Stall or No Stall?
my sequence was
-OEM 1800 & OEM 3.23 for 4 years,24.5 freeway mpg
-TCI 2800 & OEM 3.23 in 2006,24.5 freeway mpg
-TCI 2800 & 4.56 in 2007,21.5 freeway mpg
-Yank 3600 & 4.56 in 2011,21.5 freeway mpg
-Yank 3600 & OEM 3.23 in 2012,24.5 freeway mpg
Freeway mpg based on Ohio to Florida trips.
TCI2800 was loose,car would not move forward at idle. Yank SS3600 is tight,moves forward at idle,just like the OEM 1800 would/did. In normal driving,it acts like OEM 1800 except when you WANT it to act like a beast.
This is a post by a moderator on another forum,
'You have to understand.... you can drive it on the street just like a normal car. The trick is not to put the happy pedal on the floor instantaneously, or with hard street tires you may light the tires. It's not like you have a ticking time bomb that's going to sit there and rev like crazy and go nowhere... and then suddenly break the tires loose.
I have a ~3,800 stall that will flash to 5,000 rpm when the 300-shot of nitrous hits. But I drive the car on the street, and it's just like described above.... light throttle, just like stock.... more throttle, and the rpm will jump up a bit more than stock.'
Last edited by FirstYrLS1Z; Sep 6, 2014 at 07:46 AM.
Also there was virtually no detectable difference between my TCI SF3000 and my Yank SS3600 - the only one being that the Yank will flash 500 rpm higher off the line.
Also there was virtually no detectable difference between my TCI SF3000 and my Yank SS3600 - the only one being that the Yank will flash 500 rpm higher off the line.
Point is, do not short yourself on a good stall. Get a quality 3600-3800 stall and do not look back. I mainly cruise my car and still glad I went with a 3800....LS1's like higher stalls.









