Stall or No Stall?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Illinois side of STL
Stall or No Stall? So I have a 99Z with 172k miles. Its completely stock. My trans is slipping and shifts extremely hard. I plan on having it rebuilt most likely. This car is my DD, 50+ miles a day to school and back. Doesn't go to the strip at all or anything like that, just race friends every once in awhile.. Since I drive so much I would like to keep the mpg good still. so my question is, would it be beneficial to have a stall put in when I get the work done? Would it be more fun to drive?
Thanks, Brendan
Thanks, Brendan
Yes, for your goals even just a baby stall will work well.
2800-3200 would work great and keep costs down, just make sure it's one that keeps lockup and you won't lose MPG on the highway (might lose a little in town, I didn't notice much when I did mine)
2800-3200 would work great and keep costs down, just make sure it's one that keeps lockup and you won't lose MPG on the highway (might lose a little in town, I didn't notice much when I did mine)
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
IMHO, Thunderstruck's suggestion for something more in the 2800 range is a better choice for a stock engine.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Cumberland Md
Thunderstruck is right. 2800 to 3200 is probably what you wanna look at. 3600 may be a bit more than what you are looking for BUT you will enjoy a 3600 a bit more also imo.
Also as a side note you might want to take a look at some of the transmission builders here like flt or rpm. The prices for a stronger unit is about on part with what most shops usually charge just to rebuild it stock.
Also as a side note you might want to take a look at some of the transmission builders here like flt or rpm. The prices for a stronger unit is about on part with what most shops usually charge just to rebuild it stock.
old super chevy article may 2004 ls1 do's & dont's does recommend a stall i wouldn't go bigger than a circle D 3200 on a completely stock ls1. just a few minor things you should do (imo) the free egr mod, free ram air, air lid (very important!), change stock muffler to magnaflow. lca's w relo brackets & poly TA mount (budget) or new TA. traction not wheel hop. cheers!
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I guess I'm the only one that's going to say why would you mess with a trans that is going down hill like this? If you ask me it would be totally stupid to throw a stall in it without taking care of the transmission first. I say save your money for a built trans with the stall you want. This car is your DD. Is this your only car? Do you want to throw a stall in your already shitting the bed transmission to only have the trans take the new stall to hell with it? Can you say total waste? Get the trans situation straightened out first cowboy 
There ya go. Lets hope he gets the work done fist. Is that what you meant op? If so then hell yeah and the ss3600 is a great DD stall. It was even enough performance wise to get my car 11.9 stock internal and 10.9 HCI. 3600-4000 is the usual. Good luck
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Illinois side of STL
That is correct, I will be getting the trans fixed first and I figured if I am getting work done anyways may as well do a stall at the same time. I would never put the stall in a broken trans. Sorry if there was any confusion.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
There was no confusion imo. But ya stall it while you have the tranny out, you will not regret it. Yank 3600 here also
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
This is also the advice many lawyers would give you. 
Whether you would prefer a 2800 or 3600 does come down to personal preference; I was just saying that they do not drive like OEM.
In any case, I recommend you consider at least a mid quality stall ($450+) and not even bother with the under $400 stalls like a cheap TCI or Hughes. There are too many sob (not SAAB) stories here about cheap converters destructing and ruining the new trans in the process. Sponsor Circle D makes a good converter IIRC just under $500.
Whether you would prefer a 2800 or 3600 does come down to personal preference; I was just saying that they do not drive like OEM.
In any case, I recommend you consider at least a mid quality stall ($450+) and not even bother with the under $400 stalls like a cheap TCI or Hughes. There are too many sob (not SAAB) stories here about cheap converters destructing and ruining the new trans in the process. Sponsor Circle D makes a good converter IIRC just under $500.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
My thoughts are 2800-3200 if you're stock and mostly just cruising around town and on the highway. 3200-3600 with bolt-ons street/strip usage. 3600 on up for cam/heads/intake/heavy race applications.
Be prepared to lose 2mpg in city driving from stock while highway will remain the same or maybe go up 1 mpg.
Something to note is that a lot of the 2800-3000 converters are 11", while most of the 3200 and up are 9.5" 11" are heavier but have bigger clutch surface area. This is why you want a billet front cover on any 9.5" converter.
Be prepared to lose 2mpg in city driving from stock while highway will remain the same or maybe go up 1 mpg.
Something to note is that a lot of the 2800-3000 converters are 11", while most of the 3200 and up are 9.5" 11" are heavier but have bigger clutch surface area. This is why you want a billet front cover on any 9.5" converter.