No gears after rebuild
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 34
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No gears after rebuild I had my 4l60e rebuilt a few days ago and finally got it put back in my truck. I put in a quart of fluid in the torque converter before installing it because I heard that you can do that and it would be fine. After I got everything done I put in 7 quarts if fluid and cranked the truck. I walked through the gears over and over for 20 minutes and still no movement. My "service stabilitrak" and service traction control lights are on. Also my check engine light is on. It's an 07 Silverado 4x4 and my key engine start worked before I installed the tranny and now it doesn't. This was my first transmission replacement so I'm wondering if maybe it's something electrical or something easy that I'm looking over.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
First, I am assuming the shift cable is installed and the trans really is shifting...
With the engine off, the ATF level should be at least as high as the "Hot Full" line. If not, add until it is. Then try it again.
If still no movement, compare the ATF level on the dipstick with the engine off and the engine on. If it does not drop about one inch, that indicates the pump is not working.
The most common reason for a non-working pump on a re-install is that the converter was not fully seated and ruined the pump.
Did you measure that the converter was fully seated?
What distance did you measure between the converter pads and the flexplate?
With the engine off, the ATF level should be at least as high as the "Hot Full" line. If not, add until it is. Then try it again.
If still no movement, compare the ATF level on the dipstick with the engine off and the engine on. If it does not drop about one inch, that indicates the pump is not working.
The most common reason for a non-working pump on a re-install is that the converter was not fully seated and ruined the pump.
Did you measure that the converter was fully seated?
What distance did you measure between the converter pads and the flexplate?
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Ask who built your transmission, what ft/lb was the pump housing tightened too? if you over tighten the pump body to the housing the stator can't move inside the pump, thus no fluid is moving. Check all electrical and mechanical connections, and go from there. You want to rule out as many possibilities of something easy before having to tear out the whole transmission. When I first drove my rebuilt 4l60e I had to let the tranny warm up and kept adding more atf as needed. Remember when you fill up a clean tranny all the fluid is just sitting at the bottom of the pan, the fluid needs to get into all the lines and moving parts inside of the beast.
Hmm I would unhook a cooler line and start fluid should spray out but you said you put 1 quart in converter and 7 in trans that is about 3 quarts under full based on a stock diameter converter. As mentioned most common mistake is not having converter fully seated and breaking the pump.
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2014
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One thing I came across is that there is 2 rubber hoses connected to each other via a bracket and about half way down it has a small hose about 3 inches long that connects into the top of your tranny. Looks like vent hoses because the top ends of them have caps on them but my question is does the longer hose connect to the transfer case? Also I put in 7 quarts and it is about 3-4 inches above the hot mark on the dip stick, doesn't sound right to me but I don't know. I read how that happened to one guy and he called the shop and told them that his tranny wasn't working after he added 8 quarts of fluid and it read over full and they told him to keep adding more and it worked for him so I'm wondering if I should keep adding more atf fluid? How long should I let my truck run to get the fluid circulated enough?
I would stop. Unhook a cooler line and start up the car , If it sprays fluid good if not you broke the pump , I really would do that before i did anything.
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