Great, glad to hear that, from what i know the original owner told me he had a friend rebuild the trans cause it lost reverse, so i know they threw a beast sunshell and a Raybestos rebuild kit in it from the parts I've pulled out. Not sure what else, not chancing the VB cause idk how to check it
I've maybe put 6000 miles on it over ten months. I haven't found a definite issue to cause my failure so I'm a little worried haha!

I don't know if my stuff will have the pump spring, hopefully.

 

If you haven't already disassembled the input drum, measure the 3/4 clutch clearance.
Even better, perform an air test on the input drum to determine if it has any obvious leaks.
The 3/4 clutch will leak a bit through a bleed hole, but you can cover that with your finger.

I suspect the 3/4 clutch is worn out. If it was replaced 6000 miles ago you need to look for leaks. And replace the 3rd accumulator check ball cartridge.

The stock pump spring should be fine if your kits didn't have a new one.

 

Amazon has the AC Delco 3rd accumulator checkball capsule for $8.64. You need a certain size bolt, don't remember off hand, and a slide hammer (or some substitute) to remove it.

 

If this transmission is a 2002 why is the reaction shaft and beast sunshell an old 4 tab thrust washer style?

I need a new one, i guess i am going to go ahead and order the old style to avoid buying a new bearing style sunshell.

 

 

I don't think the torrington bearing style reaction shaft came out until 2003.
The newer 2003+ heat-treated GM sun shells do not have the 4 tab holes and therefore only work with the new style reaction carrier shaft.
I think that older sun shells and "The Beast" can be used with either style reaction carrier shaft.

When you say "new one", what do you want new? And why?
Your sun shell and reaction shaft should be fine.

 

It's unevenly worn just slightly i can feel it but can't catch my nail in it.

 

Also the sunshell that came out was a beast and also had the 4 tab brass washer. I figure that I'll replace this reaction shaft and the thrust washer and be good to go.

 

Couldn't source a old style reaction so I'm switching to new style with the bearing.

Also replacing all the bearings to, i figured they were bit gritty and I'd hate to blow a rebuild over a 25 dollar bearing kit.
Side note that the reverse input piston seals are a pain in the *** to get onto their bores. I've ruined my new seals! Some thin plastic shim should help funnel them down much better instead of the feeler gauge trick. Hopefully

 

There are three style of reaction carrier shafts (original, 2003+, 2008+) and you need to be sure your planet and the bearing under it are compatible with the shaft. I detail this starting in post #12 in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...n-planets.html

Very likely any new reaction carrier shaft you buy now will be the 2008+ variety. You need to verify that either the shaft or the planet will properly center the bearing.

Also, you might find this older thread useful:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...n-shell-2.html

My post #29 has a pictures showing the difference between the old and new 2003+ reaction carrier shaft from the underside.

Also my post #10 has pictures and measurements of The Beast versus the Sonnax Smart Shell.

I detail more about the different sun shells and reaction carrier shafts in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...art-shell.html

 

Here's my idea on getting the piston in the reverse input.
The material is .050 thick Teflon tape we use from work.

 

Its worth a try. I would lube the seals real well with ATF. I would test install the piston once, take it out to verify the seals are ok, lube them again and the perform the real install.
I find something called the "Lip Wizard" handy for installing pistons with seals. You turn the disk through the seal will lightly pushing down. IIRC on the reverse piston you use it on the inner seal first. Any trans shop should have dozens of Lip Wizards as some rebuild kits include them.

 

Yeah, the reverse input drum piston was by far the most difficult to get in. The other pistons either went right in or just needed a slight nudge with a feeler gauge.

I decided to go with a Circle D torque converter set at the stock stall. Great customer service and each one is made to order to your specifications. $450, was about $525 after taxes and shipping, with about a week for production.


Did you ever figure out why the 3-4 clutch pack died after only 6,000 miles? Mine had a leaky 3-4 piston. The seal had shrunk and was rock hard.

I also had a broken sun shell, but cracked high enough to where there were no symptoms. And a stuck 1-2 shift check ball.

 

Teflon film on rev. Input worked so perfect!

I found all my seals were looser than the new ones.
gritty bearings.
My bushings were shot.
3-4 fictions were real thin
Steels were burnt.
Worn rev input drum
Bad reaction shaft
Bad rear planet

bout to go put the drum in, then the pump.
And work on the valve body.

 

Dude said he lost reverse.
I gathered he put in a shell and a rebuild kit with pistons. It wasn't too bad inside really.

I'd much rather be sinking this into my ls4 gxp gosh dang it hahah crap this sucker better work!. I've been wanting hp tuners and a nice ~100 shot setup.

Got my parts today, bout to go work on this dude.

 

I finished everything and it's driving great! I've got about 15 miles on it.
It feels much better

 

Woo hoo, I just installed my transmission today too and it drives great!

Congratulations!

 

A BIG congratulations to you too!
I'm sure you are proud of your achievement.