Separator plate.

 

I just finished my first 4L60E rebuild. There is a fantastic series of videos on youtube that you can follow to meticulously go through your rebuild. He covers everything you need to know to get you through the job thoroughly and discusses in depth how to disassemble everything and inspect.


One thing you mentioned that threw up a red flag is that you used degreaser on the internal components. This could have caused rust that has resulted in seal failure. Pull the trans and watch the videos as you disassemble and reassemble the transmission per his guidance.

 

The transmissionbench videos were the same ones I used. You won't find a better rebuild video anywhere on the internet.


To the OP on replacing the 3rd accumulator checkball capsule, it's a 3/8 by 16 bolt, 4 inches long should do it if you decide to replace it. An AC Delco one is around $8-10.

 

Sp was my abreviation for spacer plate...no i did not change out the spring cage. Could that be my issue with 3rd not holding ?...i bad the suspicion that i had to change out other parts too.

 

Ok i used degreaser on the inside of the case not on the internals. I didnt put anything but air and trans fluid on the internals. I am going to change the capsule i'm just waiting for it to come in. But now i have to order the right spring cage so it'll probably be thursday or friday before that comes in and i can do anything to it.

 

Check out Cory's thread on the cage spring - when switching from an aluminum overrun piston to a bonded steel one, you definitely have to use a different cage.

 

I saw that, i suspected that when i first made the swap but when i asked the guy at the trans shop where i bought my parts, he said all i needed to change was the pistons. When i pulled it down this last time, i was convinced something else had to be changed with the pistons if only that spring cage. I tried to google "4l60e piston upgrade" and your thread about the new sonnax input drum came up so i figured this would be a good place to turn for help.

 

Is there really any benefit to using the bonded OR piston ? Would it be ok to use the 98+ 3-4 piston with the earlier forward and overrun pistons ? Just an option/ idea. It would allow me to get it back up and running sooner if i don't have to wait for another spring cage...

 

I think (not sure!) that the earlier aluminum pistons were slightly prone to cracks.
I see no problem using a new-style steel 3-4 piston with old-style Forward and Overrun pistons. Why do you ask?

Since you have looked at Cory's thread, did you use the new style spring cage? I don't think you could even assemble with the new-style piston and the old-style loose springs.


Also, what city are you in?

 

Ok i'm in Coosada Al....no i didn't change the springs. I asked the guy at the shop where i bought my parts, and he assured me that all i had to change was the pistons. I had a feeling that he was wrong when i discovered this problem wasnt fixed so i turned to google and found your thread about the sonnex input drum and figured this would be a good place to look for answers

 

Ok i went to the shop where i buy all my parts from. He cant find a part # for the 3rd accumulator check ball and the book lists the forward spring cage as 94+ and nothing for any later years.

 

The AC Delco part number for the 4l60e 3rd accumulator check valve is 8634400. Not sure why he wouldn't be able to find the part number.

 

The AC Delco part number for the updated overrun spring cage that's compatible with the updated bonded steel piston is 24206085.

 

Ok cool thanks...hey is there a good online trans parts supplier ?...i was gonna try a different place here but it got bought out n shut down, so the only other 1 is an hr and a half away.

 

Both of the parts I just listed can be found on Amazon. Free two day shipping for Prime members. One day shipping is like $5 if you're in a pinch.

Google the part number and an Amazon link should show up in the results.

 

Well i'm running a pressure check on it right now. Either my gauge is junk or this thing shouldn't be moving at all.its showing about 67lbs @ idle 80 in reverse but it jumps to about 150 when i touch the gas. And about 115 in D when i touch the gas. This is all with the e-brake set

 

Ok i took it for a ride with the gauge hooked up. The highest reading i got was about 150 which also happened to be the 2-3 gear change. It hit 150 whether 3rd held or slipped. It just dropped faster when 3rd slipped. I cannot make it go over 150 at all, either idling or driving.

 

67psi at idle in Park/Neutral is normal.
However 80 in Reverse is extremely low - the Reverse fluid circuit pushes on the Boost valve to raise the pressure. I typically see 175 psi. (However I have very little experience with other people's transmissions, just the ones I build.)
150 when you touch the gas isn't bad, just a bit low.

I suggest getting the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve ($30); it is trivial to install after dropping the pan. The larger boost valve will raise pressure and its o-rings will prevent leaks. With the pan off, I would also replace the Pressure Control Solenoid (PCS) just to be sure.

Another useful test would be remove the trans connector, if you can reach it. This will cause the trans to go into limp mode (3rd gear only) but also raises the line pressure to max.

With the Sonnax boost valve and everything working properly the max pressure will be closer to 225.

 

I was wondering about pulling the plug. I wanted to ask on here before i did it just to get all the specifics on pressure. I left the gauge hooked up so i'll try that tonight. I have the transgo .500 boost valve in it now.

 

I already replaced the PCS this last time i took it apart.