Chevy4me

First off thanks for looking at this...I'm 21 and bought my first 1998 z28 LS1 with mild cam bbk long tubes and need help...car came with bad 4l60e so I got a fresh rebuild (4l60) and bought a 3200 stall converter. After installing new trans and converter properly(2 CLICKS), I put it on jack stands and at first it wouldn't turn the wheels(in any gear). Took wheels, calipers and rotors off thinking stuck caliper pins maybe and diff turned forward with it in reverse and in neutral, but not in park(thankfully). so I'm thinking linkage and shift cable are set properly. Put wheels back on and they won't turn unless I hit 3-4 grand on tach and even then they are barely moving, maybe 10 mph before traction light comes on and throttle kicks back due to it being on stands. I overfilled it by a quart and it spit fluid out of vent so I drained some out of pan. When I run through the gears (PRND21) it feels like its not engaging any of them, except, it must be selecting them, cause wheels spin in neutral and reverse and even drive if you hit 3-4 grand on tach and stop when you put it in park. I'm concerned that the torque convertthe(brand new) is bad, or the trans I got was bad. However the driveshaft does spin I'm at a loss....I love the car but am tired of not being able to drive it...please ANYONE HELP A BROTHER OUT!!!!

im-not-guilty

iTrader: (4)

Do you got a way to check line psi?!
How about if you crack a cooler line while it's running does fluid come out ?!
How many quarts did you put in it ?

Chevy4me

1qt in converter and 12qts in dipstick then last qt went in super slow with motor running and in neutral. So I waited and checked level on stick and it was high and spitting out vent so I drained a qt. I did crack a line and it spit fluid so im not sure what is going on.

98CayenneT/A

Was the converter seated all the way for sure?

Chevy4me

Yes for sure. I made sure as I read a few threads of people not seating it and destroying the pump so i made sure if I didn't do anything else right I would at least know I didn't mess that up. It's just weird that it doesn't feel like its engaging anything running through the gears, but the wheels turn like it is. I'm calling shop I got trans from tomorrow. It's still under warranty but I don't know what else to do.

forcd ind

iTrader: (7)

I am not sure 1 qt over is going to make it spit out the vent-that and the other makes me think something int.
A pressure ck might reveal something, but first call is to who rebuilt it

mrvedit

This sounds so bad, that I would go back to the basics.
* Are you sure this 4L60E is an '98+ "LS" style and not a '95-'97 "LT" style?
* Are you sure you have an "LS" style converter?

If you are absolutely sure you installed an LS style trans and converter, then as mentioned, it is time to hookup a pressure gauge.

Stating "2 clicks" gives me pause as many people say "3 clicks"; all that is bunk because some installs don't click at all. Important is the distance between the converter pads and a straightedge over the bell housing. If the distance is less than 1", the converter is not properly installed and you might have ruined the trans pump.

Here is a quick way to check the pump:
1. Check the fluid level with the engine off; it should be about 1" above the Full line.
2. Start the engine and then check the fluid level again. It should drop by about 1" as the pump fills the converter and other trans parts. If it does not drop, you have a bad pump.

Chevy4me

Thanks I'll check, I'm pulling it tomorrow to see. If the pump is damaged will there be any visual damage without tearing into it?

jimmyg

How was clearence between torque converter and flex plate before you put bolts in? Did converter spin freely before you put bolts in? There should have been 1/16 or so of space between tc and flex plate if there was too much you need to shim tc the bolts will pull it out of trans