Ragin Cajun

Well, back on the forums to figure out whats going on with my transmission again. Its a 99 Camaro with a 4l60e. I was driving home and got on it a little to pull onto the highway and it kinda slipped it seemed, I pulled it into D and it felt like it grabbed a gear again. Then it drove alright again for a min, made it a few miles and stopped at a light, took off and it was alright but then it started slipping it felt (seemed to be 2nd gear). Once the car hit 3rd gear it was great, 4th worked great also and even locked up as usual. Came to a stop again and It would only rev up, put it in L1 and L2 and D, all act the same. You can feel the trans shift to second but it wont take off or move in 1st or 2nd gear. It rolls like normal just sitting in D. Reverse works fine also. Here is the kicker, I pulled the pan and the fluid looks great and there is not material in it, doesn't even smell burnt at all, looks brand new. Ive tried to find something on the internet of this problem but Ive found all kinds of things. One is a bad solenoid or a broke forward piston, would these make sense for the issue. Any help is much appreciated

MaroonMonsterLS1

Nothing at all in the pan? Did you look at the filter at all?

If not, typically I would suspect a bad noid. If you've already dropped the pan, check voltage on all noids and let us know what you find. 2-3 shift solenoid is probably toast. It is engaged for both 1st and 2nd gear (some people call it noid b) but off for 3 and 4. If it is stuck in the off position, you'll never get first or 2nd.

antoine

Scan it and ser if you have any codes

mrvedit

While scanning for codes should always be the first step, solenoids can also get stuck without burning out. Also, their tiny fluid filters can get clogged.

At $12 each, it just makes sense to replace both when they are more than 10 years old and you have the pan off. Even if only wanting to replace one solenoid, it is easy to mix them up when upside down under the car; so replace both.

The OP's description is a big confusing, but the suggestion to replace solenoid "B" is reasonable.

Ragin Cajun

Ive found the problem and its not what I was suspecting. I figured the solenoid was stuck as yall described to begin with. As far as I know is the solenoids have not been replaced lately. When I pulled the pan it was clear fluid with no trash so I figured mechanical failure wasn't likely. I checked the solenoids and they tested good, I didn't take them apart but I ended up getting 2 new ones for $10 each and put it in to try and see. No luck, had the same issue with the new solenoids. So I pulled the trans and tore into it and found that it flipped the forward sprag but it stayed contained inside itself, that's why I did not see any material in the pan. So It looks like a new sprag should do it

coryforsenate

iTrader: (1)

So lucky that didn't send metal everywhere. Now you have a cheap fix.

Any other things you've going to do as long as you have it open?

MaroonMonsterLS1

Somebody correct me if i'm wrong here, but, isn't the forward sprag "holding" or engaged for 1,2 and 3? If your sprag wasn't holding, 3rd gear should've had issues as well. Your 3rd was acting fine though correct?

SuperSam

iTrader: (7)

rebult.....

coryforsenate

iTrader: (1)

You're correct that the forward sprag is holding in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.

mrvedit

We've had a couple threads where it appears the sprag could hold moderate power but not full power and therefore acted intermittently.
A totally failed sprag is usually easy to diagnose, but anything intermittent is not.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Interesting. "intermittent sprag" is something i've personally never seen. Learn something new every day. Ragin Cajun I'm glad you got it figured out, while you're in there, why not upgrade to the 29 element sprag and leave the problems behind for good!

Ragin Cajun

I did get lucky with the sprag. It was a easy fix and is back together now. I did put in the bw 29 element sprag in it now so I should be good to go. I also did the hd 2-3 shift valve mod so hopefully that will help the sprag. If I understand right, that mod will keep the overrun clutches applied for 3rd now? I also put in new overrun clutches. The inner race in the sprag was scared pretty good so I did have to get whole new assy and put the bw in it.
As far as the sprag causing problems in 3rd, I had assumed it would. I do not see any way this sprag was intermittent, it was pretty messed up, so bad that when I had it in my hand I could turn it both ways very easily. So Im not real sure why 3rd worked fine. I had a guy tell me it was because the 3-4 clutches were applied. Well obliviously the 3-4 is applied in 3rd but I do not know how that relates to the sprag not holding and it still working??? Not real sure what he ment or how that makes sense.
I got it all back together last night and drove it today and it works great, I can feel a difference in 1st and 2nd like it holds a heck of a lot better.
Thanks for all the info and help

Predator T/A

iTrader: (7)

the valve will keep the overrun clutch on yes but only in the d3 position