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Looking to verify lock up slip

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Old 07-16-2017, 05:29 PM   #41
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60e drama continues.....

Pretty sure I lost the pump yesterday, no forward movement, and a nice clacking when the engine is running.

Checked for fluid drop with the engine running, which is almost zilch, but my Blazer drops right down no issue.

So the plan is to replace the pump, as I would rather not risk rebuilding it and its all chewed up inside.

Also found a crack in the weld joint on the piece of **** TCI converter too.

That being said, I plan on grabbing a pump off ebay. Anything I can stuff inside it from sonnax or whoever to fix the no-lockup issue as well?

If you already have the Trans-Go PWM delete valve......Make sure it's installed correctly, And check all the other stuff I stated earlier in the thread.

I have 100's 4L60E's out there that lock-up just fine with NO aftermarket parts whatsoever....It just takes careful inspection & attention to detail!
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:40 PM   #42
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As mentioned above, nothing special is needed to make lockup work properly.
Did the input shaft have the o-ring where it enters the converter?
Be sure to always install a new one - btw you have to remove the o-ring to remove the pump. REMEMBER the o-ring.
Most lockup problem are due to tuning and engine sensor problems; it those cases the PCM never even commands lockup.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:39 PM   #43
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I'm sorry if I ask too many questions lol, or something that might have been mentioned.

This truck stresses me the **** out. Last year the 4.8 spun some bearings, sat all summer due to heat, now half way through this summer the trans *****.

In the attachment I assume (224) is the transgo pwm delete valve?

I plan on replacing the converter due to the crack I found, if the company requires pwm operation can I just skip that part?

Does the bellhousing need to be removed for pump removal? Any special tools needed to remove the pump, or just give it a couple light taps and it will wiggle out (like my th400 does)?

I'll assume the replacement pump just needs to be an LS style, any year range more desirable than another?

Mrvedit I'm going to look for a new oring, I can't be sure there ever was one on there to begin with
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:18 PM   #44
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Nope - the PWM "delete" valve goes into the valve body. Nothing in the pump changes, although you could install the Sonnax 4L60E-LB1 boost valve for a bit higher and more consistent line pressure.

You will need a '98 thru '03 (or maybe '04) pump. Somewhere around '04 or '05 the pump seal changed to "compression fit" which is incompatible with earlier cases.

Yes, I think you need to remove the bell housing. You will need a special Torx-PLUS TP-50 bit for that. (OTC 6191)
You need to remove the TCC solenoid which is held with two 10mm-head bolts.
Then the o-ring and the 7 pump bolts and it can be pulled out - I use a large flat-head screw driver to leverage against the case from inside (just above the VB) and a big vice-grip on the outside pump housing to pull it out.

If you didn't have a o-ring on the input shaft I think that explains why you never had TCC lockup.

Last edited by mrvedit; 07-17-2017 at 07:54 AM. Reason: Correction for the pump year
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Old 07-16-2017, 10:44 PM   #45
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Just to verify parts list

Pump gasket to case
Input shaft oring
Metal clad seal ?
T50 bit (already added to amazon cart)
Pump itself, safe to assume 300mm pump?

Anything else I am missing?

Thank you again
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:53 AM   #46
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Make sure you ordered a TP50 bit, not just a T50 bit.

Since you have to remove the pan, you need a new pan gasket too.
I prefer the felt gaskets which can be reused to some extent, but probably require a relatively straight pan. (I use aluminum pans.)

Yes, it will be a 300mm pump, but an earlier one with the outer (to case) o-ring seal, NOT the compression fit, which I now see started around '04.
Therefore you also need that o-ring which is about 9" in diameter.

I have bought several pumps from ebay seller powertrainpartsplus.
The have a "4L60E-GM-Transmission-300mm-Pump-97-98-99-00-01-02-03" for sale now for $68.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:18 PM   #47
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Make sure you ordered a TP50 bit, not just a T50 bit.

Since you have to remove the pan, you need a new pan gasket too.
I prefer the felt gaskets which can be reused to some extent, but probably require a relatively straight pan. (I use aluminum pans.)

Yes, it will be a 300mm pump, but an earlier one with the outer (to case) o-ring seal, NOT the compression fit, which I now see started around '04.
Therefore you also need that o-ring which is about 9" in diameter.

I have bought several pumps from ebay seller powertrainpartsplus.
The have a "4L60E-GM-Transmission-300mm-Pump-97-98-99-00-01-02-03" for sale now for $68.
Bit is not officially ordered, but its the otc number you listed earlier, thank you.

Found a source for rubber pan gaskets that ive had good luck with on Amazon, and have one laying around with a filter as well.

Funny you mention that seller, I almost asked because the price is right for sure.

So on a later trans which im 98% I dont have, there isnt an oring around the pump?

Now what about the oring on the input shaft mentioned before? Im going to gamble that mine isnt there.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:20 PM   #48
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Correct, around '04 GM changed to a pump seal built into the case; the pump then has no o-ring.

I see "4L60E Transmission Gasket & Seal Kit" for about $25 on ebay. These should have all the gaskets you need for your project; I think but not sure, that they include the front seal to the pump.

While it shouldn't be necessary, if you decide to open the pump, let us know and we can give you guidance on what to check and how to reassemble it. (You need two foot-long hose clamps to align the halves.)
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:39 PM   #49
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I think saw similar, and looked like it had a bushing of some sort.

Where does that one go lol?
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Old 07-25-2017, 07:57 PM   #50
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Just a short update.

Pump came in, looks great. Not going to open it lol.
Gaskets and tool also came in

Started taking the truck apart, slowly, hour here and there as its hot and my patience is thin

Bit of a struggle getting the converter bolts out, in the context it didn't want to spin. Even after getting them all out, converter still clunks as it spins around. Measured converter to flex space, as I didn't know to before...... 0.29.

What are the chances with the converter being fucked, pump is fine and the excessive clearance was the issue with TCC lockup to begin with?
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Old 07-25-2017, 09:50 PM   #51
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Just a short update.

Pump came in, looks great. Not going to open it lol.
Gaskets and tool also came in

Started taking the truck apart, slowly, hour here and there as its hot and my patience is thin

Bit of a struggle getting the converter bolts out, in the context it didn't want to spin. Even after getting them all out, converter still clunks as it spins around. Measured converter to flex space, as I didn't know to before...... 0.29.

What are the chances with the converter being fucked, pump is fine and the excessive clearance was the issue with TCC lockup to begin with?
The clunking could be the pump, If the pump trashed.......Your going to have to get ALL the contaminants out of the unit/cooler/converter, If you just stab a pump in it...The possibility of a subsequent failure is VERY high!

Most rebuilt pumps I've seen have cast iron pump rings....Run them at your own risk, At the very least put some steel OEM 4L60E rings it it! Trans Go pump rings are cheap & a very good investment.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:28 AM   #52
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Opening and upgrading the pump is relatively easy.
The only "tool" you need for reassembly is two long hose clamps (e.g. for heating ducts) which together go around the circumference of the pump.
On re-assembly, after finger tightening the bolts, center the dual-hose clamp over the pump halves and tighten it. That aligns the halves and you can then tighten the bolts to 18 ft/lbs.

Here is what Clinebarger is referring to:
The Transgo 700-PKH kit includes the two hardened pump rings and the high RPM slide spring. I see it listed for under $10.
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Old 07-26-2017, 08:52 AM   #53
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Also, if not clear from Clinebarger's comment, you should disassemble the old pump to see if there is ground up metal in it. Let us know.
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