madmann26

1. On the t50 bolts, get a new t50 bit and grind a few '16ths off the bottom. There is your t50 plus.

2. For the mutilated bolt heads, take a big round punch and a BFH and apply brute force.

3. If you don't feel comfortable with #2, an air chisel should bump the heads loose.

On the converter, ouch.

Good luck.

Dave926

Welded a bolt onto the stripped one and got it out.

Pump carnage

Dave926

More pump carnage. Probably could've rebuilt it but thats alright.

Tore into the trans as well. Everything looked good. Band was good, all the clutches etc as well, except the reverse input drum. Clutches had like a coning to them and ll the steels were warpy.

I think i just want to do a basic overhaul, new clutches, beast shell and new gaskets/orings

mrvedit

A split pump rotor like that probably tore up the pump surfaces.
There probably best to just use the replacement pump as the old one is trash.

Dave926

Still going to use the new one for sure

Going to verify that there is a transgo kit in the trans and remove it. Plan is to order a Sonnax LB1 boost valve and a new separator plate as a couple of the checkball holes were fairly beat up

Dave926

new plate came in

Comparing to the old one there's a plug in one of the holes

Why is that there?

clinebarger

That's the 3rd Accumulator Feed, Blocking it will slow the Band Knock-Off on 2-3 shifts by forcing ALL 3rd Accumulator oil through the Band Release Orifice.

This may work on the smaller 553 & 554 2nd Pistons, It might have even fixed a 2-3 Flare.


I'm assuming your going to use a factory 093 or a larger aftermarket 2nd servo?

Dave926

Well, should I?

I don't mind spending money on smaller upgrades, but not a chance in hell I'll buy something like a $600 smart drum either.

Until I get stupid with the truck the 60e is staying in.

Edit

Should also note I didn't find the Transgo boost valve in the pumorning that got damaged as well

Dave926

Broke a case lug, the one right next to the clunk spring

Am I fucked, need a new case or will I be alright?

clinebarger

I would recommend a 093/Corvette 2nd piston at the very least, They are very cheap at around $20.

Dave926

what about the broken case lug?

my case otherwise seems in great shape. Capsule doesn't leak at all and the servo pin bore is nice and tight

clinebarger

Got a good picture? There are several "Case Saver" solutions.

Dave926

clinebarger

I wouldn't worry about that.

Dave926

thank you sir precisely what I wanted to hear

madmann26

Sounds like my issues with my refreshed 60e lately.

1. Started out with the bushing going bad in the tailshaft. Got that fixed.

2. Then a free rev incident on the highway going from 4-3.

3. After #2, a very inherent ratcheting sound on takeoff.

4. Pulled trans, took it to a local guy, overrun hub gone and the rear shell splayed open, started cutting a groove in the case.

Got it refreshed.

5. Got it all back together only to have a 2-3 flare above 4000rpms. No amount of tuning was fixing it.

6. TCC slip in 4th (you seem to be familiar with this one). Not tune related.

Now, this is where I shoot myself in foot. After the trans came out, the converter was sent back to FTI for a cut/clean/restall.

Not realizing that converter stall played into the VB hole size, I had FTI restall it from a 3000 to a 3800 hard-hit (SRLS converter).

Got it all back together, shift flare, TCC slip in 4th. Sound familiar?

I ended up pulling the VB out and drilling a new separator plate with some suggested hole sizes for a 9.5" converter.

It's fixed. No flare when it shifts at commanded rpm and my TCC slip issue is gone.

Just a few thoughts. It all sounds so familiar. Now the converter issue that you have/had, not related. LOL.

Dave926

Found a corvette servi last night just look through my parts

I never really checked my commanded vs actual shifts but I can say it never tapped the limiter despite the wot rpm and redline being very close

Dave926

Still trucking along slowly
Started putting my 3-4 stack together and was like wow, this clearance is a little snug but not bad (0.028ish)

But something didn't seem right with the apply plate, I'm assuming from the crap pictures on google this is reminants from the Z-pak already in there. Measured the clearance with the old zpak in there, clearance was kind of sloppy around .062

That being said my rebuild kit (transtar) came with a 7 stack bw hienergy. Any suggestions on apply plate and retainer plate thickness? I know the general concensus is to run an 8stack clutch kit, but I would like to keep cost from spiraling out of control any more than it already has

Dave926

I'm going to say that an hd2 kit was never installed in this trans, at all

How I found my 1-2 accum and what should be the pwm delete valve that's not there

Fogired out it had a B&M Shift Improver kit after accidentally coming across references from other users.