98CayenneT/A

What problems would a tore o ring on the boost valve cause ?

mrvedit

The Reverse signal comes in between those two o-rings; therefore you may not get much boost in Reverse, which might cause the reverse clutches to slip.
Did yours not come with that o-ring? Perhaps Sonnax would be kind enough to send you another one.

98CayenneT/A

Yes it did have one. This is about how much was missing.

joecar

Where's the rest of it...?

98CayenneT/A

That I don't know. Pulled the pump apart and did not find it anywhere.

mrvedit

I recall one of the pros here stating that a wear-ridge in the boost valve bore could cut the o-rings. So the missing part might have ended up in the pan and they hopefully the filter.

98CayenneT/A

Anyone have any thoughts on cryo treating stock input and output shafts?

coryforsenate

iTrader: (1)

If I recall, one was more prone to failure than the other and was recommended for high hp applications, with the other being a good upgrade but perhaps gilding the lily in most cases. But I can't recall which one was which.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Where do you want to get it done and at what cost? For me, its a cost vs gain comparison. If you're to the point where you're going to break a stock input shaft on a launch, you're going to have a hard time keeping a band and 3/4's in it anyway. It can be done...lots of corvette guys have no other option.

98CayenneT/A

I have a place local to me that does it but I have no idea what it cost or if they would even do it. I came across a thread that mentioned it but it did not go into detail then the wheels started turning and figured I would look into it.

I don't know what the breaking point is for the stock input and output shafts. I've ran 11.2's with 1.56 60's @122 mph and am probably looking at low 1.5x 60's this season at around 3500 lbs. with me in the car this season.

I won't be adding anymore power so if it's a non issue I won't worry about it but if it's something worth doing I figured what the hell..... depending on cost.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Personally I wouldn't bother anywhere even in your ballpark of power.

Most places typically upgrade output shaft before input shaft also. But I don't think it's any issue for you

98CayenneT/A

Thoughts on the TransGo 3-4 air bleed orifice or just leave the stock check ball in place? I will be drilling the 3rd apply feed hole bigger and car sees 7000 rpms.

98CayenneT/A

Think I found my answer in a previous thread posted by Mrvedit.

"I pulled the trans a year later to install a billet output shaft and checked the 3/4 clutch. The clearance had expanded to .110" !!
Granted I made daily WOT 4-2 downshifts which are particularly hard on the clutch.
Checking with Chuck @FLT, he thought that using the Transgo 3/4 "bleed orifice" instead of the stock check-ball capsule was my problem"

98CayenneT/A

Could I do this by getting a way stiff spring at the hardware store? If not how would I go about this?

MaroonMonsterLS1

Blocking the valve could be done with a piece of copper pipe if you wanted (people used to block the 1-2 shift valve on a powerglide this way to avoid automatic upshifts...but that's a topic for another day haha). Just make sure it fits the bore and cut to length. That's all the tight wound spring is doing...being a spacer.

98CayenneT/A

Installed half the springs in the 3-4 and forward/ overrun spring cages. Why does the forward/ overrun cage need to be so stiff especially considering the forwards are always on when in D

mrvedit

As MaroonMonster said, the output shaft is more likely to break than the input shaft due to the torque multiplication.
IMHO a common and often overlooked failure point is looseness between the input shaft and the input drum. Hence the Sonnax input drum reinforcement ring should be considered essential. IIRC you are doing that anyway.

Glad you found my post about leaving the input drum's check ball.
And blocking the 3-2 downshift valve shouldn't be too hard.

98CayenneT/A

Got my brand new oem reverse input drum from trutech. Should I swap out the babbitt bushings for teflon bushings or roll with the babbitt's ?

MaroonMonsterLS1

New drum with new bushings. I would leave it alone.
My experience shows an incredibly low failure rate with even high mileage oem bushings.

I think there more risk of scoring the bore trying to remove them, or not driving them square when installing them than there is of stock failing.

98CayenneT/A

Sounds good, ya, there was little to no ware on my previous reverse input drum with bronze bushings especially compared to other bushings that seem to be higher ware areas.

Thanks