When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That doesn't look very bad at all, But without inspecting it myself...It's difficult to give a 100% go ahead. Always replace both Stator Bushings!
The Updated design uses a Billet Overrun Piston so it is compatible with a Steel Forward Piston.
The Old design uses a Factory Cast Aluminum Overrun Piston that is machined to fit over the Sleeve. It is cheaper to modify a used factory part than to machine a new part from Billet Aluminum.
Have you actually found an older version of this kit....Sonnax no longer makes it. Though surely some of them are still on the shelf.
Ok, I will bring the input drum and shaft to work tomorrow and give you exact measurements of shaft wear at certain points around where the arrow was pointing. Or should I just have it inspected by someone in person?
Ok, I will bring the input drum and shaft to work tomorrow and give you exact measurements of shaft wear at certain points around where the arrow was pointing. Or should I just have it inspected by someone in person?
Alrighty, after measuring the input shaft, the wear variance did not measure as much as it felt. What do you think...... The colored dots correspond with my measuring points. Red .998" - 1 Purple .998" Lt Blue .997" - .998" Dk Blue .996" - .997" Green 1 Yellow 1
Alrighty, after measuring the input shaft, the wear variance did not measure as much as it felt. What do you think...... The colored dots correspond with my measuring points. Red .998" - 1 Purple .998" Lt Blue .997" - .998" Dk Blue .996" - .997" Green 1 Yellow 1
Not enough wear to worry about, Clean that area up with some "Fine" Red Scotch-Brite, Replace Both stator support bushings.
Front, Clevite# 03026, Wide .665" vs .500" on the stock bushing. Do Not run it into the "Step" in the Stator Tube, It will damage the bushing. Set it Flush to slightly below flush.
Rear, Sonnax# 77002BT-01, Teflon Coated. I "Part" this Bushing to remove it.
Using a Cape Chisel, Carefully tap one side of the bushing down, This will **** the bushing in it's bore & open a space 180 degrees from where you tapped it down. At that space, Take the Chisel at a 45 degree angle & bend the bushing inward 'til it releases.
Test fit on the Input Shaft to make sure neither bushing is too tight.
A pic to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
Wide Front Bushing installed.
Stock Compared to Wide.
Rear Bushing installed, Not a Teflon bushing for this mild build.
Last edited by clinebarger; 03-21-2016 at 09:56 PM.
Almost forgot, Check the inner "Sleeve" in the Stator Support for damage from loose bushings causing the Input Shaft sealing ring lands to contact the sleeve.
Ok, thanks much for the picture, they will be a big help. I will order the bushings up.
I will also inspect the inner sleeve on the stator support.
I should have parts rolling in threw the week and will be able to get going on assembling the input drum.
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; 03-21-2016 at 09:51 PM.
Parts will be trickling in all week. That billet forward piston is almost to pretty to use lol. And that forward dual cage sprag is a really nice piece.
I was going over a few things and saw I also have the sonnax 2-3 shift valve with the 1/8 in. hole drilled threw the VB wall.
Is it weird I'm having a blast during this rebuild....lol
Thanks for the patience guys
The stock trans does have a checkball there for the low/reverse clutch. Some mechanics remove it so that Reverse engages faster.
The purpose of most checkballs is to slow down how fast a clutch engages - the checkball closes and the apply fluid then has to go through a small hole in the separator plate. When the apply fluid is released to release the clutch, the checkball opens so that the clutch fluid can quickly drain.
Is there supposed to be a thrust bearing on the bottom of the sun shell pointed out in the picture below? I would of swore it went there.... And that copper thrust washer goes on the inside correct?
Or does the copper thrust washer go on the top of the subshell and the thrust bearing goes between the sun shell and reaction shaft?
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; 03-31-2016 at 04:10 PM.
The Thrust Washer goes on the other side of the Sunshell, The Thrust Bearing goes on the side you have shown.......Just like you have it in the pic!! Don't install it upside down!! (Inside rolled edge goes toward Shell, Outside rolled edge faces away from the Shell.
The Thrust Washer goes on the other side of the Sunshell, The Thrust Bearing goes on the side you have shown.......Just like you have it in the pic!! Don't install it upside down!! (Inside rolled edge goes toward Shell, Outside rolled edge faces away from the Shell.
Ok, thanks.
Got a bit done today, struggled a bit getting that snap ring on for the low reverse piston return spring. There are definitely some sharp edges in the case lol ouch.
Question about the reverse input drum piston..... After replacing the piston lip seals and struggling a bit to guide it back into the drum I nicked the outer lip seal a tit and was wondering if I should buy new ones. My uneducated opinion says the two nicks will be fine but wondering if any little flaw is a problem waiting to happen.
I don't ever go into 4th wot or find it necessary on the street. But at power cruise on the road course it would be nice to whined it up a little more. What would be necessary upgrades to make 4th wot "less damaging" ?
Yank ss3600 and 3.73's I run out of gear around 130 mph.
For better 4th WOT operation, add a billet 4th gear servo piston.
Might be even better add both the 2nd and 4th gear billet pistons - the Sonnax ones will cost about $150 for both.
03-20-2016, 07:56 PM
