What else is necessary with a stall?
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Maryland
Thanks for all the great advice everyone! I talked to the shop today that I'm having do the install/tune and they said all they recommend is the stall and a decent cooler. I think for now I will do this with a flexplate and trans temp gauge and call it a day. Should have it in and tuned by early next month, can't wait.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Maryland
Hey all, just wanted to update I just got my car back from its converter install and tune and man what a difference, I wish I had done this a long time ago! The looseness when not in lockup makes it way more fun to drive and it pulls much harder.
Went with the SS3600, B&M 70264 and Autometer digital trans temp gauge. Very happy, other than the fact that I can't hook!
Went with the SS3600, B&M 70264 and Autometer digital trans temp gauge. Very happy, other than the fact that I can't hook!
Awesome to hear that. My SS3600 shipped last week and I'm excited about getting it installed. I also install the 70264 and it made a huge difference in temps even with the stock converter. What drag radials are you thinking about? I'm looking hard at the Toyo TQ on stock 10 spoke. Also, look at getting a TA or LPW girdle to help prolong the 10 bolts life. 
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From: Maryland
Awesome to hear that. My SS3600 shipped last week and I'm excited about getting it installed. I also install the 70264 and it made a huge difference in temps even with the stock converter. What drag radials are you thinking about? I'm looking hard at the Toyo TQ on stock 10 spoke. Also, look at getting a TA or LPW girdle to help prolong the 10 bolts life.
I was actually thinking about doing Toyo R888's, possibly all around on my 10 spokes. I may look into that girdle. Although I always thought with an A4 the rear isn't too big of a concern.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I went for many seasons running 1.6x 60-foots on the stock 3.23 10-bolt with a 3500 stall, drag radials, lots of spirited street driving plus track time, and then eventually more power as well. I had no issues with the rear under those conditions - and that's pretty typical.
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Verdad Gallardo Man I'm telling you, you're going to love the way your car drives. However if your exhaust is loud expect a lot of attention! Cooler is good so far, highest I've seen it get to is like low 180s on some twisty backroads and that seems to be within normal operating temp.
I was actually thinking about doing Toyo R888's, possibly all around on my 10 spokes. I may look into that girdle. Although I always thought with an A4 the rear isn't too big of a concern.
I was actually thinking about doing Toyo R888's, possibly all around on my 10 spokes. I may look into that girdle. Although I always thought with an A4 the rear isn't too big of a concern.
Toyo R888's will be a better road tire from what I've read. My car is more of a cruiser and I want full advantage DR's for the lowest ET without going all the way to MT's.
I went for many seasons running 1.6x 60-foots on the stock 3.23 10-bolt with a 3500 stall, drag radials, lots of spirited street driving plus track time, and then eventually more power as well. I had no issues with the rear under those conditions - and that's pretty typical.
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From: Maryland
If it's a healthy stock rear, I wouldn't worry much at stockish power levels for street use. If you live at the drag strip on sticky tires, if the rear end is tired/poorly maintained, if you make a ton of power, and/or any combination of the above, then you'd have some cause for concern. Now that's not to say that some A4 cars haven't dumped the stock rear in freakish moments of failure that "shouldn't have happened", but those are the exception rather than the rule.
I went for many seasons running 1.6x 60-foots on the stock 3.23 10-bolt with a 3500 stall, drag radials, lots of spirited street driving plus track time, and then eventually more power as well. I had no issues with the rear under those conditions - and that's pretty typical.
I went for many seasons running 1.6x 60-foots on the stock 3.23 10-bolt with a 3500 stall, drag radials, lots of spirited street driving plus track time, and then eventually more power as well. I had no issues with the rear under those conditions - and that's pretty typical.
Awesome to hear that. That is certainly what folks say about a stall. My exhaust is Blackheart true duals so its fairly modest. Is this your first stalled car? It will be mine and all I have to go on is what folks are say on line and of course watching a few youtube vids.
Toyo R888's will be a better road tire from what I've read. My car is more of a cruiser and I want full advantage DR's for the lowest ET without going all the way to MT's.
Toyo R888's will be a better road tire from what I've read. My car is more of a cruiser and I want full advantage DR's for the lowest ET without going all the way to MT's.
That's what I've been reading also, what kind of DR's are you looking at? I'm also considering a set if I don't get the R888's but I hate to sacrifice cornering ability and I know this is an insignificant thing but I think those Toyo's are going to look awesome on my 10 spokes!
Yeah this is my first stalled car, as weird as it sounds the engagement that you get is almost like having a manual trans to me, totally transforms the way the car drives.
That's what I've been reading also, what kind of DR's are you looking at? I'm also considering a set if I don't get the R888's but I hate to sacrifice cornering ability and I know this is an insignificant thing but I think those Toyo's are going to look awesome on my 10 spokes!
That's what I've been reading also, what kind of DR's are you looking at? I'm also considering a set if I don't get the R888's but I hate to sacrifice cornering ability and I know this is an insignificant thing but I think those Toyo's are going to look awesome on my 10 spokes!
I'm looking at Toyo TQ's and pretty sure that's the tire I'm going with. My car is not a DD and I feel that the TQ's (and NT05r's) are a good balance for my needs.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I don't know anything about the Toyo TQs and have never seen them used at a drag strip. Looking up their specs, Toyo lists their tread life as 4.5 out of 5. That makes me suspect they aren't a real R-compound drag radial:
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...g-radial-tires
Here is my experience:
15" M/T 15" ET Street drag radials - best for traction, but horrible high speed and cornering stability. Extremely fast wearing - might get 3000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 555R - excellent high speed and cornering stability, much better than a street tire at the drag strip, but not close to the M/T. Decent wearing - might get 10,000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 05R - excellent hight speed and cornering stability, traction close to the M/T at the drag strip, but not equal. Fast wearing - might get 5000 miles on the street.
There are my preferred tires for DD.
Since I am also looking into road course racing my Camaro, I installed the fancy Detroit Speed (DSE) Quadralink rear suspension and upgraded the rear to a Ford 9" and big disk brakes. For that I bought a set of 18" BGF G-Force Comp-2; while they handle well, I honestly cannot tell much difference in handling between those and the NT-05R; I never dare go WOT with the BFGs. Hene the NT-05R are my preferred tire.
I find that 40-50 drag strip runs pretty much wear out the M/T or the NT05R; even if they have thread left the many heat cycles have degraded the rubber.
https://www.toyotires.com/tire/patte...g-radial-tires
Here is my experience:
15" M/T 15" ET Street drag radials - best for traction, but horrible high speed and cornering stability. Extremely fast wearing - might get 3000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 555R - excellent high speed and cornering stability, much better than a street tire at the drag strip, but not close to the M/T. Decent wearing - might get 10,000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 05R - excellent hight speed and cornering stability, traction close to the M/T at the drag strip, but not equal. Fast wearing - might get 5000 miles on the street.
There are my preferred tires for DD.
Since I am also looking into road course racing my Camaro, I installed the fancy Detroit Speed (DSE) Quadralink rear suspension and upgraded the rear to a Ford 9" and big disk brakes. For that I bought a set of 18" BGF G-Force Comp-2; while they handle well, I honestly cannot tell much difference in handling between those and the NT-05R; I never dare go WOT with the BFGs. Hene the NT-05R are my preferred tire.
I find that 40-50 drag strip runs pretty much wear out the M/T or the NT05R; even if they have thread left the many heat cycles have degraded the rubber.
Last edited by mrvedit; Aug 15, 2016 at 09:21 PM.
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From: White Bear, Mn
I don't know anything about the Toyo TQs and have never seen them used at a drag strip. Looking up their specs, Toyo lists their tread life as 4.5 out of 5. That makes me suspect they aren't a real R-compound drag radial.
Here is my experience:
15" M/T 15" ET Street drag radials - best for traction, but horrible high speed and cornering stability. Extremely fast wearing - might get 3000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 555R - excellent high speed and cornering stability, much better than a street tire at the drag strip, but not close to the M/T. Decent wearing - might get 10,000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 05R - excellent hight speed and cornering stability, traction close to the M/T at the drag strip, but not equal. Fast wearing - might get 5000 miles on the street.
There are my preferred tires for DD.
Since I am also looking into road course racing my Camaro, I installed the fancy Detroit Speed (DSE) Quadralink rear suspension and upgraded the rear to a Ford 9" and big disk brakes. For that I bought a set of 18" BGF G-Force Comp-2; while they handle well, I honestly cannot tell much difference in handling between those and the NT-05R; I never dare go WOT with the BFGs. Hene the NT-05R are my preferred tire.
I find that 40-50 drag strip runs pretty much wear out the M/T or the NT05R; even if they have thread left the many heat cycles have degraded the rubber.
Here is my experience:
15" M/T 15" ET Street drag radials - best for traction, but horrible high speed and cornering stability. Extremely fast wearing - might get 3000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 555R - excellent high speed and cornering stability, much better than a street tire at the drag strip, but not close to the M/T. Decent wearing - might get 10,000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 05R - excellent hight speed and cornering stability, traction close to the M/T at the drag strip, but not equal. Fast wearing - might get 5000 miles on the street.
There are my preferred tires for DD.
Since I am also looking into road course racing my Camaro, I installed the fancy Detroit Speed (DSE) Quadralink rear suspension and upgraded the rear to a Ford 9" and big disk brakes. For that I bought a set of 18" BGF G-Force Comp-2; while they handle well, I honestly cannot tell much difference in handling between those and the NT-05R; I never dare go WOT with the BFGs. Hene the NT-05R are my preferred tire.
I find that 40-50 drag strip runs pretty much wear out the M/T or the NT05R; even if they have thread left the many heat cycles have degraded the rubber.
I did not like the anemic 555r.
I got about 7,000 miles out of my Mt et with about 50-60 track passes with a smokey burnout on each pass.
I got about 10,000 mi. out of my nt05r with probably 100 passes on them. The nt05r is a very very good all around radial imo especially for something that sees a lot of street miles.
The mickeys are definitely better at the track and less finicky to get to hook than the nt05r but don't last as long or handle as well.
With that said, mickey 275 from here on out for me but I'm also not putting down a ton of power
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I don't know anything about the Toyo TQs and have never seen them used at a drag strip. Looking up their specs, Toyo lists their tread life as 4.5 out of 5. That makes me suspect they aren't a real R-compound drag radial.
15" M/T 15" ET Street drag radials - best for traction, but horrible high speed and cornering stability. Extremely fast wearing - might get 3000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 555R - excellent high speed and cornering stability, much better than a street tire at the drag strip, but not close to the M/T. Decent wearing - might get 10,000 miles on the street.
.
15" M/T 15" ET Street drag radials - best for traction, but horrible high speed and cornering stability. Extremely fast wearing - might get 3000 miles on the street.
17" Nitto NT 555R - excellent high speed and cornering stability, much better than a street tire at the drag strip, but not close to the M/T. Decent wearing - might get 10,000 miles on the street.
.
I agree with Ted above on the MT DR's and Nitto 555R's. I've had great success hooking with them at the track but I consider them a track only tire for the reasons he mentions. I never had any success trying to hook with the 555R's but they were a good sticky street tire. What I didn't like is that they're really skinny for their size and they didn't like cold weather. The TOYO's didn't seem to mind and performed well year round.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Great that RevGTO has years of experience with the Toyo tires and could compare them to most of the tires I listed.
My 17" Nitto NT05R seem to be worn out based on slipping on the track; I haven't decided whether to try the new style M/T or another set of NT05R.
My 17" Nitto NT05R seem to be worn out based on slipping on the track; I haven't decided whether to try the new style M/T or another set of NT05R.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
I absolutely agree with Ted.
This aspect, "shift extension" (the rpm to which engine speed will drop after an upshift), is about 50% of the benefit of an optimized stall speed. It's not just about launch. The optimized stall speed will also eliminate or greatly reduce WOT "dead spots" (speeds at which the trans is unable to downshift to a low enough gear to get engine speed up quickly), such as that 30-40mph range for a 3.23 A4 car. With the higher stall, even though it's still downshifting to the same gear, engine speed will instantly jump much, much higher (putting you in the powerband) than with the stock converter.
This aspect, "shift extension" (the rpm to which engine speed will drop after an upshift), is about 50% of the benefit of an optimized stall speed. It's not just about launch. The optimized stall speed will also eliminate or greatly reduce WOT "dead spots" (speeds at which the trans is unable to downshift to a low enough gear to get engine speed up quickly), such as that 30-40mph range for a 3.23 A4 car. With the higher stall, even though it's still downshifting to the same gear, engine speed will instantly jump much, much higher (putting you in the powerband) than with the stock converter.
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 238
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From: Hillsdale, MI
I'm currently running 255 Toyo TQ on stock 16's. SS4000 and multiple low 1.6 60' times. For the price and performance, I can't complain. You will need a good burn out and stiff shock to get the weight on them for a good 60'.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11-second...1-113-5-a.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/11-second...1-113-5-a.html