Gentlemen, after further discussion with Circle D rep. Chris, I am persuaded to use a 3600 stall. Chris mentioned it might be too loose for my liking, however 373's would help cure that effect. Due to 373's and 390's are similar, would there be a noticeable worthwhile difference from 323 to 390, with a 3600 stall ?

 

I would personally either keep the stock gears or jump to a 4.10 if you are insistent on changing ratios and want to see a difference that is actually worth the cost/hassle/potential downsides. Of course there are MPG and additional engine wear concerns with such a numerically high ratio and a 0.70 OD if you spend a lot of time on the expressway at high speeds. But the same would mostly be true of 3.90s. And 3.23 to 3.73 just doesn't have much performance benefit for an optimized stall speed, unless you really are super bothered by the looseness.

I don't think the stall will be too loose though. It's all subjective, but even 2.73s feel fine with a top shelf 3600 stall IMO. With 3.23s it will feel as natural as stock to most people after a week or two of driving. Give it a chance before making any decision on gears, IMO.

 

Ok, thanks for your advice. After this much conversation, I assume their is enough agreement that a 3600 stall from Circle D is worthy of being rated top shelf. I think the converter is $900.

 

Here is my experience with different rear gear ratios and a high stall converter (ss4000). I started out with 2.73's and the car would be at 2200 rpms part throttle take off from a stop which felt really loose to me and I didn't like to drive the car around town. I then swapped in a 3.42 rear and it dropped to 1800 rpms. This was much better and I drove the car more. I now have 3.73's (8.8 swap) and part throttle take off is around 1500. The car now pulls forward when I let off the brake without giving it gas. This is just for reference as I'm sure a 3600 stall would be tighter and probably give a decent driving experience with a stock 3.23/3.42 rear and an almost identical part throttle experience to stock with 3.73+.

 

I just had my Yank SS3600 installed yesterday in my 00 SS (3.23 gears). I have never driven a stalled vehicle before. I haven't done any WOT yet due to Yank's break in procedure. But I can tell you that when I put the car in drive, it starts moving. It does take a bit of more gas to get the car moving quickly, but not bad at all. I do like how the car drives. So far, I have no regrets about getting the 3600 and I haven't even been able to feel the benefits yet. There is a whole thread that I started about PTC trying to talk me into a lower stall. My friends on here got me straightend out and got me to order a higher stall. I would go with the 3600 from Yank, Circle D or FTI. My Yank was $830 shipped to my door. FTI will be just south of $800 delivered if you call them. I'm sure the Circle D will be great too. I hope this helps.

 

Ok. Good to know. From what I have read on other post here, the stall STR is a contributing factor for the perceived " looseness " of the 3600 stall convertor. From what I understand, an STR of 1.8 to 2.1 would make the converter seem " tight ", while higher STR, such as 2.5 would make the converter seem " loose ". Does anyone with a 3200 to 4000 stall know what STR their converter has, and what their preferences would be ?

 

It's actually the other way around.

 

Actually my understanding is that trex600450 is correct, but it kinds depends upon your definition of "tight" and "loose".

"STR" refers to torque multiplication. Generally the higher the STR, the narrower the range of RPM during which torque multiplication takes place.
So while a high STR might be 2.5 at 3600, that converter might have an STR of only 0.6 at 1800 RPM, making it feel "loose" for the street.
In contrast while a low STR might be only 1.8 at 3600, that converter might have an STR of 1.0 at 1800 RPM, making it feel "tight" for the street.
So while a high STR will feel strong (tight?) near its stall speed, it will feel sloppy at low RPM.

Here is a more detailed explanation of it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...str-guide.html

Having spoken to some of our sponsors, they don't want to advertise an STR because they don't have the million dollar machines need to accurately measure it.

 

My Yank SS3600, 323's, X2 cam, bolt ons is a pretty F***n fun car!! and I own 4... lol
I'll be stalling my 04 GTO soon... Prolly a Yank SS3200...

 

I agree. I was in search of a lower STR stall so it would feel a bit on the stock side at lower RPM. The Yanks SS3600 is around 2.1. But my understanding is that STR is relative to HP and TQ. For instance, if my SS3600 will stall at 3500 in my 360/360 car that weighs 3400 lbs with 3.23's, it will stall a bit higher if I increased my HP/TQ.

 

trex600450 has started a new thread to discuss the meaning of STR:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-opinions.html

So, please continue on this thread only if want to post general questions/comments related to the original topic of "What else is needed for a stall".

If you want to discuss STR and converter theory, please continue with the other thread above.

 

I definitely see your point Ted, and I posted my personal experience that led to my conclusion in the other thread. You may be right that it's simply a matter of where "looseness" is being perceived/defined by the driver, which will also be a product of driving habits.