Can this 4l80e planetary be saved?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 80
Likes: 1
Can this 4l80e planetary be saved? Hey everyone. I am doing my first rebuild on a 4L80e. I bought the core for $150 and it was sitting in the back of a 2004 Chevy Express 2500 van.
The fluid was very black and there was lots of clutch material in the pan as well as some little pieces from the thrust washer on the rear planetary.
Upon disassembly I found that the direct clutches were pretty much gone and the one thrust washer on the planetary was chewed up and it looks like the rivet fell apart that holds the pin and bushing in.
It looks like the direct clutches are a common wear item for these.
I am having a struggle here on rebuild kits and shift calibration. Deep down I want to just get Jake's stage 2 kit and be done. But I also don't want to throw a ton of money at it.
Not sure about doing a full rebuild kit on it and going with the Transgo HD2 kit.
Seems like most people prefer the OEM/BW clutches.
Care to twist my arm in either or other directions? All the other clutches looked great in the trans. I am guessing it was just driven hard and had a bunch of miles on it causing the direct to get burned up. (dual feeding should fix this when I rebuild correct?) Any ideas on why the planetary failed? It looks like it might have been replaced previously. Maybe was not done correctly.
This will be going behind a 5.3L with a turbo. Maybe 600whp in an older s10.
Thanks,
Shane
**EDIT**
Does anyone know what the factory "high" stall converters are good for stall wise and hp?
Looking to run a rebuilt one.
Google tells me around 2200-2500 and 600ish hp.
The fluid was very black and there was lots of clutch material in the pan as well as some little pieces from the thrust washer on the rear planetary.
Upon disassembly I found that the direct clutches were pretty much gone and the one thrust washer on the planetary was chewed up and it looks like the rivet fell apart that holds the pin and bushing in.
It looks like the direct clutches are a common wear item for these.
I am having a struggle here on rebuild kits and shift calibration. Deep down I want to just get Jake's stage 2 kit and be done. But I also don't want to throw a ton of money at it.
Not sure about doing a full rebuild kit on it and going with the Transgo HD2 kit.
Seems like most people prefer the OEM/BW clutches.
Care to twist my arm in either or other directions? All the other clutches looked great in the trans. I am guessing it was just driven hard and had a bunch of miles on it causing the direct to get burned up. (dual feeding should fix this when I rebuild correct?) Any ideas on why the planetary failed? It looks like it might have been replaced previously. Maybe was not done correctly.
This will be going behind a 5.3L with a turbo. Maybe 600whp in an older s10.
Thanks,
Shane
**EDIT**
Does anyone know what the factory "high" stall converters are good for stall wise and hp?
Looking to run a rebuilt one.
Google tells me around 2200-2500 and 600ish hp.
Last edited by zildjian4life218; Jul 6, 2016 at 11:26 AM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 33
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Nope, That Output Carrier is junk! Even if it could be "saved" you most likely don't have the equipment too rebuild one.
You don't need a HD2 shift kit to dual feed the directs, And you can buy a HD Intermediate Snap Ring & High Rate Direct Return Springs separately, Use an Aluminum TH400 Direct Piston with High Rate Springs....At least that is what I like to do.
You don't need a HD2 shift kit to dual feed the directs, And you can buy a HD Intermediate Snap Ring & High Rate Direct Return Springs separately, Use an Aluminum TH400 Direct Piston with High Rate Springs....At least that is what I like to do.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 80
Likes: 1
Looks like I have a bunch of other parts that are going to need to be replaced. That bushing fell out of the sun gear shaft. I will have to take a trip down to my local trans shop and see what parts i can get.
Any idea what would have cause this?
Any idea what would have cause this?
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
related question: the color change on his hard parts, indicates that some of them (all of them?) got pretty hot. Does that mean automatic replacement? Context is a stock rebuild or a rebuild for durability/towing/HD truck application.
Zildjian - make a list of stuff you're replacing, I may have some of the stuff you need.
Zildjian - make a list of stuff you're replacing, I may have some of the stuff you need.
Trending Topics
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 33
From: Fort Worth, Texas
related question: the color change on his hard parts, indicates that some of them (all of them?) got pretty hot. Does that mean automatic replacement? Context is a stock rebuild or a rebuild for durability/towing/HD truck application.
Zildjian - make a list of stuff you're replacing, I may have some of the stuff you need.
Zildjian - make a list of stuff you're replacing, I may have some of the stuff you need.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Teching In
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Savannah, GA
I was talking about the brownish coloring on the reluctor surface of the forward drum. I see what you're referring to, the blued spots - I've assumed that was heat treat, but I'm glad I know now. that brownish color though, does that go away once they're cleaned up? I definitely have a few parts in one of my cores that look like that and I'm not sure if it's ok to reuse them. I'll post photos in a little bit.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 33
From: Fort Worth, Texas
Forward Clutch Burn-Up is very common on 4L80E's, The brownish coating is from the burnt Friction Material getting slung out of the drum, A Red Scothbrite pad will take that off easily, The inside of the Drum is a little tougher, I Media Blast that...........Check the Sealing Ring surfaces on the Drum for damage! You can Machine the Drum for larger Sealing Rings, Or machine it for a Repair Sleeve.
The OD Carrier Ring Gear that's made into the Forward Drum is Heat Treated, So the discoloring in that area is normal.
The OD Carrier Ring Gear that's made into the Forward Drum is Heat Treated, So the discoloring in that area is normal.