AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Changing my transmission soon along with my converter and flexplate. Do you guys recommend using thread locker and if so which one? Checking what is available on Amazon and I don't see anything that seems ideal. The applications listed are either for small engines or oil pans or something else that seems not quite right.... confusing.

I used the regular loc-tite when I did the gears and diff in my truck and the bolts all walked, some sheared off. Pretty PO'd that I had to pull the rear apart twice, and now I'm super unsure of what to use.

And do you guys torque these components when you install or just tighten them really snug and call it good? Thanks for any help.

Circle-D_Brian

We typically recommend a bit of blue loc tite and around 45 foot lbs. Seems to work great.

-Brian

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

This stuff Brian?

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-...words=loc+tite

Do you include it with your converters? (That is what is going in it)

Use it on the flexplate bolts as well?

Circle-D_Brian

That's the stuff. We include loctite, shims and 10.9 grade bolts with all of our converters. For the crank, the factory 10.9 grade bolts have some sort of compound already. No need for loctite there in my opinion.

-Brian

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Great. I'm getting a list of things together for the install and did not remember if you included it or not, but if you do then I'm straight because the new converter is sitting in my basement. Still a little weirded out by my differential situation, but maybe I didn't torque those bolts enough, or loc-tite doesn't like to be submerged quickly.

Any input on torquing everything down or not?

Appreciate the help!

Circle-D_Brian

Not sure what happened on the rear end. Just go 45 pounds on the converter bolts and closer to 75 on the crank bolts and you should be good to go. There's some cheap flex plate/flywheel holding tools for LS engines on ebay. We have used these to help hold everything still while you torque it down. Good luck!

-Brian

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Cool. Like this guy? What exactly is it bolted to?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-2-3-LSX-...264029&vxp=mtr

Circle-D_Brian

Exactly. It bolts in place of the starter temporarily.

-Brian

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

I'm wondering if something like this guy wouldn't be a better choice. Could use it later down the road for turning flywheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...l+turning+tool

mrvedit

In my opinion NO. Since it only holds the flexplate/flywheel with a single tooth, it can break that tooth off. Also you still have to hold it. The suggested tool holds with about 4 teeth and bolts in. I have one and its great for all kinds of work on LS engines, especially torquing the front balancer.

Cajun ELESS-ONE

if you are trying to get the flexplate bolts, they are on there really tight. if you have access to an impact, and a shallow socket then you are ok. if not a breaker bar and the holding tool should work. when i did mine the impact had alittle trouble getting the bolts off. it wasnt a weak impact either.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Blue on anything you think needs it. Dont use red unless its a specific thing you are using it on....something that specifically calls for red.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the responses.

mrvedit - I thought the hand tool would be good because you don't have to take the starter off to use it. The other style is more stable I'm sure, but a little more involved. Maybe I'll go with it though since it seems like a sure thing. The hand tool is a little more iffy but did have lots of good reviews on Amazon.

cajun - I do have access to an impact. I have to do the job is my backyard unfortunatly, but I'm buying a couple of 100 ft air hoses. I installed an 80 gallon 2-stage compressor a few weeks ago that I got a great deal on, I intend to use it!!

01ssreda4 - I feel like I've never had good luck with it, or that it ever did anything. Besides my rear end fiasco I've used on small things around the house and it just never seems to work. Are you supposed to use a tiny amount or something? I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I feel like it's almost gimmick-y.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Fwiw I started to notice a vibration after 5yrs of having the converter installed and my arp converter bolts came loose even with blue Loctite. So this go around I went red and tq to 47ft lbs. I normally use blue on everything, but it did not cut this time.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

What's the difference between red and blue?

farmington

iTrader: (14)

red is a "thread locker" blue is easier to take apart after use.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

I wonder if red is the better way to go. The first setup lasted 315K miles. Hopefully this one does too, lol.

mrvedit

I use Red loctite and I use a battery Ryobi 18V 1/2" impact wrench with a Craftsman 17MM swivel socket. Of course since I regularly test converters and trans builds I remove the bolts regularly and they don't get corroded like they might after 10+ years. I probably tighten to around 60 ft lbs, but even with the Red loctite they later come right out with the battery wrench.
The DeWalt 20v max 1/2" impact wrench has much more power (even with the tiny batter) than the Ryobi 18V; therefore it might be the better tool for removing 10+ year old bolts, but then be careful not to overtighten.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

Thanks. Will probably tighten them by hand at the end.

Rick01SS

Checking tolerances is an absolute MUST!

Bellhousing face to converter bolt hole flange to make sure it is properly seated on the trans.

Then flexplate to converter bolt hole flange. Use drill bits between the two to check clearance.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html

http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall