Thread locker for converter and flexplate?
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From: Westchester, NY
Thread locker for converter and flexplate? Changing my transmission soon along with my converter and flexplate. Do you guys recommend using thread locker and if so which one? Checking what is available on Amazon and I don't see anything that seems ideal. The applications listed are either for small engines or oil pans or something else that seems not quite right.... confusing.
I used the regular loc-tite when I did the gears and diff in my truck and the bolts all walked, some sheared off. Pretty PO'd that I had to pull the rear apart twice, and now I'm super unsure of what to use.
And do you guys torque these components when you install or just tighten them really snug and call it good? Thanks for any help.
I used the regular loc-tite when I did the gears and diff in my truck and the bolts all walked, some sheared off. Pretty PO'd that I had to pull the rear apart twice, and now I'm super unsure of what to use.
And do you guys torque these components when you install or just tighten them really snug and call it good? Thanks for any help.
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This stuff Brian?
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-...words=loc+tite
Do you include it with your converters? (That is what is going in it)
Use it on the flexplate bolts as well?
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-...words=loc+tite
Do you include it with your converters? (That is what is going in it)
Use it on the flexplate bolts as well?
FormerVendor
Joined: Jan 2014
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That's the stuff. We include loctite, shims and 10.9 grade bolts with all of our converters. For the crank, the factory 10.9 grade bolts have some sort of compound already. No need for loctite there in my opinion.
-Brian
-Brian
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Great. I'm getting a list of things together for the install and did not remember if you included it or not, but if you do then I'm straight because the new converter is sitting in my basement. Still a little weirded out by my differential situation, but maybe I didn't torque those bolts enough, or loc-tite doesn't like to be submerged quickly.
Any input on torquing everything down or not?
Appreciate the help!
Any input on torquing everything down or not?
Appreciate the help!
FormerVendor
Joined: Jan 2014
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Not sure what happened on the rear end. Just go 45 pounds on the converter bolts and closer to 75 on the crank bolts and you should be good to go. There's some cheap flex plate/flywheel holding tools for LS engines on ebay. We have used these to help hold everything still while you torque it down. Good luck!
-Brian
-Brian
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Cool. Like this guy? What exactly is it bolted to?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-2-3-LSX-...264029&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-2-3-LSX-...264029&vxp=mtr
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I'm wondering if something like this guy wouldn't be a better choice. Could use it later down the road for turning flywheels.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...l+turning+tool
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...l+turning+tool
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I'm wondering if something like this guy wouldn't be a better choice. Could use it later down the road for turning flywheels.
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...l+turning+tool
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T...l+turning+tool
TECH Enthusiast
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From: Thibodaux LA
if you are trying to get the flexplate bolts, they are on there really tight. if you have access to an impact, and a shallow socket then you are ok. if not a breaker bar and the holding tool should work. when i did mine the impact had alittle trouble getting the bolts off. it wasnt a weak impact either.
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Thanks for the responses.
mrvedit - I thought the hand tool would be good because you don't have to take the starter off to use it. The other style is more stable I'm sure, but a little more involved. Maybe I'll go with it though since it seems like a sure thing. The hand tool is a little more iffy but did have lots of good reviews on Amazon.
cajun - I do have access to an impact. I have to do the job is my backyard unfortunatly, but I'm buying a couple of 100 ft air hoses. I installed an 80 gallon 2-stage compressor a few weeks ago that I got a great deal on, I intend to use it!!
01ssreda4 - I feel like I've never had good luck with it, or that it ever did anything. Besides my rear end fiasco I've used on small things around the house and it just never seems to work. Are you supposed to use a tiny amount or something? I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I feel like it's almost gimmick-y.
mrvedit - I thought the hand tool would be good because you don't have to take the starter off to use it. The other style is more stable I'm sure, but a little more involved. Maybe I'll go with it though since it seems like a sure thing. The hand tool is a little more iffy but did have lots of good reviews on Amazon.
cajun - I do have access to an impact. I have to do the job is my backyard unfortunatly, but I'm buying a couple of 100 ft air hoses. I installed an 80 gallon 2-stage compressor a few weeks ago that I got a great deal on, I intend to use it!!
01ssreda4 - I feel like I've never had good luck with it, or that it ever did anything. Besides my rear end fiasco I've used on small things around the house and it just never seems to work. Are you supposed to use a tiny amount or something? I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I feel like it's almost gimmick-y.
Fwiw I started to notice a vibration after 5yrs of having the converter installed and my arp converter bolts came loose even with blue Loctite. So this go around I went red and tq to 47ft lbs. I normally use blue on everything, but it did not cut this time.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
I use Red loctite and I use a battery Ryobi 18V 1/2" impact wrench with a Craftsman 17MM swivel socket. Of course since I regularly test converters and trans builds I remove the bolts regularly and they don't get corroded like they might after 10+ years. I probably tighten to around 60 ft lbs, but even with the Red loctite they later come right out with the battery wrench.
The DeWalt 20v max 1/2" impact wrench has much more power (even with the tiny batter) than the Ryobi 18V; therefore it might be the better tool for removing 10+ year old bolts, but then be careful not to overtighten.
The DeWalt 20v max 1/2" impact wrench has much more power (even with the tiny batter) than the Ryobi 18V; therefore it might be the better tool for removing 10+ year old bolts, but then be careful not to overtighten.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 179
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From: So. IL
Checking tolerances is an absolute MUST!
Bellhousing face to converter bolt hole flange to make sure it is properly seated on the trans.
Then flexplate to converter bolt hole flange. Use drill bits between the two to check clearance.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html
http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall
Bellhousing face to converter bolt hole flange to make sure it is properly seated on the trans.
Then flexplate to converter bolt hole flange. Use drill bits between the two to check clearance.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html
http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall