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M6 neutral/safety switch wiring

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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 05:38 PM
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Default M6 neutral/safety switch wiring

So I'm finishing up my powerglide swap, and I want to get this neutral safety switch wired in. I found this in the stickies

For M6 cars you splice into the lower clutch sensor wires. There is a plug that goes into the sensor at the bottom of the clutch pedal.
The wires are black with a white wire. You can simply splice into those two wires and run them to your new Park / Neutral switch on your shifter. Or just wire them together.
Do I just run a wire from each prong of my micro switch, and connect them to the wires? Or should one side of the micro switch be grounded?
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 09:06 PM
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When I auto swapped mine, the wires were green and purple. I cut the plug off, extended the wires to the microswitch on the new b&m shifter. It doesn't matter what prong you hook either wire up to on the new microswitch.

My car is a 02 but the wiring should be the same

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...auto-swap.html

Post #6 is what I went by and it works on my car. Hope this is what your looking for.
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Old Oct 16, 2016 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Firebirdmuscle
When I auto swapped mine, the wires were green and purple. I cut the plug off, extended the wires to the microswitch on the new b&m shifter. It doesn't matter what prong you hook either wire up to on the new microswitch.

My car is a 02 but the wiring should be the same

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...auto-swap.html

Post #6 is what I went by and it works on my car. Hope this is what your looking for.
Yes sir that's what I'm looking for. Gracious.
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 10:44 AM
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Ok still confused lol. With the clutch switch completely unplugged the car still starts in any gear. And my clutch switch has 4 wires, a red, purple with white stripe, white, and black with white stripe. Which ines do I run to the neutral safety switch, and which ones do I splice together?

Here's my switch wiring
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 01:07 PM
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Ok I got it figured out. I was looking st the white clutch switch. I then went to the black one that's depressed when the clutch is pushed in. That's the two wires you want to splice into.
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Old Oct 17, 2016 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by blk00ss
Ok I got it figured out. I was looking st the white clutch switch. I then went to the black one that's depressed when the clutch is pushed in. That's the two wires you want to splice into.

Yeah it's the one that depresses. Those should purple and green. Are they on your year model?
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 01:53 AM
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Default Neutral saftey switch wiring

I may be coming in late on this but if anyone could help me I would appreciate it. I'm putting a pro ratchet in my 01 z28 and on my factory neural saftey switch on the side of the shifter I got a dark green, a purple and white, a light green, a brown, an orange, and a black wire. If the purple and dark green is the neutral saftey, and the light green and brown are reverse lights, what are the orange and black wires and what do I need to do to them?
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 08:11 AM
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Maybe this will you.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ompatible.html

I was originally a 6 speed car so I had to only use purple and dark green from my clutch switch and I don't remember the color of the wires that went to my reverse light plug on the old t56. I just cut the plug off and extended them up to the microswitch tho.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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The orange/black wire is for the hatch release, black is ground.

Some will tell you to connect them so the hatch release works, but you don't want to do that. The hatch will be able to open while the car is moving. T the orange/black wire into the single signal wire for the E-brake, that way it will only work with the E-brake handle pulled.
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 12:08 AM
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Default Orange and black wires

Would it be easier to get a toggle switch or button switch of some sort to wire the orange and black wires to that I could use to open the hatch then i could just flip the switch them hit the hatch button?
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 01z28kg
Would it be easier to get a toggle switch or button switch of some sort to wire the orange and black wires to that I could use to open the hatch then i could just flip the switch them hit the hatch button?
I went through this when I swapped a 6 speed in my car and then 8 years later swapped it back to an automatic,

Think about it, how many times have you accidentally hit the switch while driving? And what happens when you do hit the switch, it's not an ejection seat.
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
I went through this when I swapped a 6 speed in my car and then 8 years later swapped it back to an automatic,

Think about it, how many times have you accidentally hit the switch while driving? And what happens when you do hit the switch, it's not an ejection seat.
yea that's a good point. The only other I don't know about it the one little connector that went to the factory shifter on the drivers side. I think it's a little 2 or 4 terminal connector
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 01z28kg
yea that's a good point. The only other I don't know about it the one little connector that went to the factory shifter on the drivers side. I think it's a little 2 or 4 terminal connector
Shift lock solenoid?
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
Shift lock solenoid?
is that going to cause any issues leaving it unhooked when I get my ratchet shifter in? is that the solenoid that keeps the shifter from going into reverse without having having your foot on the brake? If it just throws a code and turns the light on I can take it to work and erase the code unless that will cause me another issue.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 01z28kg
is that going to cause any issues leaving it unhooked when I get my ratchet shifter in? is that the solenoid that keeps the shifter from going into reverse without having having your foot on the brake? If it just throws a code and turns the light on I can take it to work and erase the code unless that will cause me another issue.
No, I lost track. You're just swapping shifters? The shift lock solenoid keeps the STOCK shifter from moving until the brake pedal is depressed. It can stay disconnected and have no codes.
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Old Dec 31, 2016 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
No, I lost track. You're just swapping shifters? The shift lock solenoid keeps the STOCK shifter from moving until the brake pedal is depressed. It can stay disconnected and have no codes.
okay good deal. Yea I'm just swapping shifters. You and the other people who commented on here helped me get the wiring figured out but now I'm at another issue with it. The 5ft cable that came with the shifter won't work because I have no room to run it between the transmission and the bottom of the floor and I can't run it over the tranny and loop it under the tail shaft because of how far back the shifter is in the fbodys. So I had to order a 3ft cable and it won't be here till next Wednesday or so. I'm hoping the 3ft cable won't be as stiff and I can run it straight to the transmission.
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