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Not a problem! I have a sneaking suspicion that the converter may not be your issue. If you still go with the new converter, let us know how it does.
That makes me think the converter may not be the issue... there should be a noticeable difference between the 2 if the converter was slipping in lock-up.
Do you have any other suggestions? Anything I can check? Do you think it might be the exhaust pipe under the pan? I'm going to go pop the top line off of the radiator and fire it up to see if it's flowing in a few minutes.
Welp. That's that. It started slipping in 4th then 2nd on my way home. I guess I need to start exploring my options. I always read about peoples bad luck with 4l60es but I always had pretty good luck with them until lately. I'm in a bad place with this.
Do you have any other suggestions? Anything I can check? Do you think it might be the exhaust pipe under the pan? I'm going to go pop the top line off of the radiator and fire it up to see if it's flowing in a few minutes.
I would pull the pan and start there. check the filter and the pan for debris. probably check the cooler flow as well and make sure to get that aftermarket cooler in.
-DALTON
__________________ FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS "IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE." 1-866-726-8358 info@ftiperformance.com FTIPerformance.com FTI Converter build sheet
I don't see how a worn band or any other worn parts could cause the trans to overheat under easy driving and especially not in idle. That makes me think the trans failure might have been caused by the overheating, for which we don't yet know the cause.
Are you thinking of rebuilding it yourself?
There are several excellent threads in the stickies to help with that:
With the trans out, I would definitely suggest upgrading the converter, partly to ensure that is not the cause of overheating and mostly to give you a better performing car.
You have helped me before on my own successful rebuild but I have no time for that now. I'm going to check on the warranty from the JY on this one but I may shell out for a built one from one of the sponsors.
I don't see how a worn band or any other worn parts could cause the trans to overheat under easy driving and especially not in idle. That makes me think the trans failure might have been caused by the overheating, for which we don't yet know the cause.
Are you thinking of rebuilding it yourself?
There are several excellent threads in the stickies to help with that:
With the trans out, I would definitely suggest upgrading the converter, partly to ensure that is not the cause of overheating and mostly to give you a better performing car.
I agree. I don't think the band could have caused that much heat either. This one went out the same as the last one. The TC and the cooling system are the common denominators. The JY is going to warranty it. Snyder's in Holland, TX has been very good to work with. I will be using a new torque converter and cleaning out the cooling lines and installing a tru cool as well for the next one.
My Performabuilt heavy hauler should be leaving Tuesday. Thanks to Alan for the great service so far. The Junkyard is going to honor the warranty on this one and refund me for it. Thanks to Snyder's Auto Salvage for being cool. Thanks to all you guys that tried to help me in this thread too!
My Performabuilt heavy hauler should be leaving Tuesday. Thanks to Alan for the great service so far. The Junkyard is going to honor the warranty on this one and refund me for it. Thanks to Snyder's Auto Salvage for being cool. Thanks to all you guys that tried to help me in this thread too!
Awesome! They're dealers for FTI did you get a converter to go with it?
__________________ FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS "IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE." 1-866-726-8358 info@ftiperformance.com FTIPerformance.com FTI Converter build sheet
If you have any type of performance cam or plan on one, I would strongly suggest a higher stall speed.
What vehicle is this? What cam? What rear end ratio?
I have a small truck cam now, like 214/218 on 111 lsa. It was nice and torquey even with the 2000 rpm stall that was in it. It is a Tahoe and currently has 3.42s. It could use some gearing but I thing that will be enough stall. Oh, and its a 6.0 with some 243s. I built a really bad *** tahoe one time and tried many different combos on it. I did all of my learning on that one so I have a real good idea of what to expect from what. After this hit on my account I doubt I'll be doing any big cam swaps any time soon. Wifey's having a baby in a few weeks so that's it for this truck for a while.
I got my new Performabuilt Heavy Hauler and FTI 2500 stall converter in and running. It shifts like butter! I watched the temp on my scanner this morning. It will still gain heat while I'm idling but it never got above 145 this morning. I think my Y pipe is still introducing heat through the pan. The fans are set to not come on until the engine gets pretty warm so I set them to come on at operating temp with the engine idling. That should keep everything cool now with my Tru Cool 40k bypassing the radiator. Cruising down the highway with the converter locked the temps drop to in the 120s. Thanks to everyone who chimed in and thanks to Performabuilt for getting mine built and to my house as quickly as they could. I can love my truck again (even more now).
Yeah. It would have been good for the thread if I could have figured out the cause of that but as far as my truck goes, I'm happy with the way it turned out. Here's some eye candy.
Aaaaaand it's sitting on the floor again. I just cant win. I should have built my own. Or even better, for all the time the truck has been down for some transmission problem or another, I could have dropped it off at a local shop, gotten everything done, warranty work would include labor, my wife wouldn't be blaming me for it and I'd probably have an extra $800 in my pocket. I'm just saying...
What about a 4l80e swap? I will require you to move afew things around because of girth issues but you probably won't have to pull it every other week either.
What about a 4l80e swap? I will require you to move afew things around because of girth issues but you probably won't have to pull it every other week either.
I wish I'd gone that route. I have way too much into my current setup now and it seems I'm stuck with it. You're right, though. That would have been the right thing to do.
Can you sell components and pickup a cheaper stock style 4l80? They seem to live well stock with an HD2 shift kit. I have been there on the 4l60's and won't play that game again.
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