3200 to 4000rpm Stall question ???
My car bone stock did 13.91 101miles. Now i installed a set of Jet hot 1 3/4 and a mufflex 4" and ran 13.74@102 with 2.73 gears. Next event is Dic.2 and i going to put 3.42 gears SSRA a drag pack Bogarts with 275/50/15MT and play for now with Predator programmer. Hope to cut 1/2 second and like 3 to 5 miles trap speed. But next my concern is, what stall? So i can use anywhere from 3200k to 4000k stall with the factory camshaft?
My car bone stock did 13.91 101miles. Now i installed a set of Jet hot 1 3/4 and a mufflex 4" and ran 13.74@102 with 2.73 gears. Next event is Dic.2 and i going to put 3.42 gears SSRA a drag pack Bogarts with 275/50/15MT and play for now with Predator programmer. Hope to cut 1/2 second and like 3 to 5 miles trap speed. But next my concern is, what stall? So i can use anywhere from 3200k to 4000k stall with the factory camshaft?
A good way to look at it is look at a stock ls1 dyno graph.... Now see how much power you are making at 3200 rpm's as opposed to 4000 rpm's.
This is a quick run down of my car.
100% bone stock A4 2.73 car 13.8@101 mph
Lt's, tune, drag radial. 13.2@107 mph
3.73's, yank ss3600 12.2@111 mph
Is your track at high elevation? What was the DA on that 102mph run? That's very slow for an LS1 with LT headers + full exhaust, unless the DA was poor. Was it tuned for the headers?
I found a 3500 stall speed to be great with the stock cam. But 4000 would also work well, though at this range and above is when part throttle "looseness" starts to become more noticeable IMO. Some folks are more bothered by looseness than others. 3500 felt as natural as stock to me after a few drives. SS3600 would be a good current choice.
If you want to spend $500-$800 and 5-6 hour labor, you might consider a cam upgrade instead. A cam is $400, but you might need new springs too.
A good way to look at it is look at a stock ls1 dyno graph.... Now see how much power you are making at 3200 rpm's as opposed to 4000 rpm's.
This is a quick run down of my car.
100% bone stock A4 2.73 car 13.8@101 mph
Lt's, tune, drag radial. 13.2@107 mph
3.73's, yank ss3600 12.2@111 mph
"I was talking to a friend today and i going to do a dyno run to order the converter using that information."
"The results with your 3.73 and stall is impressive. Is the first time i decided to mess with the 4l60e and stall converter. That is why Im looking in deep what you guys are doing."
Is your track at high elevation? What was the DA on that 102mph run? That's very slow for an LS1 with LT headers + full exhaust, unless the DA was poor. Was it tuned for the headers?
I found a 3500 stall speed to be great with the stock cam. But 4000 would also work well, though at this range and above is when part throttle "looseness" starts to become more noticeable IMO. Some folks are more bothered by looseness than others. 3500 felt as natural as stock to me after a few drives. SS3600 would be a good current choice.
"Yes i know my trap speed is low. I moved a year ago from Puerto Rico that is sea level to Las Vegas 3700 feet above sea level and dry air with most of the year over 95 degrees. The run with LT was with 90 dregree temp. and like 25 to 30% humidity and like 30 in var.pressure. I know need to tune the car play it to make it work better. "
Good to know.Thanks
Very nice input from you guys. So know now i can not be wrong with 36-4000 stall in my car.
Last edited by fastsspr; Nov 4, 2016 at 04:01 PM.
If you want to spend $500-$800 and 5-6 hour labor, you might consider a cam upgrade instead. A cam is $400, but you might need new springs too.
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Da's were similar. I never trapped 113 with the 2.73. The 12.30 was a 1.90 60' because I could only warm up one tire. Rear brake was holding one from spinning. When I swapped in the 3.42 I installed a line lock to take care of that issue along with strange SA rear shocks. 11.81 was a 1.62 60'. I never dead hooked with the toyos and wasn't about to run slicks on the 10 bolt while driving 1.5 hrs to the track. The 11.66 was a 1.52 60'.
To put everything together with what I know now; I could have cut a 1.52 60' with the 3.42 if it held and actually would have ran quicker because 10 bolt vs 8.8. I could have probably gotten a high 1.6 out of the 2.73 and ran about 11.90.
Da's were similar. I never trapped 113 with the 2.73. The 12.30 was a 1.90 60' because I could only warm up one tire. Rear brake was holding one from spinning. When I swapped in the 3.42 I installed a line lock to take care of that issue along with strange SA rear shocks. 11.81 was a 1.62 60'. I never dead hooked with the toyos and wasn't about to run slicks on the 10 bolt while driving 1.5 hrs to the track. The 11.66 was a 1.52 60'.
To put everything together with what I know now; I could have cut a 1.52 60' with the 3.42 if it held and actually would have ran quicker because 10 bolt vs 8.8. I could have probably gotten a high 1.6 out of the 2.73 and ran about 11.90.
BTW, great times overall for the setup.
When you go with a stall traction is an issue on stock tires. I'd recommend drag radials, lcas and subframe connectors.
Stock cam is fine with a 4k, just make sure you bring your shift points up.
Da's were similar. I never trapped 113 with the 2.73. The 12.30 was a 1.90 60' because I could only warm up one tire. Rear brake was holding one from spinning. When I swapped in the 3.42 I installed a line lock to take care of that issue along with strange SA rear shocks. 11.81 was a 1.62 60'. I never dead hooked with the toyos and wasn't about to run slicks on the 10 bolt while driving 1.5 hrs to the track. The 11.66 was a 1.52 60'.
To put everything together with what I know now; I could have cut a 1.52 60' with the 3.42 if it held and actually would have ran quicker because 10 bolt vs 8.8. I could have probably gotten a high 1.6 out of the 2.73 and ran about 11.90.
Very interesting and enlightening points here. My hard time in the track going to be that in Las Vegas weather changes are extreme around the year to compare accurate data.












