mrvedit

Thank you PBA; I added a correction to my earlier post.
And thank you for the additional info.

Kaleb Laughlin

I found a garret gt2256v from a mercedes 300d in the trash today and the only thing wrong with it was the exhaust impeller, I've replaced it and it seems to spin just wonderfully now, can I put it on a 6.0?

I'm not trying to make a whole lot of power, just more than 350

MaroonMonsterLS1

Can't tell if honest mistake, trolling, or just this stupid.
I'm hoping mistake.
Your comment has 0 relevance to this thread.

matermark

I know this is an older thread but I'd like to know the opposite:

What do I need to run a billet 10-vane rotor in an '07 non-ISS 4L60E trans, 7KCD, if it matters? It's for an '04 5.3L vehicle, but the core I'm building is a 7KCD (if it matters.) There was no ISS connector that would go into the opening above the pump (with trans upside-down) when I removed the pan; pump's not out yet. Can the rotor just be put into a 13-vane slide using a 10-vane guide? Do I need to buy a 10-vane slide? I also bought the TransGo 700-PKH ring kit...

MaroonMonsterLS1

leave the slide alone
swap rotors to your hearts' desire

a factory 10v rotor is perfectly fine...no need for billet
no need for billet any count rotor

PBA

Exactly. No need for the billet rotor. As said, leave the slide the original 13V and change the rotor and guide to the 10V setup.

matermark

Thanks guys. I already own a shiny new 10-vane billet rotor. Some racers swear by the 10, it has less spots to fracture at, including install mishaps & "over-tunes." I'm sure we've all seen tons of what can go wrong in Precision Transmissions' 4l60e teardowns on YT. I'm disabled and can't do the transmission R&R, just the rebuild. I haven't rebuilt a trans in over 20 years, I used to do 200-4R's from GN's behind Callies stroker SBC's, mostly Art Carr trans stuff and Lingenfelter SuperRam engine stuff, but I have some help online on this one from a Transmission Brotherhood member. Actually he's spoken highly of you guys. I'm trying to prevent parts breakage in a 5300lb. (w/driver) creampuff with just 3.42's & G80... I'm building the vehicle from the transmission outward...

While we're on the trans, can I get your opinions on 3-4's? Would you rather go with:

• Eight .067" frictions with seven .095" steels

-- OR--

• Nine .062" frictions with eight .077" steels?

Thanks for your help.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

another shout out for Precision Transmission tear downs....yea

vorteciroc

If any of you start Blue-Printing these Pumps regularly...

You will also find that the OEM/ GM Rotors and Slides are better made in terms of dimension tolerances...
compared to Aftermarket and Billet parts.

Years ago when the THM200-4R and THM700-R4 were still very popular, the Aftermarket Pump parts were mostly complete junk!

matermark

I made it a point to have "Keep Your GM Car All GM!" posters at the counter and in the front window, though, then, it was GM's campaign against mostly aftermarket body parts showing, visual salt test results between actual GM body parts and the broad line of aftermarket crash parts. Things got even more fun when GM slashed prices to remain competitive.... and we slashed GM prices even more.