TCI Converter Tightness
01-27-2017, 11:29 PM
#3
Moving this question over here where it belongs and where you'll get answers.
I'll offer mine: my TCI SF3000 was quite "tight" with my 3.42 gears. It did everything I asked of it and performed flawlessly in daily driving and at the strip. I have heard on this forum that the SSF3500 is considerably more "loose", but perceptions of "tightness" or "looseness" are always subjective.
The bigger question about TCI converters is clutch durability. I'd direct you to this thread for discussion of that https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rter-live.html
I'll offer mine: my TCI SF3000 was quite "tight" with my 3.42 gears. It did everything I asked of it and performed flawlessly in daily driving and at the strip. I have heard on this forum that the SSF3500 is considerably more "loose", but perceptions of "tightness" or "looseness" are always subjective.
The bigger question about TCI converters is clutch durability. I'd direct you to this thread for discussion of that https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...rter-live.html
01-28-2017, 08:36 PM
#4
I had a TCI street fighter in a 2001 z28 with 3.23 gears. It was very loose. Tried a Circle D 3c, same thing- loose.
CALLED FTI and they sent me one thats what I would consider tight until I get on it, it'll stall as high as the others. I told FTI specifically I didn't want it loose down low and driving easy, but still wanted a 3000-3400 stall speed. They gave me exactly what I wanted.
A few months ago I bought another FTI to go in my 2002 ss with 3.73's, that one "off the shelf" is tight down low but stalls high with high throttle.
CALLED FTI and they sent me one thats what I would consider tight until I get on it, it'll stall as high as the others. I told FTI specifically I didn't want it loose down low and driving easy, but still wanted a 3000-3400 stall speed. They gave me exactly what I wanted.
A few months ago I bought another FTI to go in my 2002 ss with 3.73's, that one "off the shelf" is tight down low but stalls high with high throttle.
01-29-2017, 07:03 AM
#5
I had a TCI2800 w/3.23s' and I considered it very 'loose'. When I put a 4.56 rear in,it tightened up. Put a Yank SS3600 in and 'tight'.converted back to 3.23 and the Yank SS3600 stayed 'tight'. Had a friend put in a TCI 3000 street fighter(2.73s') and it was very 'loose'.
01-29-2017, 09:03 AM
#6
if you spend some time researching on here in the transmission section before you pull the trigger on a convertor you will find the higher quality ( and cost) convertors will give you the best of both worlds plenty of stall without being too loose.
The yank ss3600 seems to be the superstar that always gets mentioned as being perfect for a daily driver or ss4000 if more track focused but still streetable.
I have a vigilante 3600 paired with 373's and it is plenty tight for normal light throttle driving but completely turned the car into a beast when you open it up. I have only had the car to the track once and it had a failing fuel pump which reared its ugly head in 3rd gear... which I never run it hard on the streets beyond shifting into 3rd - faster than I want to get stopped for !!! full weight 173k mile car with no where near full bolt ons and it ran 12.1 @112 for me.
Don't cheap out on stall it is the most transformative thing you can do to one of these cars if still normally aspirated , ls1's don't start making decent power until over 3000 rpm you want to be there immediately when you step on it, a good stall will do that for you. If you think you may ever want to do a cam then make sure the stall is high enough that it will work well with a cam (3500+)
The yank ss3600 seems to be the superstar that always gets mentioned as being perfect for a daily driver or ss4000 if more track focused but still streetable.
I have a vigilante 3600 paired with 373's and it is plenty tight for normal light throttle driving but completely turned the car into a beast when you open it up. I have only had the car to the track once and it had a failing fuel pump which reared its ugly head in 3rd gear... which I never run it hard on the streets beyond shifting into 3rd - faster than I want to get stopped for !!! full weight 173k mile car with no where near full bolt ons and it ran 12.1 @112 for me.
Don't cheap out on stall it is the most transformative thing you can do to one of these cars if still normally aspirated , ls1's don't start making decent power until over 3000 rpm you want to be there immediately when you step on it, a good stall will do that for you. If you think you may ever want to do a cam then make sure the stall is high enough that it will work well with a cam (3500+)
Last edited by murphinator; 01-29-2017 at 09:20 AM.
01-29-2017, 09:47 AM
#7
Moderator
I had a TCI 2600 which was too tight for my engine, bogging it.
I has a TCI Super Street Figher (3500 stall?) which was too loose and therefore unpleasant for street driving.
I then had a Yank SS3600 which was very tight and nice for street driving.
I now have a CircleD 3600 triple disk and it is also very tight and nice for street driving.
I never noticed much difference at the track between the 3500/3600 converter until I started locking the triple disk which did help.
As general advice which others have already stated, I would stay away from cheap under $500 converters. You learn this when you install a premium converter and go WOW!
I has a TCI Super Street Figher (3500 stall?) which was too loose and therefore unpleasant for street driving.
I then had a Yank SS3600 which was very tight and nice for street driving.
I now have a CircleD 3600 triple disk and it is also very tight and nice for street driving.
I never noticed much difference at the track between the 3500/3600 converter until I started locking the triple disk which did help.
As general advice which others have already stated, I would stay away from cheap under $500 converters. You learn this when you install a premium converter and go WOW!
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01-31-2017, 02:14 PM
#8
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I would stay away from the Streetfighter / Super
Streetfighter TCI converters for 4L60E applications,
they have pretty weak clutches.
I had the SF3000/2.2 as my first aftermarket
converter. It was enough of a step up to need
tuning. It also "laid over" early with respect to
torque multiplication, but got to 97% efficient
by about 5000RPM (2 faces of the same action).
The clutches were ruined by some type F based
"Trick Shift" fluid (don't do it - std only).
I rode in and tuned on a T/A with the SF3500/2.5
converter. It would roar and go nowhere but then
hit pretty hard once you got RPMs up. This is your
"loose". Not great for street driving in my "old man"
opinion. Has the same 4-cylinder clutch inside.
Have data from a TCI 3800 Streetfighter series,
it has lousy efficiency and would be even looser.
There are many better designs out there. But
getting clear about what you really want out of
one, before you go to the expense and effort,
is on you.
Streetfighter TCI converters for 4L60E applications,
they have pretty weak clutches.
I had the SF3000/2.2 as my first aftermarket
converter. It was enough of a step up to need
tuning. It also "laid over" early with respect to
torque multiplication, but got to 97% efficient
by about 5000RPM (2 faces of the same action).
The clutches were ruined by some type F based
"Trick Shift" fluid (don't do it - std only).
I rode in and tuned on a T/A with the SF3500/2.5
converter. It would roar and go nowhere but then
hit pretty hard once you got RPMs up. This is your
"loose". Not great for street driving in my "old man"
opinion. Has the same 4-cylinder clutch inside.
Have data from a TCI 3800 Streetfighter series,
it has lousy efficiency and would be even looser.
There are many better designs out there. But
getting clear about what you really want out of
one, before you go to the expense and effort,
is on you.