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4L60E Manually shifting to 1st

Old Jul 19, 2025 | 04:07 PM
  #41  
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I would like to pressure test the circuit while the pan is off, haven't researched how yet.
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Old Sep 2, 2025 | 11:22 PM
  #42  
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I finally got back to the transmission problem this weekend. Dropped the pan and inspected the internal linkage and manual valve, it all looked OK. The shaft only has 2 flats and is impossible to install incorrectly. The detent also only goes on 1 way, no adjustment in any of the internal parts. It is difficult to see if the manual valve has full travel. I removed the pressure switch, it is on the bottom of the valve body and very easy to remove. I shifted it through all gears and sprayed brake clean through all pressure switch ports. I could tell that something was changing between 1st and 2nd so I concluded that the manual valve was moving fully to 1st. I tested the pressure switch and found that the low switch was bad. Replaced pressure switch, filter, and prnd switch. Filled up the oil, 5 qts. Now manual low works properly.
I also installed a spider injector upgrade from motor Man and a tuned PCM from Blackbear. It seems to run a lot better. Just got the oil back in the transmission and engine, will drive it tomorrow on a longer run. Had to a PCM password relearn and now I guess it needs a crank relearn. This needs to be done with a legit scanner. I'm not sure what it's all about.
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Old Sep 3, 2025 | 11:13 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Mariodave
I have a 1998 Chevrolet K1500. The transmission will not shift to 1st gear manually but shifts to 1st ok in D or OD. Has anyone ever figured out this problem. It seems to be common after a rebuild.
Have only now seen this thread. I assume you are trying to force a 2-1 downshift at higher speed or hold to higher speeds. This is not something the trans can do as The manual valve in the 60e does not overide the PCM/TCM and the tune is set such that when in M1 the PCM/TCM will allow an upshift at a certain speed and or disalow a downshift above a certain speed with M1 selected.
Correction is simple enough.
1- EASIEST go into tune and change the speed numbers to allow the downshift/upshift you want .
2- Bit harder install the TRANSGO HD2 kit which will allow a manual overide in M1

Other mechanical solutions do exist such as before the TG or easy tuning I used to install a pipe from the M1 circuit of the VB to shift sol A with a 1 way check valve (simple ball in tune with size differential and flood the solenoid forcing 1st .

But now days one of the above is easiest .
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 12:28 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by FranksCustomTrans
Have only now seen this thread. I assume you are trying to force a 2-1 downshift at higher speed or hold to higher speeds. This is not something the trans can do as The manual valve in the 60e does not overide the PCM/TCM and the tune is set such that when in M1 the PCM/TCM will allow an upshift at a certain speed and or disalow a downshift above a certain speed with M1 selected.
Correction is simple enough.
1- EASIEST go into tune and change the speed numbers to allow the downshift/upshift you want .
2- Bit harder install the TRANSGO HD2 kit which will allow a manual overide in M1

Other mechanical solutions do exist such as before the TG or easy tuning I used to install a pipe from the M1 circuit of the VB to shift sol A with a 1 way check valve (simple ball in tune with size differential and flood the solenoid forcing 1st .

But now days one of the above is easiest .
No, I am not trying to downshift at a high speed. It would not shift to manual low when stopped. It started out in 2nd even when 1st was selected. Again, the pressure switch was bad.
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 12:31 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by bbond105
If you drop the pan, while the pan is off, replace the Pressure Manifold Switch. They are cheap and not worth having to drop the pan again once you done looking at the manual valve. Most of the time this will solve the problem. The seal between the switch and valve will start leaking sometimes.
The pressure switch was bad for low. Replaced it, problem solved.
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 12:35 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Fuhnortoner
Out here doing gods work

🔧 How It Works: Manual Valve + Pressure Switch + PCM

1. Manual Valve

  • The manual valve is physically moved by the shift linkage.
  • It controls hydraulic flow paths inside the valve body.
  • As it moves, it directs fluid pressure to various circuits including the pressure switch manifold (PSM), and routes pressure to clutch packs and servos.

2. Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) Switches – A/B/C

  • Located in the pressure switch manifold.
  • Sense whether hydraulic pressure is present in key circuits.
  • Return either High (H) (pressure present) or Low (L) (no pressure).
  • This H/L combination forms a “code” that the PCM decodes to identify the gear position.

3. PCM Gear Logic

  • The PCM reads the TFP switch state AND the manual valve position (via PRNDL switch).
  • It does not control the manual valve — it responds to it.
  • Based on the position and switch state, the PCM then decides:
    • What gear is commanded
    • Which shift solenoids (1–2, 2–3) to activate or deactivate
    • Whether to enable engine braking, torque converter clutch, etc.

🚩 Interpretation of "1" Gear Not Being Recognized

Your manual "1" gear (all the way down) reads the exact same switch pattern as D2, so the PCM thinks it's still in 2nd gear:
  • This means the manual valve is not traveling far enough to route pressure to the unique “manual 1” circuit.
  • No fluid is sent to the switch manifold’s unique 1st gear pressure circuit → so the switch pattern doesn’t change → PCM doesn’t know you want 1st → it holds 2nd.
Even though you shift to "1", the internal hydraulics never change to match it.

🧰 What Sends the "Manual 1" Signal?

  • The manual valve has to:
    1. Engage the 1st gear hydraulic circuits
    2. Apply pressure to TFP switch B to L
      • But in your case, it’s still High, so the hydraulic pressure isn’t changing
    3. Engage the 1–2 shift solenoid (Sol A) and allow engine braking
Because TFP B stays High in 1st (when it should change), this confirms the manual valve isn’t getting into the 1st gear position.

✅ Conclusion

  • Your scan data proves the PCM is not being told you're in 1st, because the pressure switch state never changes.
  • This points 100% to a mechanical issue:
    • Manual valve travel is incomplete
    • Possible worn or misaligned rooster comb, bent linkage, or improperly seated valve
  • It’s not the pressure switch itself — it’s not being triggered because pressure never gets there.

🔧 Recommended Fix:

  • Drop the pan and verify manual valve travel all the way to 1st.
  • Watch the manual valve link pin and rooster comb as you shift through the gears.
  • You should feel distinct detents all the way into 1.
  • If it’s limited, adjust the selector shaft or remove/reseat the manual valve.
Let me know if you want a diagram showing how the manual valve is routed through the valve body and connects to the selector pin. I can mock one up or label an existing image.
The pressure switch for low was bad, replaced the TFP switch. Problem solved.
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Old Sep 4, 2025 | 12:59 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Mariodave
The pressure switch for low was bad, replaced the TFP switch. Problem solved.
Sorry misunderstood the issue
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