Which torque converter should I buy?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
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Which torque converter should I buy? I finally got my 4L60E rebuild parts from Dana (will make a thread on them later). He told me to go for 11" 2400-2600 stall torque converter. But I need to know which torque converter should I get? I don't want to bury my foot to get the car moving.
Daily, mildly aggressive driving.
Rear gear ratio 3.08.
Tire diameter : 25.3"
Bone stock LS1
Lock-up is a must
Daily, mildly aggressive driving.
Rear gear ratio 3.08.
Tire diameter : 25.3"
Bone stock LS1
Lock-up is a must
Fill out a custom converter form from FTI, Circle D, or Yank. It'll ask for your goals and current mods. Either of those converters are top notch, so you'll end up with a quality stall anyways. You might want to look into a transmission cooler as well.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
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But doesn't it mean that I'll be paying more for a custom TC? I don't want to exceed the $500 mark.
An 11" 2400-2600 isn't even worth thinking about,the stock GM OEM stall is 1800.
Don't throw your money away on such a low stall because in the end you'll be disappointed by its' performance and have to do it all over again.
How did you come up with a 3.08 rear gear ? Autos are 2.73 or 3.23 !
'custom TC' ? A yank SS3600/SS4000 or CircleD equivalent are not custom,it's that they're built when ordered. The 'good' stalls are not stocked on the shelf at retail outlets.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-question.html
Don't throw your money away on such a low stall because in the end you'll be disappointed by its' performance and have to do it all over again.
How did you come up with a 3.08 rear gear ? Autos are 2.73 or 3.23 !
'custom TC' ? A yank SS3600/SS4000 or CircleD equivalent are not custom,it's that they're built when ordered. The 'good' stalls are not stocked on the shelf at retail outlets.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-question.html
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
An 11" 2400-2600 isn't even worth thinking about,the stock GM OEM stall is 1800.
Don't throw your money away on such a low stall because in the end you'll be disappointed by its' performance and have to do it all over again.
How did you come up with a 3.08 rear gear ? Autos are 2.73 or 3.23 !
'custom TC' ? A yank SS3600/SS4000 or CircleD equivalent are not custom,it's that they're built when ordered. The 'good' stalls are not stocked on the shelf at retail outlets.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-question.html
Don't throw your money away on such a low stall because in the end you'll be disappointed by its' performance and have to do it all over again.
How did you come up with a 3.08 rear gear ? Autos are 2.73 or 3.23 !
'custom TC' ? A yank SS3600/SS4000 or CircleD equivalent are not custom,it's that they're built when ordered. The 'good' stalls are not stocked on the shelf at retail outlets.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-question.html
As for the ratio, that's the number I've seen on the Australian posts (I have a Holden Commodore VX SS, can be thought of as a watered down version of the GTO).
The TCs that I've seen that are around the price I can put down are CircleD (2600-2800 or 3000-3200), and Yank Stealth Thruster (2800, 3000).
Do either of them fit me well?
Last edited by Nemesis_Dawn; May 14, 2017 at 11:38 PM.
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If you have a bone stock engine and a 3.08 gear you want a low stall speed. 2400 to 2800 is as high as I would select. You mean DANA from probuilt right? Buy what he says to buy, that guy is a transmission genius. my recommendation would be a 9.5" Lockup from YANK but that is probably out of your budget which is why Dana suggested the 11". There is no doubt 9.5" is the best possible converter to preserve the life of the trans and most efficient, it just very expensive.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Yank SS3200 or similar from Circle D.
http://ftiperformance.net/Street-Bra...L65E-SB-LS.htm
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or want to discuss a recommendation.
If you decide you want to go ahead and bite the bullet and go with the 9.5" billet converter we got you covered there too!
http://ftiperformance.net/Street-Rac...4L65E-SRLS.htm
-Dalton
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
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If you have a bone stock engine and a 3.08 gear you want a low stall speed. 2400 to 2800 is as high as I would select. You mean DANA from probuilt right? Buy what he says to buy, that guy is a transmission genius. my recommendation would be a 9.5" Lockup from YANK but that is probably out of your budget which is why Dana suggested the 11". There is no doubt 9.5" is the best possible converter to preserve the life of the trans and most efficient, it just very expensive.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
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'stall speed' is a totally wrong term. stall is rpm based,speed is mph based.
stall rpm has nothing to do with the chart in post #11,that chart appears to be an rpm calculator based on tire diameter and rear gear ratio at 60mph. A torque convertor 'slips' based on the resistance it sees. Accelerating a vehicle slightly will cause less resistance(less slippage) as opposed to accelerating a vehicle moderately which will cause more resistance(more slippage),and again as opposed to accelerating a vehicle at wide open throttle which causes the most resistance(highest degree of slippage) which will cause the convertor to jump(flash) to its' rated stall.
Using the charts' 26" tire diameter,3.08 rear gear ratio,and 2388 rpm at 60mph AND let's assume that condition is occurring at steady cruise control speed on the freeway,there will be NO difference at that condition/situation between 2400,2800,3000,3200,3600,4000 stall convertors.
next 'power range' from post #11. that chart has nothing to do with power range.
from post #5-regular daily driving-then why do you want a 'stall' ?
stall rpm has nothing to do with the chart in post #11,that chart appears to be an rpm calculator based on tire diameter and rear gear ratio at 60mph. A torque convertor 'slips' based on the resistance it sees. Accelerating a vehicle slightly will cause less resistance(less slippage) as opposed to accelerating a vehicle moderately which will cause more resistance(more slippage),and again as opposed to accelerating a vehicle at wide open throttle which causes the most resistance(highest degree of slippage) which will cause the convertor to jump(flash) to its' rated stall.
Using the charts' 26" tire diameter,3.08 rear gear ratio,and 2388 rpm at 60mph AND let's assume that condition is occurring at steady cruise control speed on the freeway,there will be NO difference at that condition/situation between 2400,2800,3000,3200,3600,4000 stall convertors.
next 'power range' from post #11. that chart has nothing to do with power range.
from post #5-regular daily driving-then why do you want a 'stall' ?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
'stall speed' is a totally wrong term. stall is rpm based,speed is mph based.
stall rpm has nothing to do with the chart in post #11,that chart appears to be an rpm calculator based on tire diameter and rear gear ratio at 60mph. A torque convertor 'slips' based on the resistance it sees. Accelerating a vehicle slightly will cause less resistance(less slippage) as opposed to accelerating a vehicle moderately which will cause more resistance(more slippage),and again as opposed to accelerating a vehicle at wide open throttle which causes the most resistance(highest degree of slippage) which will cause the convertor to jump(flash) to its' rated stall.
Using the charts' 26" tire diameter,3.08 rear gear ratio,and 2388 rpm at 60mph AND let's assume that condition is occurring at steady cruise control speed on the freeway,there will be NO difference at that condition/situation between 2400,2800,3000,3200,3600,4000 stall convertors.
next 'power range' from post #11. that chart has nothing to do with power range.
from post #5-regular daily driving-then why do you want a 'stall' ?
stall rpm has nothing to do with the chart in post #11,that chart appears to be an rpm calculator based on tire diameter and rear gear ratio at 60mph. A torque convertor 'slips' based on the resistance it sees. Accelerating a vehicle slightly will cause less resistance(less slippage) as opposed to accelerating a vehicle moderately which will cause more resistance(more slippage),and again as opposed to accelerating a vehicle at wide open throttle which causes the most resistance(highest degree of slippage) which will cause the convertor to jump(flash) to its' rated stall.
Using the charts' 26" tire diameter,3.08 rear gear ratio,and 2388 rpm at 60mph AND let's assume that condition is occurring at steady cruise control speed on the freeway,there will be NO difference at that condition/situation between 2400,2800,3000,3200,3600,4000 stall convertors.
next 'power range' from post #11. that chart has nothing to do with power range.
from post #5-regular daily driving-then why do you want a 'stall' ?
The reasons why I'm going with stall are.
1) Dana suggesting them for me, and building my kit to fit a stall converter
2) Even though I won't use the car for racing, I may still want to have a bit of fun every once in awhile.
3) He (Dana) asked me lots of questions regarding how I drive, rear diff, the car itself, and he pointed out that I should (or must) get a 2600 stall TC to work perfectly with his kit.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
If you go with a 2400-2600 there is not a doubt in my mind you will be disappointed.
You do not build a transmission to work with a specific converter. You rebuild a transmission then pick out a converter for your specific power setup.
You do not build a transmission to work with a specific converter. You rebuild a transmission then pick out a converter for your specific power setup.
above that is where you may run into too much convertor for a stock engine but I think there is a thread or 2 around here with 4200-4400 stalls on very minor bolt on cars and they run damn quick...
the point of a stall convertor is to get the rpm's into the powerband as quickly as possible and LS1's really come on above 3000 rpm ( higher on modded ones).
"3) He (Dana) asked me lots of questions regarding how I drive, rear diff, the car itself, and he pointed out that I should (or must) get a 2600 stall TC to work perfectly with his kit."
"should(or must)"-definitely BS
Ask him/them if you do as they say and you're unhappy with the 2600,will he/they replace it with a higher stall parts and labor for free.
tell him/them you're doing a 3600 just to get their reaction.
are they supplying the 2600 ? if so,they're probably getting it at a great price for them to increase their profit when selling it to you.
"should(or must)"-definitely BS
Ask him/them if you do as they say and you're unhappy with the 2600,will he/they replace it with a higher stall parts and labor for free.
tell him/them you're doing a 3600 just to get their reaction.
are they supplying the 2600 ? if so,they're probably getting it at a great price for them to increase their profit when selling it to you.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
to some extent even on a bone stock car the higher you go with the stall the quicker it would be provided tire/suspension were in place to hook it up , a 3000 stall will be quicker than same car with 2500 stall , 3500 stall quicker than 3000 , 4000 quicker than 3500.
above that is where you may run into too much convertor for a stock engine but I think there is a thread or 2 around here with 4200-4400 stalls on very minor bolt on cars and they run damn quick...
the point of a stall convertor is to get the rpm's into the powerband as quickly as possible and LS1's really come on above 3000 rpm ( higher on modded ones).
above that is where you may run into too much convertor for a stock engine but I think there is a thread or 2 around here with 4200-4400 stalls on very minor bolt on cars and they run damn quick...
the point of a stall convertor is to get the rpm's into the powerband as quickly as possible and LS1's really come on above 3000 rpm ( higher on modded ones).
My options so far are Yank Stealth Thruster (2800-3000), Circle D HP 11" (2600-3200), and FTI. Which do you think is best?
Also, if you had a stock LS1, and you drove in town a lot, which stall exactly would you choose?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
"3) He (Dana) asked me lots of questions regarding how I drive, rear diff, the car itself, and he pointed out that I should (or must) get a 2600 stall TC to work perfectly with his kit."
"should(or must)"-definitely BS
Ask him/them if you do as they say and you're unhappy with the 2600,will he/they replace it with a higher stall parts and labor for free.
tell him/them you're doing a 3600 just to get their reaction.
are they supplying the 2600 ? if so,they're probably getting it at a great price for them to increase their profit when selling it to you.
"should(or must)"-definitely BS
Ask him/them if you do as they say and you're unhappy with the 2600,will he/they replace it with a higher stall parts and labor for free.
tell him/them you're doing a 3600 just to get their reaction.
are they supplying the 2600 ? if so,they're probably getting it at a great price for them to increase their profit when selling it to you.
