Picking a stall
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From: Michigan
Picking a stall So I am going to want to pick a stall soon, ive herd extreamly good things about the SS yank converters the smallest I see people wanting to go would be 3600 some of my friends are saying that is too much but they don't know anything about these cars so I am going to atleast get a 3600 because I do plan on doing a cam soon, is it night and day going from stock to a 3600 and has anyone ran there car at the track with only doing a converter swap?
3600 stall might be a bit much for a riding lawnmower.
Can you provide more info so we can better assist you on a stall speed, converter size, single or multi-disk and so on.
Intended use of the Vehicle? Daily, Street/Strip, Strip Only, Drag Car
Vehicle?
Vehicle Weight?
Engine and mods?
Transmission?
Axle Ratio?
Tire Size?
Specs of Potential Cam you will be doing?
Potential mods in the future?
Circle-D, Yank, Precision, TCI, FTI, RevMax, to name a few, are great Companies with reputable Converters.
The bare minimum I would go with for any LS motor would be a 2600 stall. Now depending on a few things you may need a multi-disk converter. A higher stall will aid in a better launch and 60' times, maintain a certain rpm during shifting to keep the engine in the powerband. Now if you don't have a motor to back up your stall, you may end up going slower. A higher stall will cause more heat, so a trans cooler is recommended. It is generally not a good idea to throw in a random stall converter before you plan out your future mods, as well as not knowing the correct information when choosing a higher stall.
Can you provide more info so we can better assist you on a stall speed, converter size, single or multi-disk and so on.
Intended use of the Vehicle? Daily, Street/Strip, Strip Only, Drag Car
Vehicle?
Vehicle Weight?
Engine and mods?
Transmission?
Axle Ratio?
Tire Size?
Specs of Potential Cam you will be doing?
Potential mods in the future?
Circle-D, Yank, Precision, TCI, FTI, RevMax, to name a few, are great Companies with reputable Converters.
The bare minimum I would go with for any LS motor would be a 2600 stall. Now depending on a few things you may need a multi-disk converter. A higher stall will aid in a better launch and 60' times, maintain a certain rpm during shifting to keep the engine in the powerband. Now if you don't have a motor to back up your stall, you may end up going slower. A higher stall will cause more heat, so a trans cooler is recommended. It is generally not a good idea to throw in a random stall converter before you plan out your future mods, as well as not knowing the correct information when choosing a higher stall.
Last edited by 07NBSChevy; May 29, 2017 at 05:37 AM.
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From: North Jersey
98, that was a nice pick up in et!
The combination of the gears and the converter had to help the 60's.
When the 355 was in my car I switched from a 10" streetfighter to my 8" treemaster with the same 3.73's and slicks.
It only netted me a couple hundreds in the 60'
mid 1.7's to hi 1.6's and 11.74's
In ATI's defense, that converter was spec'd out for the 406 that's now in my nova.
TOTALLY different animal behind an engine with brutal torque.
VERY tight till you floor it. Then you better have both hands on the wheel.
I now have a 6F Circle D for the 80e and it is very similar to the much smaller treemaster.
Nice and tight till you floor it.
The combination of the gears and the converter had to help the 60's.
When the 355 was in my car I switched from a 10" streetfighter to my 8" treemaster with the same 3.73's and slicks.
It only netted me a couple hundreds in the 60'
mid 1.7's to hi 1.6's and 11.74's
In ATI's defense, that converter was spec'd out for the 406 that's now in my nova.
TOTALLY different animal behind an engine with brutal torque.
VERY tight till you floor it. Then you better have both hands on the wheel.
I now have a 6F Circle D for the 80e and it is very similar to the much smaller treemaster.
Nice and tight till you floor it.
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The 13.2 hooking to a 2.08 60'
The 12.2 hooking to a 1.71 60'
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From: Michigan
07NBS
my car is a 99 trans am
Ive ordered the 1 7/8 LT headers and a 3" true dual x pipe to go with it everything else is bone stock car only has 68k on it so it was a god find
Intentions of the car is to pretty much DD it only in the summer months along with taking some trips to the track and i was looking at the ms4 because i wanted the most out of my car n/a but then i didnt feel comfortable having to run a 4000+ stall converter in a street car but then again i dont know much about them i'm still learning the automatic game
On a side not i did youtube search and alot of people are running the yank 3600SS and it seems to work good for crusing when it "locks up"
my car is a 99 trans am
Ive ordered the 1 7/8 LT headers and a 3" true dual x pipe to go with it everything else is bone stock car only has 68k on it so it was a god find
Intentions of the car is to pretty much DD it only in the summer months along with taking some trips to the track and i was looking at the ms4 because i wanted the most out of my car n/a but then i didnt feel comfortable having to run a 4000+ stall converter in a street car but then again i dont know much about them i'm still learning the automatic game
On a side not i did youtube search and alot of people are running the yank 3600SS and it seems to work good for crusing when it "locks up"
Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
Right thats why im not going with the ms4 anymore and am searching other options and am also waiting to hear back from brian tooley with a recommendation to one of his cams
The TSP 228R .600/.600 112 would be a better choice for you, especially on a full bolt-on car with stock un-ported heads. That cam can run a 2600 stall but would be most ideal with a 3200-3600 stall.
The BTR LS1/2 Stage 2 227/234 .614/.576 113+2 cam would be a great cam from BTR. Which would work well with a 3600 Stall.
I would also run the BTR .660 Platinum Dual Springs with Titanium Retainers with your cam choice.
The MS4 cam would be for fully built engine and is not the most ideal for a daily. Especially since you would need a minimum of a 4200 stall and ideally a 4600 stall would be needed.
The BTR LS1/2 Stage 2 227/234 .614/.576 113+2 cam would be a great cam from BTR. Which would work well with a 3600 Stall.
I would also run the BTR .660 Platinum Dual Springs with Titanium Retainers with your cam choice.
The MS4 cam would be for fully built engine and is not the most ideal for a daily. Especially since you would need a minimum of a 4200 stall and ideally a 4600 stall would be needed.
With my 3.73's and SS3600 converter, the converter locks at 43mph. Honestly, after you put it in you will hardly notice it in daily driving. It's not like the old days where you would "feel" a big converter. This is a great combination. 2350 rpm at 70 mph on the freeway too.
Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
The TSP 228R .600/.600 112 would be a better choice for you, especially on a full bolt-on car with stock un-ported heads. That cam can run a 2600 stall but would be most ideal with a 3200-3600 stall.
The BTR LS1/2 Stage 2 227/234 .614/.576 113+2 cam would be a great cam from BTR. Which would work well with a 3600 Stall.
I would also run the BTR .660 Platinum Dual Springs with Titanium Retainers with your cam choice.
The MS4 cam would be for fully built engine and is not the most ideal for a daily. Especially since you would need a minimum of a 4200 stall and ideally a 4600 stall would be needed.
The BTR LS1/2 Stage 2 227/234 .614/.576 113+2 cam would be a great cam from BTR. Which would work well with a 3600 Stall.
I would also run the BTR .660 Platinum Dual Springs with Titanium Retainers with your cam choice.
The MS4 cam would be for fully built engine and is not the most ideal for a daily. Especially since you would need a minimum of a 4200 stall and ideally a 4600 stall would be needed.
The dyno run on that TSP cam looks vary promising and a guarantee of 50rwhp is pretty good aswell, I wish there was more information on the BTR cams of the RWHP and graphs I've only seen 1 dyno run and it was from a stage 2 in a vette and the power bands are not posted anywhere
Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
With my 3.73's and SS3600 converter, the converter locks at 43mph. Honestly, after you put it in you will hardly notice it in daily driving. It's not like the old days where you would "feel" a big converter. This is a great combination. 2350 rpm at 70 mph on the freeway too.
Right on I think im just going to get the yank 3600SS and then in the future if I need more stall ill send it in seems like a good overall stall
Thread Starter
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From: Michigan
hmmm 4,000 I guess I should go look at some videos of people driving them, I do want to DD this thing in the summer so I wouldnt want to go too high of a stall, how often do you drive your car with the 4000 stall?
these transmissions have lock up convertors , at low load they lock up 1 to 1 so they drive like stock at low throttle input/cruise speeds even with a high stall
here is a thought... people get a 3600 stall and wish they went bigger and send it in for the free restall to go up on the stall , go the other way and get a 4000 and if you don't like it send it back for the free restall down to 3600 and in the meantime you can get your pb pass at the track while its a 4000!!!
here is a thought... people get a 3600 stall and wish they went bigger and send it in for the free restall to go up on the stall , go the other way and get a 4000 and if you don't like it send it back for the free restall down to 3600 and in the meantime you can get your pb pass at the track while its a 4000!!!