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Hey all, I'm new here but hopefully someone can help me troubleshoot my issue. My 04 Avalanche has a 4l60e and I busted the forward sprag on a camping trip and lost 3rd and 4th. Now with a very tight budget I have pulled the tranny replaced just the sprag and reinstalled in the truck. I now have 1st, 2nd, 3rd and reverse but when I put the truck in drive it will act like it's in neutral then when you rev slightly it will make a loud clunk. It did go into drive once or twice and worked fine. Im thinking something is sticking so I'm going to try a flush with a seafoam's transmission cleaner and replacing the solenoids. Anyone know what else I could do?
Holding the sprag assembly like I am in the picture, where I have the arrow pointing should spin clock wise and lock counter clock wise. It is a one way roller clutch and can be installed backwards but will not work backwards.
Yeah I know it can be put in backwards, however I'm pretty sure I got it in right. Would 3rd still work if it was wrong because when I broke the last one I lost 3rd?
Readjust the shift cable, Check the shift cable & shift arm for damage.
If you removed the Manual Lever Position Switch/Neutral Safety Switch.....It will need to be adjusted, It being misadjusted will cause false readings by the gear indicator display.
Did you remove the Valve Body?
The only difference between D4-1st gear & D3-1st gear on a unmodified unit is that Line is routed to the D3 pressure switch, 3-2 Shift Valve, & 3-4 Shift Valve.
*The D3 PS just notifies the PCM that the manual valve is in the D3 position.
*D3 oil applied to the "backside" of 3-4 shift valve prevents 2-4 band apply/4th gear operation with the Manual Valve in the D3 position, Fail safe in case the PCM/Pressure Switches/Solenoids are malfunctioning.
*D3 oil applied to the 2-3 shift valve allows D3 oil to apply the Overrun Clutch when the 2-3 shift valve is in the "off" position.
So my guess is that the manual valve is not allowing Line into the D4 circuit even though the shift indicator is showing OD/4th.
I didn't remove the valve body or neutral safety switch, can you link me to the part I may need to replace as I'm not very familiar with parts in the valve body. This is my first time trying a rebuild myself
I didn't remove the valve body or neutral safety switch, can you link me to the part I may need to replace as I'm not very familiar with parts in the valve body. This is my first time trying a rebuild myself
Well.....We haven't diagnosed the issue as of yet, The burden of that falls squarely on your shoulders unless you want to bring it to my shop & pay me to fix it....In which I would 100% guarantee my work & diagnostics!
ALL I can do over this forum is give advise the best I can. I was just explaining how the D4 & D3 circuits differ from each other, And you NEED to check your own work far as the Shift Cable is concerned.
If you didn't pull the Valve Body....I don't see how anything in there would have got screwed up.....Other than the possibility that the Manual Valve Link got bent? Did you work the Pump out with a screwdriver?
I doubt your shop is close to me unless your in south Eastern Ky lol, but yeah I did work the pump out with a short pry bar. My question is if I bent the linkage wouldn't that mess the other gears up too? And how would I check the cable, I just removed the metal clip and removed it from the bracket and zip tied it out of the way
Lets get some clarity on the symptoms.
When you put the shifter into [D3], does the car move from a stop?
If yes, then the forward sprag is installed correctly.
Next, assuming [D3] works from a stop, does [D4] work from a stop?
If not, I would bet that the trans is not really in [D4] and instead is somewhere between [D4] and Neutral.
Read Clinebarger's posts very carefully, all the info you need to diagnose and fix the problem is there. It just may take a few re-reads to fully understand it.
Yes the truck will move forward inn D3 from a dead stop, it acts as if its in neutral in D4 how ever if you rev it slightly like your trying to take off as the rpm comes back down it will make a loud clunk and jerk forward
07-17-2017, 03:16 PM
Issues after rebuild 04 4l60e 
