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Noise coming from Flexplate

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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 05:58 PM
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Default Noise coming from Flexplate

4l60e with Hughs flexplate

The noise started about 50 miles after i got the car running.

I have used a stethoscope all over the engine and i was not able to hear that noise. It is definitely loudest right there at the flexplate. i have checked the bolts holding on the flexplate. One had backed out about 1 turn so i took it out put some locktite on it and put it back in. It still made the same sound

The noise is constant from when i first start the car to it being warmed up.

Does it look like my flexplate is warped a bit in the video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-YrD...ature=youtu.be

Last edited by Rezorector; Jan 18, 2018 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 06:27 PM
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Sounds like the plate might be cracked partially around the middle just a guess but that's is what sounds like to me
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 06:45 PM
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I have a borescope camera in the mail it will be here monday, i should be able to see around the middle of the flexplate with it. I will post my findings when i do.
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 06:54 PM
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Sounds a lot like your last clicking problem. Does the new sound increase with rpm?
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 07:01 PM
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Yes the noise does increase with RPM. the other clicking noise i was having has been fixed, it was a bad tune in the PCM.
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 08:16 PM
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Have you tried prying lightly on the flexplate through the inspection hole to see if its loose on the crank? If it's cracked you could possibly see/hear it also doing that. Just crank engine by hand to check in between all converter pads.
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Old Jan 18, 2018 | 09:19 PM
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Sounds like converter bolts hitting something.
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Old Jan 19, 2018 | 04:39 PM
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tried to get some pictures of the converter bolts, i do not see any wear from them hitting something, cant see the whole bolt but.















Last edited by Rezorector; Jan 19, 2018 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 01:31 AM
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Second to last pic actually looks like it might ba a crack below the bolt. Hard to tell for sure but that's where I'd start.

I'll also add that I've had flex plates fit over the crank pretty tight where I've had to beat them down flush before bolting them up. If not completely flush before bolting it down could cause some additional stress to it.
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Old Jan 20, 2018 | 02:27 PM
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In the second to last pic that is just some excess arp loctite that ran down.

The boroscope came in today, i looked all around in there the best i could and i was not able to see and signs of cracks or any bolts rubbing.

Maybe its time to find a shop that can look at it.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 04:26 PM
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I said the hell with it and dropped the transmission. So far i have found nothing

The flexplate looks good. All the bolts are seated all the way in, also checked the bolts on the other side of the converter on the trans, none of the show any signs of rubbing and they are all flush as well.

I am considering trying a different flexplate


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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 05:29 PM
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What flexplate is that?
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 06:14 PM
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Just something to consider are you sure the bolts are not bottomed out in the threads? They might still look tight against the flex plate but be bottomed out not ptting full force on the flex plate. I seen this before and it sounded similar.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 06:50 PM
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Its is the Hugh's flexplate Hughes Performance HP4004X-EBP. Not sure why i went with that one now, i did also have an issue with the starter hitting the flexplate until i put a shim in the starter.

They should be the correct ARP bolts for this application. Any way to test if they are bottomed out or not without taking off the flexplate or should i just pull that off, then see how far the bolts will go in?
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RockinWs6
Just something to consider are you sure the bolts are not bottomed out in the threads? They might still look tight against the flex plate but be bottomed out not ptting full force on the flex plate. I seen this before and it sounded similar.
The bolts are clear out the back until they run into the #5 main cap, so if they are to long they are currently digging in and filling the pan with shavings.
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Rezorector
Its is the Hugh's flexplate Hughes Performance HP4004X-EBP. Not sure why i went with that one now, i did also have an issue with the starter hitting the flexplate until i put a shim in the starter.

They should be the correct ARP bolts for this application. Any way to test if they are bottomed out or not without taking off the flexplate or should i just pull that off, then see how far the bolts will go in?
Flex plate to converter bolts, now that they are apart just put a bolt in the converter and see if the head of the bolt bottoms out against the converter.

Never would have guessed flexplate to crank bolts but that is a definite possibility to. Pull them out and see if there is some interference marks on the end of them.
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Old Jan 27, 2018 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Crf450r420
The bolts are clear out the back until they run into the #5 main cap, so if they are to long they are currently digging in and filling the pan with shavings.
Yep in this case this wouldn't be a problem.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 07:57 PM
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But after thinking about it maybe possible the holes are not threaded all the way through and may bottom out anyway. I don't have a crank here I can check.
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Old Jan 28, 2018 | 08:49 PM
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I will be taking off the flexplate tomorrow and installing a different one. Will also check all the bolt lengths and see if any bottom out or are binding up.
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Old Jan 30, 2018 | 11:48 PM
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Let us know how you make out. I'm very curious to see what the issue was/is.
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