Transmission overfilled after driving?
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey everyone, little stumped on this one. Thought I would ask the question while I dig into it more on Saturday. See if you know what is going on. Search on here and google leading me to dead ends.
So the car I am putting together (98 V6 LQ4 swap Firebird) has a 60e connected behind it. I had to drop the pan a few months back to put in a new filter. When I got it there was not one. While did that I replaced the gasket as well and filled up fluid to cold level on dipstick. Drove it about quarter mile, checked level and all was good. Drove another 2-3 miles, still good level.
Two weekends ago I flushed the radiator to take it out on the maiden voyage to make sure everything was good. Shifted well and drove nice. As the drive went on I noticed it seemed to slip a bit on the way back home. Thought I would look into it once I got it home. There were no leaks or anything at all and everything seemed ok. Parked it in the garage and went inside the house. Came out an hour later to see it puked ATF all over the floor. About half a quart or so. It was leaking around the oil pan gasket. I noticed there was dip in the pan. So I can see it was not sealing well there. Easy enough to fix. However I was wondering why it would leak all of a sudden around the pan. I checked the level and it was WAY overfilled.
Do you know why this would be? The trans lines do not seem to be plugged or anything, they drain (or did right before the longer drive) and the fluid looks great. I will drain the return portion and start it a second to remove some fluid. But I am wondering if anyone has had this issue?
So the car I am putting together (98 V6 LQ4 swap Firebird) has a 60e connected behind it. I had to drop the pan a few months back to put in a new filter. When I got it there was not one. While did that I replaced the gasket as well and filled up fluid to cold level on dipstick. Drove it about quarter mile, checked level and all was good. Drove another 2-3 miles, still good level.
Two weekends ago I flushed the radiator to take it out on the maiden voyage to make sure everything was good. Shifted well and drove nice. As the drive went on I noticed it seemed to slip a bit on the way back home. Thought I would look into it once I got it home. There were no leaks or anything at all and everything seemed ok. Parked it in the garage and went inside the house. Came out an hour later to see it puked ATF all over the floor. About half a quart or so. It was leaking around the oil pan gasket. I noticed there was dip in the pan. So I can see it was not sealing well there. Easy enough to fix. However I was wondering why it would leak all of a sudden around the pan. I checked the level and it was WAY overfilled.
Do you know why this would be? The trans lines do not seem to be plugged or anything, they drain (or did right before the longer drive) and the fluid looks great. I will drain the return portion and start it a second to remove some fluid. But I am wondering if anyone has had this issue?
#2
Launching!
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My Transmission Guy recently mentioned something about a check valve right before he told me I needed to replace the pump...
-KP
-KP
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Only thing I can think of right now is it was just overfilled in the first place. I checked last night (after sitting for 5 days) and it was back down to the cold mark.
Now, reason I think it might be overfilled in the first place now is because I DID have to modify the dipstick tube a bit. Trans tube and dipstick are from an S10. So it had to be bent a little at bottom and top portion to sneak by the firewall and not hit it. Guessing what that did is shortened the reading and it has too much fluid in it. However it would go from the cold mark to about 2 marks over hot. Guessing from frothing?
I plan to drain about a quart out and drive it a few miles on Saturday. See if it will shift correctly after warmed up and keep a decent level. Also not puke ATF all over after parked. That was fun to clean up lol.
Now, reason I think it might be overfilled in the first place now is because I DID have to modify the dipstick tube a bit. Trans tube and dipstick are from an S10. So it had to be bent a little at bottom and top portion to sneak by the firewall and not hit it. Guessing what that did is shortened the reading and it has too much fluid in it. However it would go from the cold mark to about 2 marks over hot. Guessing from frothing?
I plan to drain about a quart out and drive it a few miles on Saturday. See if it will shift correctly after warmed up and keep a decent level. Also not puke ATF all over after parked. That was fun to clean up lol.
#4
TECH Junkie
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you checking the fluid level while the vehicle is running?
Bending the dipstick tube will not effect level readings.
I always over fill my 4l60e a quart over the full line to prevent oil starvation during wot shifts with zero issues.
About how many quarts do you think are in your transmission?
My guess is after the radiator flush you caused a leak in the transmission cooler in the radiator and in turn you now have coolant in your transmission fluid which is not good and a rebuild is in your near future. A good reason to bypass the radiator cooler and just run a stand alone tranny cooler.
Drop the pan and post up a picture of what the fluid looks like.
Where in Minnesota you at?
Bending the dipstick tube will not effect level readings.
I always over fill my 4l60e a quart over the full line to prevent oil starvation during wot shifts with zero issues.
About how many quarts do you think are in your transmission?
My guess is after the radiator flush you caused a leak in the transmission cooler in the radiator and in turn you now have coolant in your transmission fluid which is not good and a rebuild is in your near future. A good reason to bypass the radiator cooler and just run a stand alone tranny cooler.
Drop the pan and post up a picture of what the fluid looks like.
Where in Minnesota you at?
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That thought went through my head with the coolant. Unless it’s just sitting at the bottom of the pan the fluid on dipstick and top coolant line is clean. Look good. I will pull pan on Saturday and snap a couple pictures.
15 miles west of Mankato, MN is where I’m located.
Was thinking about drilling a hole in pan and see if water comes out first and if not replace with new pan with drain fitting.
I think I will block off cooler fittings, flush system, and get a decent cooler for trans. When that time comes.
15 miles west of Mankato, MN is where I’m located.
Was thinking about drilling a hole in pan and see if water comes out first and if not replace with new pan with drain fitting.
I think I will block off cooler fittings, flush system, and get a decent cooler for trans. When that time comes.
Last edited by codemanrose; 03-15-2018 at 11:47 AM.
#7
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Are you checking the fluid level while the vehicle is running?
Bending the dipstick tube will not effect level readings.
I always over fill my 4l60e a quart over the full line to prevent oil starvation during wot shifts with zero issues.
About how many quarts do you think are in your transmission?
My guess is after the radiator flush you caused a leak in the transmission cooler in the radiator and in turn you now have coolant in your transmission fluid which is not good and a rebuild is in your near future. A good reason to bypass the radiator cooler and just run a stand alone tranny cooler.
Drop the pan and post up a picture of what the fluid looks like.
Where in Minnesota you at?
Bending the dipstick tube will not effect level readings.
I always over fill my 4l60e a quart over the full line to prevent oil starvation during wot shifts with zero issues.
About how many quarts do you think are in your transmission?
My guess is after the radiator flush you caused a leak in the transmission cooler in the radiator and in turn you now have coolant in your transmission fluid which is not good and a rebuild is in your near future. A good reason to bypass the radiator cooler and just run a stand alone tranny cooler.
Drop the pan and post up a picture of what the fluid looks like.
Where in Minnesota you at?
This is what I thought as soon as I heard you had done a rad flush. You may have coolant in the trans . The coolant will sit on the bottom as oil is lighter than water.
Last edited by qweedqwag; 03-15-2018 at 12:13 PM. Reason: more
Trending Topics
#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just ordered a new pan (other one has a dent in it where it's leaking around gasket). So I will just drill a hole in it. Catch the fluid in case it's still good but if I see coolant then that would be the answer. I will remove it too and check where the line meets too. Thanks guys! Will get back once that is done this weekend.
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Overheated in 2-3 miles? Without getting on it very much? It only slipped a bit on the way back, about a quarter mile away from home when I gave it half throttle. Otherwise it was fine.
Won't be upset if it's trashed. I can use it for core and swap to the 80e like my original plan was for this build. But would be nice to get a summer out of it if it's something little.
Won't be upset if it's trashed. I can use it for core and swap to the 80e like my original plan was for this build. But would be nice to get a summer out of it if it's something little.
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks! I actually have braided hose and -6 an fittings to the stock cooler now. So would only need the cooler. Will see what inside the pan looks like tomorrow.
Do you have a recommendation of best placement of it? Was always wondering where most place their external coolers.
Do you have a recommendation of best placement of it? Was always wondering where most place their external coolers.
#14
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Don't use regular rubber braided hose for a trans cooler. Your best bet is PTFE/Teflon. Also, instead of drilling through your pan, I would use a sharp awl. This will be much more controlled since the awl will plug the hole after you punch it. You'll have much less mess all over you and the drill this way.
#15
TECH Junkie
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks! I actually have braided hose and -6 an fittings to the stock cooler now. So would only need the cooler. Will see what inside the pan looks like tomorrow.
Do you have a recommendation of best placement of it? Was always wondering where most place their external coolers.
Do you have a recommendation of best placement of it? Was always wondering where most place their external coolers.
When I had the condenser there I had it spaced the same off the condenser. You can remove the fans and use radiator ties to strap it down