The rebuild kit I bought came with a .500 boost valve. I didn't disassemble the pump yet or the valve body, so I don't know what "they" did or did not install in this stage II build...LOL. I probably won't have time until next week some time.

 

Is it normal for the reverse input pressure plate and clutches to show heat marks on them? The pressure plate is slightly coned as well. The frictions look new!

Is this normal wear?
Maybe the previous owner autocrossed a lot in manual 1st gear? I will be replacing all those parts.

 

Mild heat marks are normal. Are you sure the reverse input pressure plate is coned?

The clutches in the reverse input drum are only applied in reverse.

 

The reverse input apply plate is supposed to be coned to cushion the apply. Some people use the old model waved plates.
This clutch freewheels in 2nd and 4th so small clearance and other things can cause drag and heat marks.
The pressure plate is the one under the snap ring. I'm assuming you're not talking about that being coned because that's near impossible, it would break first and the clutches and steels would be black.

 

Hey guys ,I am talking about the pressure plate directly under the large snap ring. here is a pic of the warpage.
Being a newbie novice at the trans rebuild I don't know what clutches are applied or not through out operation. I thought I read somewhere the reverse input was applied in manual 1st.I want to learn it all though

 

When manual 1st is selected it is the low/rev clutch that engages. It is the piston and clutches at the very bottom of the case. It is also engaged in reverse and park.

 

AH...that is probably what I read before , low/reverse applies in manual 1st. Thanks

 

Here are a couple illustrations that may come in handy to reference.

 

WOOO...Awsome! Thanks man

 

I had a little time today to use towards my trans rebuild and found one of the 2 very small holes in the reverse input clutch apply piston was plugged. with what I couldn't tell. Air pressure and brake clean didn't clear it. I was able to clear it by using a piece of copper safety wire. I kept on poking at it and it finally went through it. Could this small orifice being plugged have anything to have caused the burning and or coning of this clutch pack?