Cooler Thoughts........
Cooler Thoughts........ So my 20 year old 344,000 mile Faithful 1998 Camaro Z28 is going in next week for a rear main seal replacement and A4 4L60E rebuild. I've been reading for hours here this morning on aftermarket trans coolers. I'm seeking some experienced opinions. This is a DD and nothing else so do I really need a cooler? I have a concern about this 20 year old radiator destroying my soon to be Newly rebuilt upgraded Transmission. If I do not really need a cooler then I've been looking at a new radiator, ranging in price from $85 to $300 and let that cool the trans. If it is a real good thing to have a cooler and just disconnect the Trans from the radiator I've been eyeing up this little unit. What do you think?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tru-Cool-45...53.m1438.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tru-Cool-45...53.m1438.l2649
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 686
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From: Thibodaux LA
id do the cooler. if you are dropping the money for a rebuild, then add the cooler. if the radiator is working fine, just leave it and bypass the internal "cooler" its more of a temperature regulator. keeping the trans fluid around the same temp as the coolant.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Yes, the recommended 70264 will replace the cooler in the radiator and is the better option.
While you are thinking of instead installing a new radiator, I recall a post where the OP installed a brand new cheapo $125 radiator and its internal trans cooler failed within a month and ruined the new trans. So if you do chose a new radiator (no one is recommending that), at least get an OEM quality one.
While you are thinking of instead installing a new radiator, I recall a post where the OP installed a brand new cheapo $125 radiator and its internal trans cooler failed within a month and ruined the new trans. So if you do chose a new radiator (no one is recommending that), at least get an OEM quality one.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: White Bear, Mn
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Yes, the recommended 70264 will replace the cooler in the radiator and is the better option.
While you are thinking of instead installing a new radiator, I recall a post where the OP installed a brand new cheapo $125 radiator and its internal trans cooler failed within a month and ruined the new trans. So if you do chose a new radiator (no one is recommending that), at least get an OEM quality one.
While you are thinking of instead installing a new radiator, I recall a post where the OP installed a brand new cheapo $125 radiator and its internal trans cooler failed within a month and ruined the new trans. So if you do chose a new radiator (no one is recommending that), at least get an OEM quality one.
Do I need to install a guage?
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Verdad Gallardo
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
You can, or an OBD scan tool can pull the reading from the computer, it already has a sensor in the valvebody. Ive found transmission temps to be predictable based on 2 things, driving style/condition and ambient air temp. If you log stop and go in the summer that will be about the max your trans will see. If it is acceptable, then your cooling system is sufficient.
If you wanna convert over to AN lines and stuff there are better coolers out there then 70264 due to it having barbed not threaded fittings. For your application, use the 264, and it has supplied adapters already in the package that let you connect and extend the stock lines. Its a complete kit. If for some reason you decide to mount it out of the direct airflow path buy a cheap ebay fan and wire it to the cooler.
If you wanna convert over to AN lines and stuff there are better coolers out there then 70264 due to it having barbed not threaded fittings. For your application, use the 264, and it has supplied adapters already in the package that let you connect and extend the stock lines. Its a complete kit. If for some reason you decide to mount it out of the direct airflow path buy a cheap ebay fan and wire it to the cooler.
I try to tell people that being Nice is Free.
Just my opinion, but if its been ok up to this point, I would leave it alone-certainly a cooler is a good idea, if you do use one get the Teflon braided hose, a little tricky putting the ends on, but better than the rubber stuff.
I ran mine at the back of the car. B&M 70298 Transmission temps are good. Its mounted kinda under the electrical bulkhead on the drivers side behind the back seat exterior of vehicle. Ive got the MWC fab 9" still fits. Build some brackets to elevate it off the metal about an inch to provide adequate cooler flow. Fan is a puller fan. Works great!
I'm not quite sure what you are trying to say but.... my original OEM radiator has 344,000 miles on it. Are you saying I should stick with that?
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
We just had another post where the OP's rubber hose clamp for the trans cooling lines failed, ruining the transmission.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...2-3-shift.html
There are plenty of sad stories here about rubber cooling lines failing.
Hence the strong suggestion to use AN lines and especially Teflon AN lines which have advantages, including that their smaller outside diameter makes then easier to route.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...2-3-shift.html
There are plenty of sad stories here about rubber cooling lines failing.
Hence the strong suggestion to use AN lines and especially Teflon AN lines which have advantages, including that their smaller outside diameter makes then easier to route.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,614
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From: Iowa
If you have a lowered car, and get a cast aluminum deep pan...any clearance issue between that pan and the ground calls for a huge crack, all the fluid dumped, and a smoked trans if you don't catch it in time.
I personally prefer a stock GM deep pan with drain plug, and just an adequately sized cooler. Anybody should be able to find a cooler adequate for whatever they're doing and the aluminum pan is often ridiculously overpriced compared to a steel pan.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
I replaced my stock pan with this - no issues https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...xoCjmMQAvD_BwE
As far as cooler, I'm running the B&M 70266 with 6AN lines, in series with my radiator cooler. I used the stock hot side metal line to the radiator, the out of the radiator is a 6AN to the B&M. Then I cut the cool side line and put a compression AN fitting and ran a AN line from the B&M to the cut metal line.
As far as cooler, I'm running the B&M 70266 with 6AN lines, in series with my radiator cooler. I used the stock hot side metal line to the radiator, the out of the radiator is a 6AN to the B&M. Then I cut the cool side line and put a compression AN fitting and ran a AN line from the B&M to the cut metal line.
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 223
Likes: 31
From: Bismarck, ND
Yup that was Ugly We just had another post where the OP's rubber hose clamp for the trans cooling lines failed, ruining the transmission.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...2-3-shift.html
There are plenty of sad stories here about rubber cooling lines failing.
Hence the strong suggestion to use AN lines and especially Teflon AN lines which have advantages, including that their smaller outside diameter makes then easier to route.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...2-3-shift.html
There are plenty of sad stories here about rubber cooling lines failing.
Hence the strong suggestion to use AN lines and especially Teflon AN lines which have advantages, including that their smaller outside diameter makes then easier to route.
My next mod is going to be better cooler lines. I did reroute the lines to go from the tranny- to the stock radiator cooler - to the extra cooler in front of the radiator with a remote bypass valve. When I originally had it plumbed this way the tranny would not warm up in the cold North Dakota winters but now with a higher stall converter I will need better cooling. For the 175 miles that i driven it the remote bypass works well, we will see when it gets summer time hot!