Stall choice for custom cam
What is the car going to be used for? Track or street? I'm no auto expert, but I would think that you'd want something in the range of a 3600+. A buddy of mine went straight to a yank SS4000 on his low boost Procharged LS1 and loved it.
Its gonna be used as a DD. Just want a stall to support my cam thats all.
If this is your first stall converter and a cam only car you will probably want something closer to the 3000-3600 range. A lot of the members here prefer higher stall converters(as do I) and will recommend as such but for a first timer/daily type setup we recommend this range.
If you go with one of the 9.5" billet converters they come with 1 year 1 free restall so we can always adjust the converter to your liking once you have a feel for how a stall converter will drive.
Shoot me a PM or email if you would like further help picking out a converter.
-Dalton
If you go with one of the 9.5" billet converters they come with 1 year 1 free restall so we can always adjust the converter to your liking once you have a feel for how a stall converter will drive.
Shoot me a PM or email if you would like further help picking out a converter.
-Dalton
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
My 6.0 (364ci) has a 227/234 cam, also a 113LSA. I went FTI 3200 single disk (SRLS0082) and love it. It feels perfect for the car/cam. My tuner made a comment that he really likes how it locks up. My car isn't a DD, but I tend to sit in a lot of traffic. Any higher stall would have been too much for the stop and go that I run into. If you daily yours, this would be a good choice IMO.
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 474
Likes: 60
From: Woodbridge, Ct
Just from my recent experience FTI is giving you some good advice, On my first converter ever purchase I went with the Circle D billet series at 36-3800, my converter just got restalled last week to 30-3200 (also free) because mine is also just a DD and I preferred it tighter. Can't wait to get the car back!!
welcome fellow frozen tundra artic circle driver. i have a 3k stall & kinda wish i'd gone with 3600. (most bang for your buck). pop for the billet convertor then hang on! cheers!
Last edited by DANOZ28; Apr 12, 2018 at 09:12 AM.
My setup is 3.23s' and stock engine(no mods,do much travelling and want the reliability of stock).
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 76
Likes: 1
My setup is 3.23s' and stock engine(no mods,do much travelling and want the reliability of stock).
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.