Stall choice for custom cam
What is the car going to be used for? Track or street? I'm no auto expert, but I would think that you'd want something in the range of a 3600+. A buddy of mine went straight to a yank SS4000 on his low boost Procharged LS1 and loved it.
Its gonna be used as a DD. Just want a stall to support my cam thats all.
If this is your first stall converter and a cam only car you will probably want something closer to the 3000-3600 range. A lot of the members here prefer higher stall converters(as do I) and will recommend as such but for a first timer/daily type setup we recommend this range.
If you go with one of the 9.5" billet converters they come with 1 year 1 free restall so we can always adjust the converter to your liking once you have a feel for how a stall converter will drive.
Shoot me a PM or email if you would like further help picking out a converter.
-Dalton
If you go with one of the 9.5" billet converters they come with 1 year 1 free restall so we can always adjust the converter to your liking once you have a feel for how a stall converter will drive.
Shoot me a PM or email if you would like further help picking out a converter.
-Dalton
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
FTIPerformance.com
FTI Converter build sheet
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My 6.0 (364ci) has a 227/234 cam, also a 113LSA. I went FTI 3200 single disk (SRLS0082) and love it. It feels perfect for the car/cam. My tuner made a comment that he really likes how it locks up. My car isn't a DD, but I tend to sit in a lot of traffic. Any higher stall would have been too much for the stop and go that I run into. If you daily yours, this would be a good choice IMO.
Just from my recent experience FTI is giving you some good advice, On my first converter ever purchase I went with the Circle D billet series at 36-3800, my converter just got restalled last week to 30-3200 (also free) because mine is also just a DD and I preferred it tighter. Can't wait to get the car back!!
welcome fellow frozen tundra artic circle driver. i have a 3k stall & kinda wish i'd gone with 3600. (most bang for your buck). pop for the billet convertor then hang on! cheers!
Last edited by DANOZ28; Apr 12, 2018 at 09:12 AM.
My setup is 3.23s' and stock engine(no mods,do much travelling and want the reliability of stock).
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.
My setup is 3.23s' and stock engine(no mods,do much travelling and want the reliability of stock).
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.
2006 put in a TCI 2800(big mistake,a stock off the shelf unit),very loose in city and top end. 2011 put in a Yank SS3600(the tranny was being replaced due to a broken sprag and since the tranny was out,a good time to put in the Yank). Very tight in city driving. Neither convertor was 'tuned' as it's strictly a street/DD. Never had any codes thrown or questionable unusual shift points,whatever was in the computer was fine.
I've let other locals(that had concerns about how high a stall to go/fear of higher stall) drive it in city traffic. ALL were amazed how 'tight' it is and no annoying higher rpm slippage. One was coming from a TCI 3000 'streetfighter' and how his 3000 is loose compared to the tightness of my SS3600.













