RTV under pump bolts
The 4L80 is done, just waiting on some free time to put it in.
Upon finishing it, I torqued the pump bolts to spec with the little O-rings under them. Torquing these bolts to spec absolutely destroyed the O-rings...... I put O-rings back on a SECOND time and tried again but the same thing happened, 18 LB-Ft and the damn things are just chewed to bits.
So, I pulled the pump bolts back out and put a small dab of high temp RTV on the threads and a decent amount under the flanged head of the bolt itself. I think this will work just fine to seal it up but does anyone see a problem with doing it this way???
Or are they regular bolts?
I often wonder if the o-rings crush enough so I sometimes add some rtv, and wipe off any excess.
Never had any o-ring tear up upon installation, let alone multiple sets.
If you put an o ring on the flat washer type, it's going to chew it to hell. And the flat washers should really only be single time use. I never put RTV on any pump bolts, because you shouldn't need it. I don't think it would hurt anything, but I just think it looks tacky when I give a customer back their trans and it looks held together by RTV.
Started it up for the first time and ran it for all of 5 seconds just to suck some fluid up into the valve body and pump. Course had to shut it off since the cooler fittings are open, started dripping a little bit of fluid out. Waiting on some fittings and AN line to get here in a few days to plumb into the large cooler I mounted before I try to run it again. Got plenty to do on the project in the meantime.
So far though, the RTV on the bolts seems like it will do the job, even though like y'all mentioned it's probably overkill.
I have a AutoMeter temp gauge which I brazed a fitting for into the pan. Of course it leaks so back to the drawing board on that one hahaha. You guys got any input on connecting up an aftermarket temp gauge fitting like that???? My next thing to try will be getting a fitting of that thread that is steel so I can actually weld it to the pan.
And yes, the RTV can be wiped and look totally fine, its just not the way I like to do it. If it looks fine and is sealing, then send that thing down the road!
When you put a Fel Pro oil pan gasket on an LS engine, do you smear RTV on the engine block, and oil pan? No? Exactly. Just not necessary. All LS engine gaskets are to be installed dry for a reason. Same with your pump bolts.
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Just because GM did or didn't do something doesn't mean much to me. They have had a lot of really great ideas, but also a lot of bad ones. The door pin and bushing design on the 88-98 obs trucks come to mind. Another one is their decision to use a dropbase air cleaner on the 80s and 90s cars and trucks and then tossing on the little choke collar underneath it to space the air cleaner back up so it wouldn't hit the coil. The reasons for this are probably varied, trying to cut assembly costs... Or perhaps the inevitable oversight of a bunch of engineer and MBA types with extensive theoretical "knowledge" but little to no real world experience.
I have two 4L80s here, both having the same type of pump bolts. I used the Orings that were for the pump but they didn't cut it so I decided to use RTV instead of dicking around with finding the "correct" pump bolt o rings again. The trans has been in for a couple days now and the RTV is working great and you cant tell it's even there.
Sure, the LS gaskets are all supposed to be "dry". But after taking my water pump off a half dozen times to meticulously clean and prep the gasket matting surfaces to try to stop a leak I finally decided to "break the rules" and use some high tack sealant along with the gaskets. It stopped my leak. I'm not the only one to have done this and while it may technically not be the "correct" way I couldn't care less simply because it solved the problem. Maybe with a bunch more aggravation I could have figured out a way to dry install the gaskets like they were intended and not have a leak. I'd rather hammer that **** together and move on so that's what I did hahaha.
I'm either a grade A hack, or just a jack of all trades because I can do anything with what I have available and figure out a way to make it work one way or another. PCM tuning, wiring, automatics, manuals, transfer cases, differentials, engines, paint and body, home made turbo system fabrication, fuel injector decapping and flow testing. I'm a jack of all hacks hahaha.
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Second, you can't tell its even there.
What do you do thats not "by the book?" Theres something, theres always something. I bet it's worse than rtv hidden under a pump bolt.
1. Valley cover
2. Knock sensors
3. Rubber seals
This is the order that I think things to go, but maybe I'm wrong.
I do have a "How To Rebuild GM LS Engine" manual but it does not cover, or even show, these rubber gaskets.
1-rtv under the pump bolts is fine. Its not my preferred way, but it works and doesnt hurt anything, so I'm not going to tell anybody that they shouldn't do it
2-kawa whoever needs one or two chill pills
3-calling people hacks is probably not going to have any positive results.

Oh, and just as a fun little side note to kawa...yes, you do use a little dab of RTV each and every time you change an oil pan gasket on an LS. so did the factory...where the pan meets up with the timing cover and rear oil seal cover...you need a touch of rtv











