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4l60e slip and bump on take off

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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 10:03 AM
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Default 4l60e slip and bump on take off

Maybe some of you transmission experts can give me a hand. I have a fresh rebuilt 4l60e that has a brief slip and bump on take off. It's intermittent and completely random. Feels like the truck doesn't want to move for maybe a second then a soft bump and off it goes. Also having an occasional issue where the converter locks and unlocks randomly. Manually locking the converter in 1st with brakes on will stall the engine when cold but not hot it only lightly bogs and the TCC slips. Any ideas?

2006 Colorado 4x4
3000 re-stalled converter
Rebuilt pump
New raybestos clutches
New molded pistons
New bushings and seals
hd sunshell
HD2 Transgo kit
New solenoids
new forward sprag
Pinless accumulators
Vette servo

90 psi idle and cruise
230 psi under load
160° trans temp max

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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 07:01 PM
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I would suspect low transmission fluid. It took a lot more trans fluid than I expected to fill my 4L60E and purge air out of the cooling lines than I expected.

Rick
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 08:03 PM
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I hoped it was that simple but I don't think it is. I've tried half a quart low, right at full and half a quart high. The behavior doesn't change.
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 09:17 PM
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Sounds like you are possible leaking AFL oil not enough pressure to push the valve to the 1st gear position at idle and or low line pressure , when you give a little throttle pressure rises and the valve strokes so it jumps down into first. Could be a leaking or faulty shift solenoid or Oring the lockup issue when hot could be related, I would first do a pressure test at idle
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 09:19 PM
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I appreciate the reply! Here are a couple videos that show what I've found so far. Maybe it will help.

https://vimeo.com/299136193
https://vimeo.com/299136544
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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It appears as I suspected to be a pressure issue, The second video of driving is odd to me , The pressure rise is not steady but step like sudden jumps which is ODD. could be a sticking AFL VALVE or perhaps broken spring, Also perhaps a sticky Pressure control solenoid, Or even a bad TPS I would of course start easiest first and either replace or observe the TPS function to see if its jumpy like the line pressure, Then the PCS and AFL valve.
But for whatever reason the bump I would say if low AFL not enough pressure to stroke the 1-2 shift valve causing momentary second gear starts.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 09:16 AM
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Thank you. That gives me a place to start. I have been logging some transmission pids against speed, rpm and throttle position and all is smooth and normal with the tps. As far as the AFL valve, I only pulled it out, cleaned it and installed the additional Transgo spring. Do you recommend reaming it out and installing the sonnax valve?
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 10:13 AM
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I suggest vacuum testing the valve body before loading up the parts cannon.

A vacuum test will tell you where your leaks are and what parts you need to remedy the leak.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 04:50 PM
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Today I logged force motor/PCS current. The commanded current to the solenoid matches up with the pressure gauge reading. The PCM's signal sent to the PCS solenoid is not a smooth curve. It's very abrupt. I verified the force motor table is stock. This seems to indicate that the line pressure is doing exactly what the PCM is telling it to and it's not a sticky valve causing the erratic line pressure rise. The random low pressure at idle problem continues and the PCM is commanding the same PCS current at idle every time. I'll link a log video to show what I'm talking about.

https://vimeo.com/299327385
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 04:57 PM
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The blue line at the bottom shows the PCS current command from the PCM. It matches the pressure gauge. Too bad I can't graph out the trans pressure.
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 05:18 PM
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Another log in HPT format.
Attached Files
File Type: hpl
translog hpt.hpl (416.9 KB, 57 views)
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 06:26 PM
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Well if the force motor current is the same with either pressure condition , I would have to think a valve or solenoid issue, A leak while possible would IMO tend to be consistent . Not up one time and down the next but anything is possible .
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 09:17 AM
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I have another good valve body. I'm going to swap it in and see what it does. If that doesn't work and I'm looking for a leak it's going to be something in the forward clutch circuit correct? Nothing else is applied in D1?
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 12:48 PM
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in d1 the following is applied:

-forward clutch
-low/rev clutch
-overrun clutch

The pressure usually does jump around like that and the force motor current does as well. You should also log maf/map/tps when logging the pcs current and you will see that there is a fairly decent method for the madness that you see in the graph. The pcm is only giving pressure (controlled by FM amperage) when you actually need it.

If the new valve body fixes your issue...it's more than likely a function of AFL bore wear or another significant internal leak to the valve body.
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 01:20 PM
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Ok thanks for the info. It happens in Drive in 1st gear only. I don't think it happens in manual 1st but I will try it again tonight. Maybe I worded it wrong. I'm working off of this:
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Old Nov 7, 2018 | 02:40 PM
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Yes that's correct. When people say D1 they typically mean manually selecting 1st gear.
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Old Nov 9, 2018 | 08:40 AM
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I've been avoiding swapping the valve body. I really want to figure this out so last night I installed a sonnax TCC apply valve with the seal on it. I had one laying around and the TCC has acted up a couple times so I figured why not. I also worked all the valves I could get to with a screwdriver and pulled and cleaned the solenoids that I could get to.

Drove around for an hour and the slip and bump/low pressure never happened again. More surprising, the part throttle 1-2 shift is a lot less harsh now. How those two are related I don't know. I'll test some more tonight.
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Old Nov 18, 2018 | 05:35 PM
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I didn't want to leave this thread open ended. So the problem continued after my last reply.I ended up taking the valve body apart and I found a piece of aluminum stuck in orifice 22 of the separator plate. I assume this was some junk from the new cooler. I also found the forward abuse valve was sticking. It was really hard to remove. I replaced the forward abuse valve with the sonnax valve. Everything is good now I appreciate all the help!
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