good point.

Been bothering me all weekend to know if it’s definitely the trans or the motor. It being locked it what had me stumped. So I had an epiphany. Dummy, crank it and put in gear real quick. Duh. So I did. Cringing from the noise I rushed to put it in reverse. Nothing. It’s definitely the trans. Whew. I’m ok with that. I think the rotor exploded or the input broke.

Ok. Pulled it out this evening. I was right. That piece of **** patc induction hardened shaft shattered. What garbage. I even called and asked their opinion on it and was told they hadn’t had one break. Maybe no one ever used one but me? Anyways, here’s some pics for your viewing pleasure.

Well I just talked to the owner of patc. I wasn’t expecting much help, but I figured I’d explain the situation and at least ask. It was a waste of my time to be honest. Basically he wanted to refund me $59 for the input shaft and put that towards a sonnax shaft which he sells over priced at $299 which I can get for $220 so I’d be out $20 more that way. I don’t want to use his output shaft either anymore so I thought he’d credit me back on that. Nope. I paid $169 for that shaft. It’s probably a good shaft for a lesser power setup but at this point I don’t want to chance it. Maybe I can sell it, it’s a new factory corvette 4l65 shaft. Which is supposed to be a tick better than the 4l60 shaft. O well. I’m not sure what I want to do at this point. So let me throw this out there to you guys.

Should i I get the sonnax output too?
Should I get a billet pump rotor? I turn it to 7000 on the regular

I posting this in my turbo build thread because everyone was on me about swapping to a 80e. I want to, but I can’t right now. But here’s my explanation I wrote:


Look my dudes. You are right. I should give up on the 60. No doubt. It’s a weak *** piece of ****. However. I like to drive my car. And I’m going insane not driving it. I know you guys are gonna think I’m dumb. And I’m being hard headed. But I have good reasons why. This is how I’m looking at it. I can spend $300 on an input shaft and have my car running. Or I can spend thousands to upgrade. Which would take me a few more months. Car sitting. Wife bitching because it’s in jack stands (I’m not putting it on the ground, it takes 30 minutes to get it up high like I have it...long story) then after I stop breaking transmissions, I’ll start breaks rear end parts. And it’s 3 grand to upgrade everything in the back. I don’t have that kind of cash right now. Things will be getting better for me next year. Without going into details of my financial situation, I’ve had several expenses increase that were unexpected and put a burden on me. Next year some changes are being made. So I’ve got to wing it for now. If I was better off financially, it would be getting an 80e and rear axle upgrades and a built motor. Poor guy on a budget trying to go fast(ish) kind of thing. So bear with me fellas, eventually I’ll get there. Luckily labor is free for me. And a lot of parts I have. So it’s not that bad at this point. I know what I should do, but I’m doing what I CAN do....for now.

HEAVY DUTY SPRAG HUB

Part Number: SOX-74574HD

yea I saw that. I haven’t had an issue with mine but I think it’s because I’m using the hd 2-3 shift valve that locks the over runs. I talked to a few people and got their input on it and they said it’s not worth doing in my case.

well honestly all I can do is guess. Car went 11.20 @125 leaving very soft and my crossover pipe v band clamp was broken so the pipe was leaking bad and I was dropping boost. That’s fixed now. If I had to put a number on it, I’d say 550-600 rear and with the exhaust fixed it should trap about 128-130.