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4l60e 500whp?

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Old May 23, 2019 | 07:55 PM
  #21  
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Give me a call. By the way, you are getting good advice here, listen.
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Old May 27, 2019 | 02:10 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
if you want a complete shopping list...just talk to @PBA and order a rebuild kit for him. It will have a custom tailored parts list and good instructions for building.
Otherwise...learn to read greek and go through those threads and gather the info you need. Nobody else here should be expected to comb through those threads and spoon feed you a list because you're not willing to do the legwork.

Haha ye, reading up as much as I can =) Big thanks everyone!
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Old May 29, 2019 | 06:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by vorteciroc
Do not buy any of the following:

-A74584C $67.50
5 Pinion Rear Planetary


-D74582B $164.66
5 Pinion Front Planetary


Keep the 4 pinion planets that you have.

-T54450A $9.30
Adjustable detent cable (TV cable) 700R4


This is only for units from 1982 to 1992 that were not electronic, you have an electronic unit and can not use this.

-14-2 $205.00
Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit gasket and seal kit, metal clad seals, ring kit, all Red Eagle Performance clutches, all high performance kolene steels, high performance 3-4 Red Eagle power pack.


Alto clutch plates and Kolene steels are a waste of money; and in the 3-4 clutch assembly, they are inferior. Obtain an OEM clutch set using Borg Warner High Energy 3-4 clutch frictions.

-45 $298.00
Extreme Duty Torque Drive Package hardened input shaft and new input drum, beast reaction shell.


Do not buy any kit produced by PATC... Sorry they are idiots. Do not buy the input shafts that they heat/ cryo. The beast reaction shell is okay... purchasing a new GM heat treated shell would be better or one from Sonnax (however this is an unnecessary expense in your case).
You can purchase an improved input shaft from several places (or Sonnax). However in your case not necessary.

I approve 100% of this post. Being I found out some of these things the hard way. I bought the patc input shaft. It lasted about 25 miles before it exploded/shattered/destroyed my trans. It’s GARBAGE. It’s weaker than a stock 100k mile shaft.

Read my build thread. There’s lots of good info. I probably should update it with exactly what I did. I’ve been dailying (if that’s even a word) since I built the trans. I’ve turned up the boost to 12psi. It does not slip and the 2-3 shift is very quick and firm. I have the 4l79 drum. Go ahead and spend the money on sonnax input and output shafts if you are going to turbo it. Some people will say you don’t need the rear shaft at 500 wheel but on 7psi (probably close to 500rwhp ) at the track on nitto drag radials, I broke the output. If you had a true 4l65 output shaft, they are a little stronger and you might get away with it for a while.
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Old May 30, 2019 | 11:47 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy
I approve 100% of this post. Being I found out some of these things the hard way. I bought the patc input shaft. It lasted about 25 miles before it exploded/shattered/destroyed my trans. It’s GARBAGE. It’s weaker than a stock 100k mile shaft.
Damn! That is a nasty failure to experience!
I'm glad to hear nobody was injured... It does happen!

Most people have absolutely no idea how easily heat treatments/ metal hardening processes can be ruined and create a terribly vulnerable and brittle metal compound.

The people over at PATC have no business "experimenting" with any form of heat treating; whether it be Carburizing, Nitriding, Tempering, Annealing, or Cryogenic treatment.

DO NOT PURCHASE ANY HEAT TREATED PARTS FROM PATC.

They have been selling parts that they have altered and thus made inferior and more dangerous to use.
Should someone wish to save some money by shopping at PATC... Invest that saved money in SFI Ballistics safety equipment to protect yourself from the Transmission.
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