4L80E....cooler ports in the case....threads just crumbled and fell out...NO THREADS.
06-20-2019, 08:35 PM
#1
4L80E....cooler ports in the case....threads just crumbled and fell out...NO THREADS. As my installer unscrewed the temporary plugs out of each cooler port to install my banjo valves....the threads fell apart into dust.......
Both ports are basically smooth bores now.......
How can this be fixed.....?
I have great luck.......LOL
Both ports are basically smooth bores now.......
How can this be fixed.....?
I have great luck.......LOL
06-20-2019, 10:23 PM
#3
Well, my tranny guy just texted me and said that he did screw the banjos in and they feel tight.....but he’s just not comfortable because of how much of the threads crumbled out.
may be a crazy idea.....but at this point I’m getting frustrated with little things that keep happening.
since they are screwed in......what if I had a welder run a bead around them both and sealed them in permanently .....
may be a crazy idea.....but at this point I’m getting frustrated with little things that keep happening.
since they are screwed in......what if I had a welder run a bead around them both and sealed them in permanently .....
06-21-2019, 07:21 AM
#5
TECH Junkie
Yes you could just weld aluminum AN fittings to the case. I would thread them in first then weld them on.
06-25-2019, 07:50 PM
#6
06-25-2019, 08:46 PM
#7
So my tranny guy installed it....but the front cooler port is leaking a constant drip....so is the rear but very slow drip. He's afraid to tighten them any more. Tomorrow he's gonna take them out and put in 1/16" thick nylon washers. If that doesn't work then we'll take out the banjos and weld in some AN fittings. There's a lot of room in the tunnel for straight ANs out of the case with 45* AN fittings for the cooler lines.
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06-25-2019, 10:19 PM
#9
Maybe this will be better. The O-ring might seal better than a nylon washer.
and if they don’t seal....they’re aluminum and can easily be welded after screwed in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...124/?rrec=true
and if they don’t seal....they’re aluminum and can easily be welded after screwed in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...124/?rrec=true
06-26-2019, 05:37 AM
#10
Maybe this will be better. The O-ring might seal better than a nylon washer.
and if they don’t seal....they’re aluminum and can easily be welded after screwed in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...124/?rrec=true
and if they don’t seal....they’re aluminum and can easily be welded after screwed in.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/i...124/?rrec=true
I thought the problem was no threads to screw into.
06-26-2019, 10:25 AM
#11
Yes, at first a bunch of threads came falling out.....but he then looked inside and saw threads that did remain so he tried to screw them in. So about half of the threads fell out....deeper inside they were still there. He was actually able to torque them down to 26 ft. lbs. They are still leaking.
I just ordered the ICC Billet straight -6AN fittings. They get here tomorrow. The O-ring they come with should do the trick. if not....we will simply weld them in place.
I just ordered the ICC Billet straight -6AN fittings. They get here tomorrow. The O-ring they come with should do the trick. if not....we will simply weld them in place.
07-01-2019, 10:03 PM
#12
Anyone looking for an easy fix to cooler fittings that will not seal....get some $14.95 ICT billeet aluminum fittings and take 30 seconds to seal them with this....they will never leak and you can also reverse it just as fast later on to take the fittings out.
Its not welding......you just need a regular hand torch.
Its not welding......you just need a regular hand torch.
07-02-2019, 10:57 AM
#13
That durafix stuff is **** unless you need to weld a soda can. Notice how he never demonstrates welding the thick stuff? It's all about the soda can. They used to sell this at flea markets. I've used it, you can weld/braze the side of a soda can too.
I tried it with a 6 inch piece of 3 inch wide 1/2" plate. It needs a ton of heat and by the time you get enough heat to it the surface is oxidized enough that it doesn't bond. Thats why the demonstrations are all of thin material.
And it's more of a brazing material, it doesn't mix with the base metal.
If you think I'm wrong then go waste your time with this garbage and not arguing with me about it, go try it.
I tried it with a 6 inch piece of 3 inch wide 1/2" plate. It needs a ton of heat and by the time you get enough heat to it the surface is oxidized enough that it doesn't bond. Thats why the demonstrations are all of thin material.
And it's more of a brazing material, it doesn't mix with the base metal.
If you think I'm wrong then go waste your time with this garbage and not arguing with me about it, go try it.
07-02-2019, 11:53 AM
#14
That durafix stuff is **** unless you need to weld a soda can. Notice how he never demonstrates welding the thick stuff? It's all about the soda can. They used to sell this at flea markets. I've used it, you can weld/braze the side of a soda can too.
I tried it with a 6 inch piece of 3 inch wide 1/2" plate. It needs a ton of heat and by the time you get enough heat to it the surface is oxidized enough that it doesn't bond. Thats why the demonstrations are all of thin material.
And it's more of a brazing material, it doesn't mix with the base metal.
If you think I'm wrong then go waste your time with this garbage and not arguing with me about it, go try it.
I tried it with a 6 inch piece of 3 inch wide 1/2" plate. It needs a ton of heat and by the time you get enough heat to it the surface is oxidized enough that it doesn't bond. Thats why the demonstrations are all of thin material.
And it's more of a brazing material, it doesn't mix with the base metal.
If you think I'm wrong then go waste your time with this garbage and not arguing with me about it, go try it.
This stuff will 100% seal around any aluminum fitting as a back up to possible leaking threads or whatever is causing the leak.
And whos arguing....LOL.....go watch the videos on youtube, maybe you'll learn why you can't make it work. Because a bunch of people are using it hold things together with a LOT of strength. Surely it can stop fluid from dripping......LOL
07-02-2019, 03:44 PM
#15
There's a bunch of videos of people "bonding" all kinds of stuff.......its not just to seal a hole in a soda can.......which seems ridiculous to do, just throw the can away....LOL
This stuff will 100% seal around any aluminum fitting as a back up to possible leaking threads or whatever is causing the leak.
And whos arguing....LOL.....go watch the videos on youtube, maybe you'll learn why you can't make it work. Because a bunch of people are using it hold things together with a LOT of strength. Surely it can stop fluid from dripping......LOL
This stuff will 100% seal around any aluminum fitting as a back up to possible leaking threads or whatever is causing the leak.
And whos arguing....LOL.....go watch the videos on youtube, maybe you'll learn why you can't make it work. Because a bunch of people are using it hold things together with a LOT of strength. Surely it can stop fluid from dripping......LOL
Thats all that **** is good for is brazing soda cans.
Go ahead, YOU get yourself some of this **** and PLEASE make a video of you "welding" the fittings in your transmission. Talk about LOL.
07-02-2019, 07:47 PM
#18
TECH Junkie
Seriously... We do this repair in my shop all the time.
You will need to go to an aluminum welding shop.
Look for an autobody or transmission shop that offers aluminum repair as it will be cheaper than a metal fabrication shop.
As a last resort, go to a metal fab shop.
Purchase two aluminum AN fittings in any anodized color.
Purchase a shallow plastic tray, Ideally you want a polyethylene based plastic tray. (you can keep this type of plastic for use with acids and/ or electroplating).
(polyethylene-terephthalate based plastics have a logo on the product under the "3-arrow" recycling logo and states: "PETE").
Purchase a LARGE can of spray-on oven cleaner.
Purchase a bottle of isopropyl alcohol between 70 and 90 percent.
Place the aluminum fittings in a shallow plastic container.
Spray the oven cleaner on to the fittings until they are fully submerged in the solution.
Wait 20 to 30 minutes for the anodizing to leave the fittings.
Rinse the fittings in water.
Bathe the fittings on isopropyl alcohol.
Let the fittings completely dry.
Clean the empty transmission case completely with brake-parts cleaner. Especially the area near the cooler ports.
Bring empty transmission case and fittings to shop for aluminum repair.
The process does not take long.
However the transmission case will have to be pre-heated on a large hot plate or in a large oven prior to welding.
I usually charge $20 for this if the customer did all the prep-work that I outlined for you correctly.
***Do not let someone try to do this for you by pre-heating with an acetylene or an oxy-acetylene torch, as this will warp the transmission case!***
You will need to go to an aluminum welding shop.
Look for an autobody or transmission shop that offers aluminum repair as it will be cheaper than a metal fabrication shop.
As a last resort, go to a metal fab shop.
Purchase two aluminum AN fittings in any anodized color.
Purchase a shallow plastic tray, Ideally you want a polyethylene based plastic tray. (you can keep this type of plastic for use with acids and/ or electroplating).
(polyethylene-terephthalate based plastics have a logo on the product under the "3-arrow" recycling logo and states: "PETE").
Purchase a LARGE can of spray-on oven cleaner.
Purchase a bottle of isopropyl alcohol between 70 and 90 percent.
Place the aluminum fittings in a shallow plastic container.
Spray the oven cleaner on to the fittings until they are fully submerged in the solution.
Wait 20 to 30 minutes for the anodizing to leave the fittings.
Rinse the fittings in water.
Bathe the fittings on isopropyl alcohol.
Let the fittings completely dry.
Clean the empty transmission case completely with brake-parts cleaner. Especially the area near the cooler ports.
Bring empty transmission case and fittings to shop for aluminum repair.
The process does not take long.
However the transmission case will have to be pre-heated on a large hot plate or in a large oven prior to welding.
I usually charge $20 for this if the customer did all the prep-work that I outlined for you correctly.
***Do not let someone try to do this for you by pre-heating with an acetylene or an oxy-acetylene torch, as this will warp the transmission case!***
07-02-2019, 09:59 PM
#19
Thats what the soda can brazing rods require...a ton of heat in one area. It'll ruin the case. And if you want to heat it up evenly you might as well do it right as described above.
But I would still love to see a video of someone trying to braze fittings into the case with those cheap rods. "It's easy and quick" LMAO. Ok then lets see you prove me wrong.
But I would still love to see a video of someone trying to braze fittings into the case with those cheap rods. "It's easy and quick" LMAO. Ok then lets see you prove me wrong.
07-02-2019, 10:12 PM
#20
Seriously... We do this repair in my shop all the time.
You will need to go to an aluminum welding shop.
Look for an autobody or transmission shop that offers aluminum repair as it will be cheaper than a metal fabrication shop.
As a last resort, go to a metal fab shop.
Purchase two aluminum AN fittings in any anodized color.
Purchase a shallow plastic tray, Ideally you want a polyethylene based plastic tray. (you can keep this type of plastic for use with acids and/ or electroplating).
(polyethylene-terephthalate based plastics have a logo on the product under the "3-arrow" recycling logo and states: "PETE").
Purchase a LARGE can of spray-on oven cleaner.
Purchase a bottle of isopropyl alcohol between 70 and 90 percent.
Place the aluminum fittings in a shallow plastic container.
Spray the oven cleaner on to the fittings until they are fully submerged in the solution.
Wait 20 to 30 minutes for the anodizing to leave the fittings.
Rinse the fittings in water.
Bathe the fittings on isopropyl alcohol.
Let the fittings completely dry.
Clean the empty transmission case completely with brake-parts cleaner. Especially the area near the cooler ports.
Bring empty transmission case and fittings to shop for aluminum repair.
The process does not take long.
However the transmission case will have to be pre-heated on a large hot plate or in a large oven prior to welding.
I usually charge $20 for this if the customer did all the prep-work that I outlined for you correctly.
***Do not let someone try to do this for you by pre-heating with an acetylene or an oxy-acetylene torch, as this will warp the transmission case!***
You will need to go to an aluminum welding shop.
Look for an autobody or transmission shop that offers aluminum repair as it will be cheaper than a metal fabrication shop.
As a last resort, go to a metal fab shop.
Purchase two aluminum AN fittings in any anodized color.
Purchase a shallow plastic tray, Ideally you want a polyethylene based plastic tray. (you can keep this type of plastic for use with acids and/ or electroplating).
(polyethylene-terephthalate based plastics have a logo on the product under the "3-arrow" recycling logo and states: "PETE").
Purchase a LARGE can of spray-on oven cleaner.
Purchase a bottle of isopropyl alcohol between 70 and 90 percent.
Place the aluminum fittings in a shallow plastic container.
Spray the oven cleaner on to the fittings until they are fully submerged in the solution.
Wait 20 to 30 minutes for the anodizing to leave the fittings.
Rinse the fittings in water.
Bathe the fittings on isopropyl alcohol.
Let the fittings completely dry.
Clean the empty transmission case completely with brake-parts cleaner. Especially the area near the cooler ports.
Bring empty transmission case and fittings to shop for aluminum repair.
The process does not take long.
However the transmission case will have to be pre-heated on a large hot plate or in a large oven prior to welding.
I usually charge $20 for this if the customer did all the prep-work that I outlined for you correctly.
***Do not let someone try to do this for you by pre-heating with an acetylene or an oxy-acetylene torch, as this will warp the transmission case!***
Curious:
To have it welded properly....how hot does the empty case need to be preheated to when the fittings get welded into place?
And 750*F will warp the case if heated with a torch....? Wow...I never would have thought it would warp at that temp.