I got a circle D. Awesome converter

 

Before you contact Yank, I would try first talking to FTI Performance for a torque converter.
I highly recommend their products and service.

My contract/ agreement with PTC is up; I also dropped ATI... I am keeping Neal Chance, however I may pick up FTI...
Should we be able to make an agreement. If not I am going to try Ultimate Converter Concepts.

FTI Performance torque converters are active and supportive on our message board.
If they do not jump-in and say hello, give them a try.

FTI Performance: 866-726-8358 or FTIPERFORMANCE.com

 

Ask for Dalton or shoot me a PM. I'm here to help.

 

Ok maybe ill check them out because yank doesn’t really have a page I can find

that circle D does look mean how’s it treating you

ok Dalton ill give you call tomorrow so you can see what is best for me

 

You are in good hands!

 

So I’m back guys I put the trans in new torque converter
I’m still getting shaking and car wont accelerate

 

Driveshaft length is right?? Trans mount okay? U joints?? Is the harness put in the right way??

 

So same drive shaft same length as 700r4
trans mount use same one but welded no tab to fit and got the angles off tremec app
yes wiring is right everything I got was labeled
so I smashed gas well holding break and they wont spin

 

Fluid level okay??

 

Transmission was drop pan and I put about 6 quarts should I put more hard to read level with Lokar dip stick says full when engine is hot

 

The dip-stick "Full Level" is often unreliable...

The only way to know for sure is to remove the oil-pan, look up into the transmission at the dip-stick and compare the "Full Mark" to the flange for the oil-pan.

The "Full Mark" should be at least level with the oil-pan flange or higher; up to an 1/8" higher.

Take a bright colored paint-marker and mark the dip-stick at the actual "Full Level" if not coinciding with the production mark.

 

I can try that tomorrow if I remember I felt like is went down past the flange I wish I would of marked it
if low would that cause my issues
I felt like I was getting lil more response in reverse drive just has no power

 

If you are referring to this:

Than NO; slightly low ATF level should not cause shaking...
Installing the torque-converter dry/ empty of ATF can cause some real damage and cause shaking.
Did you poor ATF directly into the torque-converter before installing it onto the transmission stator-support tube and turbine-shaft?

Shaking could be from rear wheels/tires. rear suspension/ incorrect geometry of rear control arms, incorrect drive-shaft angles/ Universal-joint issues, rear spring/ shock issues, body/ frame issues or power-train mount issues... ETC.

If there is no shaking; however there is lack of power... then we need more information.

When the vehicle does not accelerate, does the engine rev-up or does the engine lag with the rest of the power-train?

 

So I poured whole quote of atf inside converter think I’m good there

there’s slight shaking when I hit gas
I’m getting no power to rear wheels car wont go past 5 to 10 mph when I rev engine feel like it hangs


I haven’t messed with any of suspension or wheels car rolled fine before 2 years ago
possible driveshaft angle I got to 1.8 angle

 

 

I feel like it my rear end is not responding to the rpm vwerrry sluggish

 

Is your parking brake on?? How about the master cylinder, is it still good?? If your MC is shot your brakes could be locking up

 

Parking break is released
not really sure about the break system its all Stock
i do have one of the biggest air ports off my intake going to the break booster

 

wheels spin freely when I have up in air

 

Can you log what the vehicle is doing when it is shaking and limiting speed? I'm sure someone much more well versed in LS tuning than myself will see something that could lead to a fix.