One of the more common mistakes that I find DIY builders making...

Is purchasing a new torque-converter after the transmission is fully built/ assembled.
This is a major mistake!

Just as you are confirming the fitment of various parts to the torque-converter... I find many DIY builders never take these steps.
All mating components of the transmission need to be inspected for proper clearance and fitment.

The turbine-shaft, the stator-support, the oil-pump gears, and the corresponding seals all need to be test fitted with the torque-converter.
On the 4L60E transmissions; the assembled pump should be placed in the torque converter...
Along with the reverse-imput drum, and the input drum/ turbine-shaft.
Rotate the parts for proper operation and wet air-check the corresponding clutch packs.

Purchase the torque-converter at the same time as new transmissions parts...
So that all components can be inspected and fitted properly.

 

Also there have been, and most likely will continue to be a debate on which pump rotor style is best and for what reason.

Builders all have different opinions of which pump rotor type is the best... 7-vane, 10-vane, or 13-vane.
There are pros and cons to all three of them.

I personally prefer the middle of the road... and mostly build with the 10 vane type.
The difference in the operation, overall is not much different between the 3 types.
Volume vs pulse frequency make for the bulk of the debates.

However when it comes down to measuring, machining, and blue-printing the pump assembly...
The rotor clearances are more important than vane count.
I prefer to use GM parts here, and will use what ever type is available in the thickness I desire.

 

Yea I agree with you, the converter buy was just suppose to be a upgrade to my stock/refurbished trans at the time I went from a ls1 to the 5.3. Figured it being listed for a 4l60e as one of their off the shelf products it would be a direct replacement as how it was for a 3200 stall I bought from them before. But your right i didnt check the pump to converter fitment right off the back which would have gave me a heads up. I was under that same impression if it's off the shelf it's probably gonna fit with stock oe specs. WRONG. Lesson learned there. But then again it could be a manufacture error at FTI seeing everything else went smooth and just their hub wouldn't fit, not to bash them or anything they have my business. I've had other converters from them that worked perfectly fine and kicked *** compared to other brands from friends cars. Just my luck at the time lol