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4l60e
tci 13vane billet pump(was suppose to be a 10vane btw but I'm just gonna run with it)
plan on spinning up to 7krpms or so
I have tci's boost valve(their tech couldnt verify size but said line pressure should see 220+, sonnax oring boost valve(ripped), transgo hd2 boost valve.
Hey guys I'm in the process of rebuilding my 4l60e currently, i bought a tci billet pump and they couldnt verify what boost valve they had in it so I went ahead and tried to install a sonnax .500 boost valve with the 2 orings, long story short I thought I hit the sharp edges enough with a scotch bright pad but ended up ripping the orings. Is there any way I can get replacement orings. The valve kit itself is like $23 and I can order a new one but risk tearing orings again or I was hoping I can get a pack of orings in case I have a reoccurring issue. I already tried the parts store 🤦♂️ bought a metric and standard oring set at 27$ a pop each and ended up being close but dont feel comfortable with it sealing. I pressure checked one hole with air already and it seems not to leak but my compressor will only reach 100psi and this things suppose to see 200-230psi iirc. Anyone have this issue and find a solution?
The boost valve lands will only ever see about 95 psi max
The boost valve runs off of AFL pressure, not direct line
Just call sonnax, they will help you out.
Oh okay got it, gave them a call but was on hold for a while and couldnt wait any longer (kids got home school) and so I sent an email for their parts tech support waiting for a response, I'll give them a go again tomorrow morning. Thanks for the info brotha
I would use the TransGo HD2 valve, since you have it. The Sonnax is a .490" boost valve. The o-ring idea will air check better, however you are using oil here. No comparison. If the o-rings you picked up work fine, then use them. You really want 235 - 240 psi. at WOT when hot, in manual 1 or 2 at 3,000 rpm and higher. Your choice here.
Got it, is there only one hole to pressurize on the housing to check for leaks on both the orings, well besides the other end you cover with your finger, sorry for the newb question I've only looked at it a handful of times.
So got ahold of sonnax today. They do sell replacement orings but you have to go through one of their dealers. I just bought another valve off of summit because they only take 2days to get to me. Here's the email from Sonnax about the part number and info on replacement orings.
Some times when I disassemble a stock valve-body...
The original spring for that valve (3-2 downshift) or the valve behind the solenoid next to it (3-2 Control) is broken.
Blocking the 3-2 downshift valve inward is a common change to this valve-body; as your instructions show.
When I make my in-house "Shift-Kits" for this transmission; I machine a solid piece of round-stock aluminum to block the valve inward.
The purple "solid stacked coil spring" essentially accomplishes the same function.
Other "shift-kits" (including my own) often also block the 3-2 Control valve in place as well.
Follow the instructions and have fun!
Last edited by vorteciroc; Apr 16, 2020 at 10:31 PM.
Thank you vortec for the info! One last question and I think I'm all done with this trans. Is grinding the part for grinding the manual valve for faster reverse release a nessecity? What's it do?
Thank you vortec for the info! One last question and I think I'm all done with this trans. Is grinding the part for grinding the manual valve for faster reverse release a nessecity? What's it do?
The modification that you speak of; is usually only needed to be performed on very early model 4L60E transmissions (Pre 1996)
The intention of this modification to the manual valve; is to help speed-up the release of Reverse (specifically, Low-Reverse clutch apply oil) when shifting out of the Reverse range to another gear range.
GM tried a few variations of modifications over the years to help speed-up the release of Reverse when shifting out of the Reverse range to another gear range.
GM made changes to the manual valve and/ or valve-body bore for the manual valve in the later production years.
Something that I find funny; is the image of the manual valve in the Trans-Go instructions...
Is the newer manual valve design that does not require this modification.
Your Trans-Go instructions should show this:
The old (Pre 1996) components look like this:
The newer components look like this:
The Trans-Go instructions used to state that only Pre 1996 units require this modification of the manual valve.
Kudos to vorteciroc for his fast and excellent posts with great pictures and explanations. We should all be thankful, give you a toast, a virtual handshake, and send you a beer and some spare parts.
Where were you all these years since 2008? Probably super busy providing exceptional customer service.
Kudos to vorteciroc for his fast and excellent posts with great pictures and explanations. We should all be thankful, give you a toast, a virtual handshake, and send you a beer and some spare parts.
Where were you all these years since 2008? Probably super busy providing exceptional customer service.
LMAO! Thanks
I actually find all the regular guys here to be very helpful. PBA, MaroonMonsterLS1, Bbond105, Kfxguy, 98Cayennet/a, just to name a few.
When I joined here in 2008; I was still at GM running around like a chicken without a head.
I am very lucky that I really did not have to interact with any customers/ GM vehicle owners during my time at GM.
I went solo in 2012 and am still enjoying it... and I do enough customer service now to make up for it LOL!
I became very active here when I started having insomnia... and enjoy spending some time here.
Last edited by vorteciroc; Apr 17, 2020 at 01:59 PM.
Yea I cant thank you guys enough, I've actually followed through most of everyone listed threads so I can tackle this thing for the last couple months. I have it almost finished BUT where the heck does this bracket go
Yea I cant thank you guys enough, I've actually followed through most of everyone listed threads so I can tackle this thing for the last couple months. I have it almost finished BUT where the heck does this bracket go
Thank you!
The guys here that help out on the forum; give their help during spare time and for free...
So "Thank you"s are very much appreciated! Thank you again.
Oh yea if I can follow up on an unanswered question I'll do it. I hate reading through threads and never get to see the solution lol with that said I ran into a new issue and I think I came to figure out why I'm rebuilding my trans in the first place because my front pump rotor shattered. Stock converter Stock converter FTI CONVERTER FTI CONVERTER
got trans all buttoned up, when to slip on tq converter and it wouldn't seat 100%, tried a stock TC I had laying around and it slipped on like butter. Converter is a FTI 9.5" Billet 3800 triple disk hard hit stall (my fingers cross everytime I think about it that I dont break anything lmao) Part # SRLS7082-3. I thought I was loosing my mind why it wasnt seating got into contact with FTI trying to iron out what it could be but we still couldnt figure it out. All the splines counted matched up and sizes of shafts, so I pulled the front pump back out (TCI Billet rotor 10 vane 4l60e pump, Part # 373305, side note this pump turned out to be a 13 vane billet rotor even tho it lists and shows it as a 10vane.) Slide converter onto input shaft, went in like butter, next's tried it on the pump, looked to sit a little high still. Pulled pump apart and tried the housing input shaft, slid on like butter. Confused, sat there for 10min staring at it then tried again this time put a little assembly lube on the notched part of the converter hub, tried it, never made contact with rotor and seated fully. Pulled pump apart again, went to slide rotor onto converter hub, wouldn't slide on, tried the stock converter, dropped right into place. Studied it for a bit and found the if the rotor will work with the stock converter it was the converter hub being too large of a diameter. Got into contact with fti they said send it in and they'll fix it no problem. Not sure if itll be at my expense or not we'll see how that goes seeing it's still under warranty. Also I'm thinking when I originally got the converter I wonder if I shattered the stock powdered rotor trying to install it because it was fighting me getting it on and then it just started going on easily.
Tore boost valve seal 
