ok here is the problem. i have a 97 gmc sierra i bought with intentions of just making it a work truck that will be hauling a trailer with 3-4 ton loads at maximum.

the motor runs great, its a 305 fuel injected and cranks up without any problems and the oil looks great.

the problem i am having is that the transmission does not have a 2nd or 4th gear (and from what ive read this is most likley because of the 2-4 band. the other problem is that i have to shift it down to 1st manually to get the transmission into 1st. when i first bought the truck it wasnt like this. i could put it in drive and go, but now i am having to put it down in 1st manually to engage the transmission.

i have never worked on a transmission but i am very sure i should have no problems working on it. ive fixed my own and my family and friends cars all my life. the main thing i am trying to do is get feedback for what to look for and what could be wrong with the transmission. i realize this is not a corvette or camaro but yall seem to really know your stuff here. so if you can, please please help me figure it out. the transmission is still in the truck. is there anything i need to do before tearing it out?

p.s. thanks again for any information

edit: just to clarify the truck was missing 2-4 when i bought it. i planned on fixing it and using the truck. i was driving it and stopped at a red light and went to take off and heard something bang or snap or knock and after that it requires me to manually shift 1 and 3rd gears. any help would be appreciated

 

It seems pretty clear that your 23 year old trans needs a complete rebuild. We have helped lots of people with their first rebuild, but let me say that even if you can rebuild an engine with your eyes closed, member feedback tells me there is still only a 50/50 chance that your first rebuild is going to be successful and drive-able. Some special tools are essential. Here is a thread for first-time rebuilding:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...questions.html

 

ok. i do not know hardly anything other than torque converter and the pump. everything else is a mystery to me. i dont have the cash to pay someone to rebuild it for me and with some of the stories ive heard locally, even from my own father, i dont think letting a shop in my area do it for me would be the right choice anyway.

i will take pictures of every piece i take out and lay everything in order as i take it out and try to document as much as i can. the truck drives fine though. just now, i have to manually put it in 1st or third to get it to move. hell i owuld have drove it another 100,000 miles if it would have let me, but when i heard the clank or bang/knock and had top start shifting gears manually, i knew it was time to do something.

from what i can gather, the forward sprag is what i should be looking for? also the 2-4 bands right? i will take some time this evening and go over the link you gave me. i also need to find an exploded view of the transmission, or a good guide with photos on how to put it back together, that way i can cross reference my own documentation while i put it back together.

also, is there anything i should do while the tranny is still in the truck? or can i go ahead and remove it? shouldnt take an hour or so i wouldnt think. i have air tools and jacks. i do not have any specialty transmission tools though. any extra info on what i may need would be helpful, or is all of it in the link you sent me? is there a list of tools i will need i can reference? thanks for any help

edit: also, just to be clear, the valve body will need to be removed and all seals changed etc if i do a complete rebuild? once i get the transmission out and start disassembling it, i think i will learn alot about it (hopefully). i pick stuff up pretty quick and am the kind of person who double and triple checks everything. but anyway, any extra info is very much appreciated!

edit @: also, is there a heavy duty rebuild kit? or like the post in the link you posetd said a 4L65E rebuild kit would work?

i wish i could just easily drop a manual tranny in it and have a custom driveshaft made, but it seems that route would end up costing me 2-3 thousand bucks possible and would have to get another ecu or computer that was originally for a 97 sierra manual transmission. anyway thanks!

 

It sounds as if your low roller clutch has broken that is why you only have movement in D1. As for 2nd and 4th gears most likely the band has worn to where there is too much servo travel for the band to hold the drum. As mrvedit said it is time for a rebuild. There is nothing you can do to repair your problem without disassembling the transmission.

 

I used the Transmission Bench series on youtube to rebuild my 4l60E; Jimmy's snap rings come off and go on a little easier than mine though . I was one of the 50% that didn't get it to work the first time. I took it back out (would not have had to once I found out what the problem was) and fixed it which you can find a record of in this forum. Since then, I have rebuilt 4 others with no issues. Between the videos, build threads, and good advice here it's doable for someone who is committed to doing it.

 

I was typing my reply when you posted again. In your first post you stated that you had to be in D1 to get it to move and then in your 2nd post you said D1 or D3. If D1 or D3 then yes most likely its the forward sprag. As for tools you would need, a few snap ring pliers and a spring compressor.

 

You are already getting good advice. As I promised.
Yes, the link in post #2 is to a detailed post with many links and lists of tools.
As Mr Bond wrote, the most essential tools are some snap ring pliers and a spring compressor.
If your trans was a 2002+ I would not hesitate in recommending a 4L65E rebuilt kit to get the 7-friction 3/4 clutch, but I don't know if that will work correctly with a '97 trans. The separator plate gaskets might be different ??
Perhaps MaroonMonster or one of the other experts can recommend that or a different kit.

 

A 1997 unit may use separator plates from production model year through 2006.

 

i will have to verify if i can use d3 AND d1. iirc i used the shifter to switch from d1 to d3. i cannot remember if i could put it in d3 and leave it and let it switch between 1st and 3rd automatically or if i had to manually switch. it will be a couple of days before i can get around to it, i have clients coming back into the area and am very busy for the next few days.

and i need to make sure i have all the tools needed before i start. will that spring compressor and snap ring pliers be all that i need? i have a lot of other tools (sockets/ratchets/wrenches etc.

also thanks for all the comments/advicve! yall guys/gals are awesome!

 

There are many other tools which would make the job easier, but we are trying to keep the cost down.
Technically its not a snap ring plier you need but a "lock ring plier" such as this excellent one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...rch_asin_title

Here is the spring compressor for the Low/Reverse clutch: https://www.amazon.com/Streetside-To.../dp/B011SBH8TU

The even more critical input drum spring compressor is currently unavailable on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Streetside-To.../dp/B011SBH8TU
Perhaps Mr Bond has a link to a suitable one. I think the tool he showed in post #6 is a "universal" spring compressor that you use in a big drill press.

There are very expensive tools for resizing the teflon rings, but the plastic from a 2L pop bottle and some hose clamps works just fine. Only snug the hose clamps, don't overly tighten them. Even if you overtighten them a bit, they tend to expand back in 24 hours or so; some newbie builders noticed they didn't have reverse at first, but it came back after a day or so.

There are also very expensive tools for protecting various seals during assembly; but many rebuild kits come with a round plastic seal installer. (Transtar "Seal Buddy" ??) You might consider buying a rebuild kit from a local trans shop and I'm sure they will give you the seal installer if needed as they throw extras away by the dozen.

Finally you need two 12" long hose clamp, combined into one, to make the pump halves "alignment tool". If/when you get that far, it would be a good idea to either show us pictures of the inside of the pump or take it to your local independent trans shop for an opinion. The pump should be replaced if severely worn; reasonably good one are $75 on ebay.

 

Here is a diagram of all the parts:
http://www.tehpear.com/pictures/othe...28large%29.jpg

 

thanks for the great comment. i will most def be using a brand new pump, most likely will be reusing the same torque converter if that is ok? i will see if the local tranny shops can offer any tools or anything as well that i may be able to rent. i hope it doesnt take but 3-4 hours to actually rebuild the tranny. i did find some good deals on some used ones within 120 miles of my vicinity, but there is no telling on how many miles or if they are even good working transmissions.

i just want to be sure to get the right heavy duty kit that has the bands that wont wear out within a month because i will be using this as a work truck and hauling around a trailer with various amounts of weight, though never above three ton. sometimes i drive 100+ miles one way pulling stuff and i need to make sure the tranny lasts so after i rebuild it and if successful, i will want to add some kind of aftermarket tranny cooler to help reduce heat because that is what ultimately kills these things aint it?

 

holy zombie jesus

 

Yeah, there are a lot of different parts! Not to scare you, but if you nick one of the soft seals during assembly deep insider the input housing, e.g. #332/333 or #340/341 can you guess what the result is?
Why not tell us what city you live in and perhaps a nearby member will help you out.
While I'm certainly not a pro, I've had people drive to my house from a few hundred miles away and successfully rebuild a trans under my "supervision". Maybe any experienced member will offer that too and even supply the tools.

 

Torque-converters should definitely not be reused unless cut-open and cleaned.

Once all the parts are cleaned and new bushings and seals are all installed...
All the clearances are measured and correctly established...
The assembly process does not take very long.

It is the smaller tedious stuff that takes a long time; like cleaning, measuring ETC...
If rebuild properly; a first time will probably take to 6 to 10 hours with all the stuff i mentioned.

A additional transmission cooler is most always a good investment... a temp gauge should go along with it.
160 -180 degree temps are ideal.

 

I use the spring compressor shown in post #6 and it works very good for all sections of transmission

 

The spring compressor in post # 6 is a very good universal compressor. I have used the one I have for over 30 years on many different models, GM, Ford, Chrysler even a Nissan. This tool will work on all of the clutch packs in the 4L60E. The spring compressors mrvedit referenced will make the job easer but you will need a different one for each clutch pack.
If OP can build one of these in 8 hours correctly I would be impressed. From start to finish I don't think I can.

 

LOL!

...I meant after the disassembly, cleaning, bushing and seal changes... Just assembly and clearances = 8ish hours.

That is a very long time.

 

Sorry vorteciroc wasn't directed towards you. OP was thinking he could build his in 3 to 4 hours.

 

Clearly he expected only 3-4 hours before he saw the parts diagram.