Long story short this is a newer style trans and stock except a HD2 Trans go kit installed. I got a FTI triple disc billet converter stalling around 3600 or 3800 (dont know cause trans have never felt correct yet). Its in a 95 S10 and a turbo LQ4 with Holley Tx maxx. Have never touched any trans tuning in the Holley. Running 2psi boost atm as its not tuned yet and still have other odds and ends to do.

I have not ran this more than 4 times around the block as Ive been finishing things up on it. Its never felt right from the get go and Im still trying to narrow it down as Im not a trans expert by any means. What it feels like is that the clutches are trying to engage when it shouldnt. As in when I come to a stop it will lunge the truck forward and stall it out. Same in reverse. Stalls waaay too high as well today for sme reason. Dont hear any weird noises. Converter is shimmed properly. Has a 6 bolt LQ4 flat flex plate. Pilot is in where it should be. Trans fluid is perfect and new. Running a Derale stacked plate cooler. Took off return line today and it had pressure into a bucket. Didnt leave it in there too long as I didnt want to drain it all out but it pumped maybe a qt in real fast as I overfilled it just for this reason. Made a test line to connect both pressure and return ports in trans to make sure there wasnt a restriction anywhere and its doing same thing. Its not leaking anywhere. Last night it was stalling real high and not moving much. As in couldnt even go anywhere. Sat for 15 mins and it returned function to make it a mile home. I also replaced the O Ring on the input shaft as well with a brand new one specifically for the trans....think p/n was 34380e or something. Called FTI and they dont think its the converter (which I pray it isnt) so Im trying to figure out what else I could test before I just have someone like Jakes or someone else rebuild it.

What else can I do to see if its actually the trans or if maybe if its a tcc solenoid or something else simple? Just seems weird how it shifts just fine (under hard throttle once and was perfect) but still has clutches trying to apply all the time. I can buy a trans psi gauge if need be and see what it is. What should it be? Bout to drop the pan here in a few minutes as well.

Im just praying this isnt effecting my brand new converter cause thats really gonna be a kick in the *****. When I changed o ring yesterday converter looked brand new from what I could see inside (which isnt much). Fluid was red as could be too. Thats why I havent been driving it except for when I thought I fixed something.

 

Just double checking...

Are you certain that the pump has not been modified?
The valves for the torque converter clutch are inside the pump...

It sounds as if the torque converter clutch is not fully releasing/ may be dragging.
I have see modifications to the pump cause what you are experiencing... but more commonly with a stock type TC-clutch.

 

Not unless its part of the trans go hd2 kit. I had my trans guy do that. Could he have messed something up maybe?

 

I have not seen those TransGo instructions in about 15 years...
I do not recall anything being done to any of the TCC valve-train inside of the pump, via TransGo instructions.

Things can always be messed up. LMAO!

Some of the torque-converter products/ companies include a different TCC valve-train spring along with the torque-converter...
I would check with FTI and find out if that is the case here... Then if so... Did the transmission builder install the spring???

Do you know which model FTI converter, you have?
Is it the: SRLS40086-3 (3,600 RPM stall-speed, 9.5" Triple-Disc Billet Lock Up Street Racer Torque Converter)???

 

Did you do the whole HD2 kit?
Or just the parts you can do by dropping the pan?

Arguably the most important (or at least 2nd most important right after the boost valve) of that kit is drilling the "line to lube" hole in the pump.
It's on one of the last pages of the instructions. It tells you to use a ridiculously small drill bit. Like .045 or something if memory serves (haven't seen the instructions in a minute)
Drill that line to lube .078 at least. Can go .093 if you do significant rpm

Drilling this hole will provide enough fluid to the RELEASE side of the TCC to keep the clutch off.
By default, the TCC wants to be engaged with the normal converter charge pressure of any operating condition. But there is oil on the release side that pushes the clutch OFF. If you don't have enough fluid to the release side, the TCC will drag.

 

The Sonnax line to lube valve can be installed without pulling the transmission, it cured my dragging tcc clutch. This can be used instead of drilling the pump in most cases.

https://www.sonnax.com/parts/1989-lu...egulator-valve

 

$$$$$$$$$

 

If it's boarderline, the sonnax valve can help. The feed hole is just so damn small.
But better than nothing.

I did the math for a guy a while back, probably have it written down somewhere, about how much he could take off one land of the PR valve in a mill to equal a .078 hole size. It would achieve the same thing, just at the sacrifice of some valve stability in the bore which could lead to premature wear thanks to side-loading the valve.

 

Got gauge installed on it today and I dont think its right....

At idle in park is 110psi or so. No change with raising rpms.

In 1st gear about 30psi

In reverse is hard since its stalls out right away but looks to fall below 60psi. I know thats bad but why I have no idea.

Dropped pan and looks like clutch material in it.

.No idea what the final HP will be in this but everything is built to support 1000+ which will be the goal some day after all the bugs are gone. Any recommendations on who builds these well? Ive seen Jakes but thats about as far as I got. Im in the central ohio area. I doubt I run much over 600hp for the next year or so. Only a weekend warm weather truck. Ive had many people tell me the 4l80 wont hold 1000hp and them others Ive seen do it so I have no clue. Really wanted to keep the OD and not go to th400 but may have too.

I have a new tcc solenoid here too if u think it will help but doubt it.

 

Definitely NOT good!

 

Yep Im saying its done at this point. So who builds good trans to hold 1000hp other than Jakes? Hughes any good on these? NTC seems out of business. If anyone knows of any builders around Ohio I can travel.

 

I would not purchase a unit from Hughes.

The closest business to you would be Performabuilt (about 4 hours east of Youngstown, OH; over in PA).
They specialize is the 4L60E family of transmissions more so than the 4L80E... But they can definitely build you a 4L80E.

Honestly, Jake's Performance is one of a few businesses in the country that does the 4L80E better than most anyone else.
I would highly consider going with Jake's Performance.

 

We do not.

 

Circle D used to include a STIFF red spring with their converters.
If you look at the circuitry and then monitor charge pressure, you'll see the "converter limit valve" already has pretty limited function.
That spring was unnecessary in my opinion.

If you go with a non-lockup unit, you can use a checkball in the bore to block that valve entirely, and then the circuit will function more like a "normal" th400 circuit in terms of charge.