4l60e 4th gear WOT mods
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
4l60e 4th gear WOT mods I am kicking around the idea of swapping to 4.56 gears in which case I would need/want to be able to go into 4th wot which leads me to my question....
What are some absolutley necessary mods needed to go wot into 4th or is it just a poor idea all around?
I would guess I make around 525 hp at the crank and spin it to 7100 and some change.
What hard parts is a wot 3-4 shift hard on?
As many of you know I build my own thanks to you guys so I can answer any current modification questions needed.
As always, thanks much.
What are some absolutley necessary mods needed to go wot into 4th or is it just a poor idea all around?
I would guess I make around 525 hp at the crank and spin it to 7100 and some change.
What hard parts is a wot 3-4 shift hard on?
As many of you know I build my own thanks to you guys so I can answer any current modification questions needed.
As always, thanks much.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
The only change between 3rd gear and 4th gear is the over-drive piston moves the servo inward to reapply the 2-4 band.
You need a very healthy pump and very good line pressure... I like 250 PSI.
Ideally... an Alto Wide Carbonite band, pristine reverse-input drum, and the Sonnax Over-drive servo piston set.
Most builders will eliminate the 4th accumulator and increase 4th feed oil.
The tuning will be the last part of this.
You need a very healthy pump and very good line pressure... I like 250 PSI.
Ideally... an Alto Wide Carbonite band, pristine reverse-input drum, and the Sonnax Over-drive servo piston set.
Most builders will eliminate the 4th accumulator and increase 4th feed oil.
The tuning will be the last part of this.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
The only change between 3rd gear and 4th gear is the over-drive piston moves the servo inward to reapply the 2-4 band.
You need a very healthy pump and very good line pressure... I like 250 PSI.
Ideally... an Alto Wide Carbonite band, pristine reverse-input drum, and the Sonnax Over-drive servo piston set.
Most builders will eliminate the 4th accumulator and increase 4th feed oil.
The tuning will be the last part of this.
You need a very healthy pump and very good line pressure... I like 250 PSI.
Ideally... an Alto Wide Carbonite band, pristine reverse-input drum, and the Sonnax Over-drive servo piston set.
Most builders will eliminate the 4th accumulator and increase 4th feed oil.
The tuning will be the last part of this.
Stock 4th servo.
2,000 miles on a brand new reverse input drum and wide band.
I do not currently have the 4th accumulator blocked and if I recall right have not done anything with the 4th apply feed hole.
Open the 4th apply feed to around .125" ?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,620
Likes: 1,331
From: Iowa
Multi disc only applicable if you're trying to lock the converter at WOT.
Truth be told, if OP can get away with it rpm wise in the 1/4...I'd rather see him lock a triple disc before shifting to OD
But, if that's not an option, then go with what vortec said.
-block 4th accum (and throw out the piston and spring)
-open 4th feed to .110
-sonnax dual piston servo kit
-MAKE SURE the rear planet is healthy, and the reaction carrier shaft has good bushings. They will be seeing more load than normal.
Truth be told, if OP can get away with it rpm wise in the 1/4...I'd rather see him lock a triple disc before shifting to OD
But, if that's not an option, then go with what vortec said.
-block 4th accum (and throw out the piston and spring)
-open 4th feed to .110
-sonnax dual piston servo kit
-MAKE SURE the rear planet is healthy, and the reaction carrier shaft has good bushings. They will be seeing more load than normal.
Thread Starter
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,913
Likes: 366
From: White Bear, Mn
ya, I think so. I think my 3rd circuit is pretty solid.
On my few builds that I have done my 3-4's look really good and I **** pound my car and drive it on a road course.
I have 2,000 miles on a fresh build where I had a driveshaft failure going 140 mph and it broke...Tail shaft, cracked case, both sprag assemblies, reaction shaft.
Since I have been building my own I have yet to burn up a clutch pack, just breaking hard parts.
On my few builds that I have done my 3-4's look really good and I **** pound my car and drive it on a road course.
I have 2,000 miles on a fresh build where I had a driveshaft failure going 140 mph and it broke...Tail shaft, cracked case, both sprag assemblies, reaction shaft.
Since I have been building my own I have yet to burn up a clutch pack, just breaking hard parts.
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TECH Junkie
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,203
Likes: 1,391
From: Nitro Alley
I forgot to add...
You will want to replace the stock sun-gear shell if still using one! It will fail!
The newer GM hardened version is fine for two wheel drive units (not necessary, but fine is the Sonnax version).
Four wheel drive units should use the Sonnax Shell instead as it helps protect the rear planet encapsulated torrington bearing by changing the thrust path.
Two wheel drive units almost never have an issue with this torrington bearing.
I like to use the Sonnax part simply because of the drag/ friction reduction, via the included torrington bearing vs the plastic thrust washer.
You will want to replace the stock sun-gear shell if still using one! It will fail!
The newer GM hardened version is fine for two wheel drive units (not necessary, but fine is the Sonnax version).
Four wheel drive units should use the Sonnax Shell instead as it helps protect the rear planet encapsulated torrington bearing by changing the thrust path.
Two wheel drive units almost never have an issue with this torrington bearing.
I like to use the Sonnax part simply because of the drag/ friction reduction, via the included torrington bearing vs the plastic thrust washer.
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