Hey gent's! How is everyone today?

I just pick up a 2002 cadalic ext - actually very clean for it's age.... It's got a few issues and I need some advice.....
I got this truck from a buddy who's ( son had rebuilt the transmission for the original owner ) after the son rebuilt the transmission - it lasted about a week until the transmission went nuclear again.... after this happened - My buddy ( father ) went out of his way and bought the truck from the original owner ( this way the son didn't have to worry about any backlash - lawsuit - warranty or such ).... I was in need of a vehicle and since I do R and R work anyway my buddy offered me the truck for next to nothing.... It's got the 6.0ho and tons of Bell's and whistles ( that are driving me bonkers ).......

Ok so here is the issue..... We got a completely different transmission ( core ) for the build this time ( thinking maybe something was wrong with the old one )....
Everything got freshened up and/or replaced with new parts.... Clutches - servo - planetary - solenoids and so on...... Everything is different.....
Still has the same issue.... ( Delayed shifting - soft or mushy shifting - if you drive easy it sift okish but if you try to drive at a decent pace it is mushy and delayed a lil.. This is how it acted after being rebuilt the first time... We only drove it maybe 5 miles today.

My buddy thought it might be the ( TPS ) but it looks like it's been changed..... He definitely thinks that it is pressure related ( the computer is not sending the command to up the pressure )..... I'm not convinced it's tps related.....

Related/unrelated problems......
Number (1) - The brake pedal is going to the floor board - ( My buddy claims this was not happening before ).... I do not see any leaks from lines or brake calipers..... If you jab the brake real fast the brakes start to grab ( then the pedal bleeds off and goes to the floor and finally brakes start to work ) (Master cylinder)?

2nd issue - Abs light is on ( whatever is causing the lazy brakes maybe triggering this) but I doubt it - usually ( wheel speed sensor related or some other sensor )light is on the moment vehicle starts.....

3rd issue.... Service stability system light is on ( from what iv read this can be caused by the abs light ) also I read it has something to do with the direction of the wheels vs steering wheel ( makes sense ) the steering wheel is off a decent amount.... Also has a low right front tire - guilty of driving it with a low tire ( trying to make sure transmission would shift ) vehicle didn't ride bad tho ( especially having low right front....

4rh issue - service ride control light is on..... Iv read that this can be caused by a bad -air pump - shock and or many others.....

So my plain of attack atm is - do home made alignment and get steering wheel and wheels going same direction -

Figure out weak brakes

Code reader ( get codes ) then clear codes and see what comes back..... We have had this thing on jacks - I reconnected the battery before I let the jack down and rolled it off the ramps - maybe I triggered some of the codes???

Any idea on the weak transmission shifts? Two transmissions built by two different people do this same thing? Buddy has 30 plus years in the business....
Iv been friends with my buddy for years - he has never lied to me and he has always done right by me.... He charged we nothing for the rebuild of the transmission. The rebuild was part of the purchase....

Any chance this is all related? Any advice is greatly appreciated

 

In regard to the transmission:

The 4L60E family of transmissions use a fairly basic type of adaptive learning (compared to more modern transmissions and controllers).
GM refers to this as "Shift Adapts".
The PCM will alter the transmission line pressure via an "Electronic Pressure Control" solenoid.
The amount of line pressure is a major factor in terms of how the shifts feel (more pressure= firmer shifts and vice versa).
These shift adapts use data like: Throttle position, engine speed, Air Con. on/ off to create shift feel by varying line pressure.
The PCM creates the shift adapts when the vehicle is new, when a PCM is replaced/ reprogrammed, and some other situations.

For example; the PCM is programmed with parameters such as: how long the shift out of first gear and into second gear should take.
After the PCM has it's collected data, the shift adapts will be created.
Afterwards; lets say that wear and tear has made the 1st to 2nd gear change take a longer time compared to the data the PCM is accustomed to...
After a good amount of time, the PCM in this situation will try and speed up that shift by increasing the line pressure.

When a transmission is replaced; these shift adapts should be cleared/ erased...
So that the PCM can compare the current data (not the previous data from the old transmission) to a given parameter of data that is deemed acceptable by the programming on the PCM.
It is possible that the replacement transmission could become damaged as a result of not clearing shift adapts.
After a decent amount of time using the replacement transmission... the PCM will eventually change how it is varying the line pressure from the current data.

If the shift adapts are not cleared; the PCM will assume nothing has changed and have the new transmission try to behave like the last one.
Note: if there is a mechanical or hydraulic problem with the transmission; the transmission may behave differently than the shift adapts should dictate.

If a 4L60E transmission has issues and is removed from the vehicle...
The replacement transmission will behave the to an extant like the old transmission unless the shift adapts are cleared.
The PCM does not know that the transmission is not the same unit as before.

So this is the first thing I would recommend along with ensuring the ATF level is full (after the engine is up to operating temp. with the engine running in park).
It is also always a good idea to measure line pressure with a mech. gauge installed at the line pressure tap.

 

Regarding the brakes:

Generally when the brake pedal is soft with the brakes not working/ slowing the vehicle down...
There is a brake fluid leak or air in the system.
It is common to get air trapped in the ABS pressure manifold after a brake job that did not properly bleed the brake calipers and ABS pressure manifold.
This will produce an ABS and / or a brake warning indicator.
If there is no sign of brake fluid leaking outside the vehicle... the ABS pressure manifold/ solenoids may have an internal leak.

This truck uses one combined control module for both the ABS and Traction Control. The module is referred to as the E.B.T.C.M. (electronic brake and traction control module). GM uses the terms "Traction Control" and "Stability System" interchangeably.

Most of the Caddy Escalades used a hydraulic power brake booster that operates off of the power-steering pump.
Normally if the hydraulic brake booster is not working the brake pedal will feel too hard to depress and the steering wheel will be a struggle to turn.

Yes I would find a way to scan codes in the EBTCM... cheap PCM/ engine code readers usually will not read these codes.
The DTCs in this module will be shown as "C" codes (as in Chassis) as apposed to "P" codes (as in Power-Train).

You may also have some "B" codes (Body Control Module) and "U" codes (Data Line codes).

 

Man that's good information. I thought having the battery disconnected for the last week or so would have cleared the computer of any previous transmission issues ....... I'm guessing that's not the case? How do I go about clear the shift adapts...... Do I need to take it to a dealer or can a high end snap on scanner do it?.

 

Thank you for the info sir. I'll get codes today!

 

Here are the codes I could pull with my cheap scanner.... I'll get the snap on scanner in a bit and check it out More.... p0135 p1120 p1220 p1516

 

P codes are only from the PCM...

The first code pertains to the circuit for the engine control oxygen sensor for cylinders 1,3,5,7 (Not the catalyst monitoring oxygen sensor).

The 3 other codes all pertain to circuits for the "drive by wire" system (Throttle-body, and Throttle-pedal).
More commonly than not, the actual TAC module of the throttle-body goes bad (has internal shorts).
When these trucks had this failure under warranty; GM decided that they wanted the PCB in the TAC module replaced as apposed to replacing the entire throttle-body.
GM never sold just the PCB to the public... if yours is bad; you need an entire throttle-body.
Rarely I have seen the Throttle-pedals go bad... almost never the wiring or controller (unless someone messed with it).

 

You are going to need to find someone/ some where with a proper scan-tool to look at the C codes.

 

As far as the codes go I may have triggered those..... I know on normal drive by cable ( throttle cable vehicles ) one thing we do is disconnect the TPS and drive the vehicle to see if there is changes in shift patterns.... It's actually worked a few times ( we have found the tps is bad and not the transmission but no codes for tps )...... This truck is drive by wire - I attempted to disconnect the tps and drive the truck but when I did the truck went into limp mode and wouldn't rev past 1500 rpms..... I reconnected right away and everything returned to normal..... I have sence cleared codes and drove the truck for 20 mins both highway and town and the codes have no returned.....

Brake update - after driving today I found the front brakes hot ( I mean the wheel it's it's was hot to the touch ) but the read brakes wear ice cold..... Fronts are working - rears are out....

Also something I noticed today - this truck has 20 ich wheels on it..... factory calls for 17s..... I noticed this after I noticed the speedo off ( or it feel / appears to be off to me ) I wonder if this is some of the shifting issue... Thanks for the info guys!

 

Yes sir. I plan on getting that done my buddy has a snap on salorus code reader..... Worse come to worse a dealer here in Oklahoma City said 145 and they guarantee to find all issues. Thank you sir!

 

Update .... I don't know if I mentioned but I work for the man who rebuilt my transmission I do (R and R) I'm paid 150 minimum and can make more based off how many transmissions I get in or out....... Anyway I'm telling you this so yall might understand why I do what I do..... I live 2 hours away ( Oklahoma city to Muskogee ok ) I can actually make the trip in about an hour 45......
So up date..... We dropped the pan and turned up the pressure control solenoid.... I drove the truck home tonight and now 1 to 2 is mushy but the rest of the shifts are firm....... Truck actually drove pretty decent on the highway ( in town I thought it was gonna have all kinds of alignment issues ) on the highway man this thing was sweet..... As crazy as it may seem ( my daily a 2003 Cadillac CTS 3.2 - with all the o2 sensor bad ) the truck seems to have gotten better fuel mileage.....


No codes came back....
Still gotta figure this out before this thing eats the transmission again..... I'm gonna try and get it into a dealer asap.

 

On a 4L60E... if all shifts seem normal except for the 1-2 shift.
It is possible you have a leak in the 1-2 accumulator piston/ seal/ bore.
Depending on the 1-2 accumulator piston and spring orientation... it can make a soft 1-2 shift or an extra firm 1-2 shift.

 

Is this what your talking about?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/153876356693

My builder disabled this ( pulled springs and put a jammer nut/bolt inside... ) He said it would stiffen up the shifting. I also had it off today so I could tighten up the pressure control solenoid I didn't see anything out of wack..... Iv seen him do this before and it never hurt anything..... What's ur opinion?

 

Yes, the parts in that hyperlink make up the 1-2 accumulator.

Eliminating or blocking the 1-2 accumulator is almost unanimously consider to be a BAD idea (there are a few exceptions to this; like having a very high stall-speed torque-converter: 5,000+ RPM).
Blocking the 1-2 accumulator is something that you would usually find done by someone who could not figure out how to properly firm up the 1-2 shift, does not understand orificing, accumulation, or servo function.
In most situations; blocking the 1-2 accumulator will do unnecessary harm/ damage to the transmission.
I am not saying your transmission builder is not very good; but he should probably refresh his education of this transmission before modifying it in any way.

Anyway; even with it blocked, it can still have an internal leak/ cross leak.
If that is not the issue; then the intermediate servo/ seals that engages the 2-4 to shift into second gear may be worn/ have a leak.
Honestly though... who knows... I am afraid to think about what else what possible modified incorrectly in this transmission.

Sorry

 

Here is a strange issue .... Temp gauge for transmission started flickering in town today.... Going between 0 and flicker back to 160..... Did it several times.... I wounder of I have a issue with transmission harness.... I'm not gonna tell you my builder is the best.... But I will tell you I trust him.... Iv done (removal and install work for him for over 8 years off and on ) iv never had one of my personal installs from him come back..... Well I did have a 4r10w that gave quite a bit of trouble but it had been through 4 transmission shops before us..... He gives a 3 year warranty on everything and iv actually seen transmission go out just past warranty ( 3 mths after ) and he still repair it for parts cost...
Like I said I have never seen a returned D.O.A transmission. I have seen other people attempt to install then self's and bust the pump.... I'm gonna look into the accumulator issue. I don't want you to think I'm unappreciative or disregarding your opinion. I do respect what you have to say. Btw cel came back on again - o2 sensors..... Ugh.

 

Years ago I had a truck ( 1992 ford f150 5.0 / e4od ) I had this for years ..... One day I took off across town got some tools and equipment - went home ( turned off truck ).... Realized I had forgotten something - restarted and backed out the drive way.... Went to take off and the truck would not shift...it was like instant ( fine one moment and not the next... The only way it would shift is - dragging rpms out and then blipping the throttle and then it would shift ( hard ) and I mean hard.... However this only worked for 1st 2nd and 3rd.... We check - we traced everything.... 3 different transmission shop told me the transmission needed rebuilt.... No burned fluid but everyone said new transmission..... After about a month of this i bought a new transmission 😱😱😱..... Did not wanna change it 🤣...... A buddy ended up rolling his truck and I talked him out of his computer ( just a shot in the dark ) ( something told me it wasn't the transmission ). Anyway I changed the computer and boom everything went back to perfect......
This truck never threw a code - never showed any other issue other then not shifting.....

Here is my question - can the computers be swapped around in these trucks or do they have to be reprogramed ( buddy has the same truck as me and we wear talking about swapping and seeing what happens..... I understand it would have to be from the exact same truck and system.... Does it need reprogramed?

 

:-)

As I had said in my last post; I am not saying that your transmission builder is not very good.
I do not know the person.
He may be a great person, a great automotive technician, a great businessman or employee, he may be great at diagnosing, repairing, and rebuilding transmissions.
I do not know... and that is because I do not know the man.

Many, many transmission builders diagnose, repair and rebuild transmissions with great success.
Modifying transmissions is an entirely different story.
The success rate for people who do not specialize in "Performance Modification" is incredibly low.

The only thing that I do know; is that he made a modification on a transmission that 95% of people who specialize in modifying this transmission would not do under the current circumstances.
I do not think anything bad of the man.
Transmissions that are this plentiful and popular, have new updates, new parts, and new techniques constantly coming out.
My only opinion of the man; is that it would be a good idea to re-educate himself on this transmission before performing modifications.

I mean no offense towards himself or to you.

 

I hear ya.... I can't say if it's right or wrong .... All I know for sure is I have seen it work in other applicants..... If the transmission does burn up again I'll probably see about having a different shop rebuild it..... What's your thoughts on the computer swap idea?

 

I am definitely not the best person to answer this...
However, I will tell you what I do know.

Most of my experience with PCMs that old; is from my time at General Motors (using GM tooling for programming and configuration).
Any time a PCM was changed, it of course had to be programmed... but part of that was entering the VIN of the vehicle into data (other modules in the vehicle will access the VIN over the data line; especially the VCIM and BCM).
If someone simply unplugged 2 PCMs and switched them between 2 vehicles... The VIN would not match, both the VCIM and BCM would see this and put the theft deterrent system into action.

Depending on which model and year PCM, you have... You should be able to do what you are thinking... but would have to use software like HP-Tuners to do the setup/ configuration.
There are several guys here that use aftermarket software and scanners/ programmers like this everyday at their business.
I personally stopped using HP-Tuners, years ago.
Most every vehicle that I do serious modifications to will have had Holley modules installed by me.
The vehicles that are mostly stock... I am able to still use the GM MDI and TIS2 systems for any programming needs.

Good luck!

 

Yea I was kinda afraid of that.....

Iv never had one good experience with dealer or any other shop ( doing diag )..... I always get told it's something it's not ( like the ford transmission ordeal ).... Every transmission shop is gonna wanna sale me a rebuild - every dealer is gonna want the same but possibly wanna say the computer is causing the issue..... IDK what to do....