When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok so I'm building my first 4l80e and truth be told I think I'm in way over my head. But at least the trans was free so if it grenades I'm not out much. Anyway I bought the CK Performance shift kit and am having a lot of problems with following there directions, the kit is missing parts, and they won't answer there phone or return emails.
The big issue is with dual feeding the something or other. So there is supposed to be a plug that gets tapped into an oil hole in the case. Well I didn't get a plug with my kit. So I just used a pipe tap and a brass plug in the case and plugged the hole that way. After I finished this I re-read the directions and it says that the center support needs to be installed first then the plug put in. So does that mean my pipe thread plug won't work? My thread in plug is not touching the center support.
Also on the separator plate the picture they give in the directions on what holes to drill is very confusing. Am I correct in assuming that you only need to drill 3 holes larger for firmer shifts? It lists those 3 holes but then shows other holes with circles around them but dosnt say if they also need drilled.
I know there is virtually no chance of this transmission actually working. I'm sure I have it entirely screwed up beyond repair at this point. But I guess you gotta start somewhere. If it doesn't work I guess I'll get it next time.
Ok so I'm building my first 4l80e and truth be told I think I'm in way over my head. But at least the trans was free so if it grenades I'm not out much. Anyway I bought the CK Performance shift kit and am having a lot of problems with following there directions, the kit is missing parts, and they won't answer there phone or return emails.
The big issue is with dual feeding the something or other. So there is supposed to be a plug that gets tapped into an oil hole in the case. Well I didn't get a plug with my kit. So I just used a pipe tap and a brass plug in the case and plugged the hole that way. After I finished this I re-read the directions and it says that the center support needs to be installed first then the plug put in. So does that mean my pipe thread plug won't work? My thread in plug is not touching the center support.
Also on the separator plate the picture they give in the directions on what holes to drill is very confusing. Am I correct in assuming that you only need to drill 3 holes larger for firmer shifts? It lists those 3 holes but then shows other holes with circles around them but dosnt say if they also need drilled.
I know there is virtually no chance of this transmission actually working. I'm sure I have it entirely screwed up beyond repair at this point. But I guess you gotta start somewhere. If it doesn't work I guess I'll get it next time.
If you installed a pipe-thread plug into the case that does not interfere with the center-support sitting in its proper place... then the plug is fine.
Post photos of what you ate doing, so we can confirm that things are in order.
Ok I tried to upload a picture last night but it gave me an error. Something about a moderator needing to look at it first. I took some more pictures this morning. I'll post them here in a second. If the mods approve the post from last night the one pic will be a repeat.
Do I only drill the 2nd 3rd and 4th holes? Or do I also drill the others that are circled?
I think I have the gaskets backwards. But not sure.
This is the brass plug I used. Just used a pipe thread plug with a square head. I ground it down and put a slot in it so I could use a screwdriver to install. Used red Loctite. It does not extend inside the case at all. It does not touch the center support.
One more thing. So I got all the parts back inside the transmission after watching hours and hours of Youtube videos trying to figure out how it goes back together. I finally got it. But the one video I watched said that when it's all back together I should be able to turn the input shaft by hand. Is that true? Because mine doesn't move by hand at all. Both the input and output shafts are locked up solid.
Last edited by Phobos84; Sep 13, 2020 at 03:47 PM.
One more thing. So I got all the parts back inside the transmission after watching hours and hours of Youtube videos trying to figure out how it goes back together. I finally got it. But the one video I watched said that when it's all back together I should be able to turn the input shaft by hand. Is that true? Because mine doesn't move by hand at all. Both the input and output shafts are locked up solid.
Unless the shift-shaft/ lever is in the park position...
You need to be able to turn the shafts by hand.
Also for the shift firmness instructions; just drill 2nd, 3rd and 4th as instructed.
That is possible, as are several things... you may have no acceptable end-play.
Hopefully you are using an ATSG 4L80E Rebuild-Manual/ download.
I always hate to say it, but DIY transmission rebuilding (first time, and with modifications) success rates are like 10% or less.
That's better odds than I thought. Like I said I gotta start somewhere. This trans was rebuilt by a shop and installed in a 2009 Express van. The van's frame cracked on it 20k miles later. So the trans on the inside is like new. All I wanted was to do a shift kit with an FTI converter and swap out my 4l60e. But this shift kit is way too much. I should have done the Transgo instead.
After looking at it again I have no idea why it's so tight. I can't get anything to go in further. All the snap rings went in and the two hollow bolts lined up. So I guess I'll pull everything back out and try again.
#1 make sure the sun gear is chamfer side down
#2 make sure the direct drum is seated all the way into the IM clutches. a machinist's rule will read 2.30" from the face of the last snap ring to the face of the direct drum. rotate the output shaft clockwise and bounce the splines into position by blowing air into the IM clutch feed (the hollow bolt in the center support)
#3 make sure the forward drum is seated all the way down. you can look into the 3-4 accumulator cavity in the case and you'll see about a 50 thou gap when it's seated all the way. from the input speed sensor hole you shoud just be able to see the face of the FWD drum.
before you put the 4th gear piston and clutches in, set the overrun and input assembly into the forward. with a pump gasket installed on the case and the thrust selective sitting on the over run you should be able to lay a straight edge across the case face when the pump rests and have a rough gage as to how the pump will fit.
you can absolutely do this. it takes patience and practice. thankfully the 100's of thousands of hours of engineering work to make this awesome beast are already complete---thanks to fine men like @vorteciroc
Thank you so much for the help. I think my biggest problem is vocabulary. I don't have a clue what any part is called or what they do. That being said I've rebuit industrial gearboxes for years but this is my first car transmission. I had no idea before buying this shift kit that I would have every part out of the case. That's kind of why I wanted to use this transmission so I wouldn't have to rebuild it. Anyway I'm not putting this in the car until Christmas time. So I have lots of time to figure it out. But I'll mess with it more tomorrow and let you guys know what I found out.
Thank you so much for the help. I think my biggest problem is vocabulary. I don't have a clue what any part is called or what they do. That being said I've rebuit industrial gearboxes for years but this is my first car transmission. I had no idea before buying this shift kit that I would have every part out of the case. That's kind of why I wanted to use this transmission so I wouldn't have to rebuild it. Anyway I'm not putting this in the car until Christmas time. So I have lots of time to figure it out. But I'll mess with it more tomorrow and let you guys know what I found out.
There are some good transmission rebuild threads on this forum with good photos of components/ parts...
Hopefully some of these can help you pick-up a little more of the vocabulary.
There are far more 4L60E rebuild threads than 4L80E threads...
I would try and look through some 4L80E threads primarily (along with a download of the ATSG manual).
After that, maybe look at some 4L60E threads also... just to see some more photos of tools and transmission parts (even though they would not directly correlate with the 4L80E)
#1 make sure the sun gear is chamfer side down
#2 make sure the direct drum is seated all the way into the IM clutches. a machinist's rule will read 2.30" from the face of the last snap ring to the face of the direct drum. rotate the output shaft clockwise and bounce the splines into position by blowing air into the IM clutch feed (the hollow bolt in the center support)
#3 make sure the forward drum is seated all the way down. you can look into the 3-4 accumulator cavity in the case and you'll see about a 50 thou gap when it's seated all the way. from the input speed sensor hole you shoud just be able to see the face of the FWD drum.
before you put the 4th gear piston and clutches in, set the overrun and input assembly into the forward. with a pump gasket installed on the case and the thrust selective sitting on the over run you should be able to lay a straight edge across the case face when the pump rests and have a rough gage as to how the pump will fit.
you can absolutely do this. it takes patience and practice. thankfully the 100's of thousands of hours of engineering work to make this awesome beast are already complete---thanks to fine men like @vorteciroc
all we have to do is put the legos together!
Doug,
It actually really takes mostly people like yourself...
Very highly active here on the forum, hungry to learn from others and to self teach, eager to help others to learn the things that you have, so that the cycle can repeat.
It also takes people like MaroonMonsterLS1...
An intelligent individual with the ability to pick things up/ learn very easily; and went from being a novice to essentially a pro (with these GM transmissions), via the desire to learn from others and self teach (just like TruckDoug).
I personally have always been a very knowledge hungry person... and found that I could teach myself most anything.
I have so many interest, and crave more knowledge everyday all day long!
What I did not ever expect... was that I would also enjoy sharing all that knowledge.
I just wanted to say thanks, to each and everyone of the people here on the forum that come here to help others gain knowledge... and of course to gain knowledge yourselves!
Their are far too many member here to name... but thanks to you all!
i thought of one more place that could cause a bind against the pump.
a practiced hand will always grab the input and overrun assembly vertically. you can actually move the drum out of position one friction and have it still lock the roller clutch.
it should look as so from the side.
with a little perspective note the pressure plate is almost flush with the bottom of the bevel on the splines
i thought of one more place that could cause a bind against the pump.
a practiced hand will always grab the input and overrun assembly vertically. you can actually move the drum out of position one friction and have it still lock the roller clutch.
it should look as so from the side.
with a little perspective note the pressure plate is almost flush with the bottom of the bevel on the splines
Dude you're awesome!
I haven't had time to mess with it. I came down with a nasty cold so I haven't been doing much. I'm feeling better now so this weekend I'll be messing with it again.
Yup... I could see people overlooking this type of mistake on any transmission.
I am glad you shared this for the DIY guys that do not really learn the ins and outs of a transmission...
just enough to get by, and complete their unit.
Sorry I went so long without giving an update to this. I got frustrated and just had to walk away for a while. So this weekend I decided to get back to it. I pulled it all back apart. I followed all the steps that truckdoug laid out for me. After a long night I got it back together. Well at least the guts of it. I still have the valve body to put on. But I can now turn both the input and output shafts by hand with the pump torqued down.
Thanks again everyone. Now I have to figure out a tail housing adapter so this will bolt into a C4 Corvette.
Good deal, I have rebuilt several, and have one that still binds up, been apart 3 times, lol. Dont reuse the center support bolt and 4th clutch bolt, replace with new (although I have, lol)
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Problems with CK performance 4L80e shift kit 
