4l60e burnt overrun clutches question
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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4l60e burnt overrun clutches question Is it possible the sonnax hd 2-3 shift valve is the cause of my burnt overrun clutches?
my rebuild lasted over a year of towing and abuse but not anywhere near as long as I had hoped. It's not like I make over 300hp so I'm not sure where I went wrong.
Some of my rebuild is documented on here somewhere if anyone is wondering what all I put in it I'd day pretty much everything minus the smart shell...
thanks for any tips on what or where to look.
my rebuild lasted over a year of towing and abuse but not anywhere near as long as I had hoped. It's not like I make over 300hp so I'm not sure where I went wrong.
Some of my rebuild is documented on here somewhere if anyone is wondering what all I put in it I'd day pretty much everything minus the smart shell...
thanks for any tips on what or where to look.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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Yeah I did use d3 quite a bit towing. The sprag your taking about is the one that meshes with the over run clutches? It slips one way only by hand but maybe under running load it could be slipping?
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Iowa
Omit the #6 check ball and try again.
Should solve the overrun issues.
I can say with 100% certainty that you can drive a TBSS around with a blown up sprag using D3 and the sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve. For months. And not really change your driving style haha
The overrun clutches have more capacity than you'd believe.
One thing I do recommend, is try to start in D3, rather than get up to speed in D4 then while you're at speed moving the shifter to D3
Should solve the overrun issues.
I can say with 100% certainty that you can drive a TBSS around with a blown up sprag using D3 and the sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve. For months. And not really change your driving style haha
The overrun clutches have more capacity than you'd believe.
One thing I do recommend, is try to start in D3, rather than get up to speed in D4 then while you're at speed moving the shifter to D3
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
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And to add basically what happened is I parked it got lunch and went to put it in reverse to leave and it didn't go anywhere kinda made a noise and I went to park then R again and nothing just revved, I put it in D and had nothing but 321 had forward movement.
I pushed it backwards and drove home in 3.
It shifts 123 quick and firm under power and runs all up through highway speeds and has lockup but put it in D and it has nothing just free revs and put it in R it free revs.
Disassembly yields nothing so far except the debris and welded together overrun.
I pushed it backwards and drove home in 3.
It shifts 123 quick and firm under power and runs all up through highway speeds and has lockup but put it in D and it has nothing just free revs and put it in R it free revs.
Disassembly yields nothing so far except the debris and welded together overrun.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
Omit the #6 check ball and try again.
Should solve the overrun issues.
I can say with 100% certainty that you can drive a TBSS around with a blown up sprag using D3 and the sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve. For months. And not really change your driving style haha
The overrun clutches have more capacity than you'd believe.
One thing I do recommend, is try to start in D3, rather than get up to speed in D4 then while you're at speed moving the shifter to D3
Should solve the overrun issues.
I can say with 100% certainty that you can drive a TBSS around with a blown up sprag using D3 and the sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve. For months. And not really change your driving style haha
The overrun clutches have more capacity than you'd believe.
One thing I do recommend, is try to start in D3, rather than get up to speed in D4 then while you're at speed moving the shifter to D3