They're not converters for us regular guys, they're what the 'pros' use.

 

Locking up a converter at 2000 rpms then going wot while still locked would be dog **** slow.

Going wot in a manual at 2000 rpms would be dog **** slow.

Imo I think a converter upgrade and possibly a gear change would do wonders.

Possibly other issues if it's 550 rwhp but only trapping 125 mph

Here is my setup, nothing sluggish about it....

 

Sorry folks, not yet a single recommendation for the brand and model TC with a 2000 rpm lock up and which will still let my LS7 idle in gear, brakes on. I would like this thread to lock up with that simple recommendation.

 

FTI Performance, phone: 866-726-8358, ask for Dalton... Tell him I referred you.

 

You've gotten the recommendation more than once.
You just don't like the answer.
You need to just buy a 5 or 6 speed, sell your auto to someone who understands how things work, and move on.
Your auto is not a manual. It's not going to be a manual. It's not supposed to be a manual.
The TQ converter does work that a clutch CAN'T physically accomplish.

Just get a 3rd pedal and move on. I feel sorry for any converter company that gets you as a customer, it seems like the writing is on the wall, you'll be forever displeased.

 

Dalton is the man! Answered all my questions and was very honest and forth coming about his products.

https://getyarn.io/yarn-clip/0c00410...6-ea70b404999d

 

@FTI Converters
Sorry Dalton, here you go buddy.
Good luck

You need a converter that stalls enough so that buddy can get his 400 rpm 3psi oil pressure idle that sounds like a brick thrown into a dryer.
But you also need it to behave exactly like a manual car does.
Forget everything you know about making a converter that drives smoothly, and is actually fast when you want to step on the loud pedal.
Just build a converter that feels like a clutch

 

The OP has probably put his 'dilemma' post on other car forums too and probably received all the same answers as on here and refuses to believe that you can't get an auto that acts like a stick.
If you want one that acts like a stick shift then get a stick shift. And even with a stick, how the front end jumps with blipping the throttle is gonna depend on what gear you're in. If you're cruising along in 2nd gear in city traffic and you blip the throttle, the front end is gonna jump because of the the higher rpm of the powerband because of being in 2nd gear and because of the torque multiplication of 2nd gear. If you're cruising along in 4th gear and blip the throttle, the front end is not gonna jump as much because you'd be at a lower portion of the powerband and because of no torque multiplication of a 1:1 tranny ratio.

 

OP: having scanned this thread and looking at what you are looking for, its not out of the realm of possibility even though it may not make sense to others. biggest limiting factor is going to be cam/gearing playing nice with however tight the converter is made. I saw gearing(3.73, probably 28" tire) but I didn't see cam specs. Do you have those? gross valve lift and duration at .050 is what i'm looking for.

-Dalton

 

You are the keyboard warrior, you like reading your own posts, all 3,759 of them. You tell me what I already know and you spout irrelevance. Please cease with your assistance. MaroonMonsterLS1 your sarcasm was also very helpful. I am not an idiot. I am a retired mechanical engineer. I did have an auto with my previous cam, it used the stock 1400 rpm stall converter. I was happy with it for 12 years and 130,000 km, other than the effort needed to hold it still at stop lights. The stock converter will not let my new cam idle according to my engine builder so I wanted information on a TC which will let it idle and then lock up shortly after getting moving. This is the only LS forum I belong to, which I joined just to see if if there was an answer. As usual I find the usual unhelpful denizens of these forums saying the most.

I now have a contact in Dalton who I will try and contact. Thanks to 5.7stroker and vorteciroc for that, cheers.

 

Thanks for responding Dalton, saved me a call from Perth Australia. The cam is a proprietary grind by John Lloyd who is in fierce competition with other engine builders in Oz and the USA so he would not give me the specs. It has 315/35 x 17 tires or 25.7inch overall diameter. Suffice to say it dynoed at 553 rwhp from 6500 to 7000 rpm which corresponds closely with the 124mph trap speed for a 3,700 lb car with driver, given by the standard formula. It may have a mph or 2 more given that the 60 foots were 2.0 - 2.1 sec. It idles at 1000 rpm in drive right now brakes on. It has 1-7/8 inch primary long tube headers, a mafless tune, upgraded valve train and nothing else. The dyno sheet is attached, I manually added the torque figures after calculating them. You are right about my desires "not making sense to others". I have zero need for quick launches and would only ask for full throttle after 4000rpm on the street, same as if it had a manual. It is the very mushy part throttle response which just makes noise right now with a 3000rpm (maybe slightly higher) stall converter. That is where the tach instantly goes to, I was not given a spec sorry. My thoughts while driving would be that a 2000 rpm lockup would allow it to idle in gear brakes on hard of course. I hope you can help. Cheers.

 

Do you have any info on the current converter you have? brand, part number, pump/stator configuration? Since I am kind of shooting in the dark without cam info I could use that info and your feed back on it as a baseline to recommending something different.

 

Sorry I cannot be of more help. The cam would be close in spec to the 4th cam shown on these Crane specs as the peak power of 7000 rpm corresponds to mine as does the description. Also my builder said the LSA was too tight for a blower to be used which also corresponds with the 112 deg LSA shown. The current TC spec is unknown. It was just a generic locally built converter for which a 3000rpm lock up was specified. Cheers.

 

We'll try to make due with that. One other thing i was curious about, You keep saying "lock-up" on the converter being at a certain RPM, Are you referring to actually turning on the lock-up clutch inside the converter? Or just the RPM at which the converter becomes most efficient and slipping is to a minimum? It appears what you call being locked up is actually converter stall or "efficiency" rpm but rather than assume i would rather clarify first.

 

Am I asking too much to have the TC lock up with no slipping at only 2000rpm? I only need lock-up at part throttle, that is to say not enough throttle to cause the trans to kick down. If it needs to slip at full throttle it doesn't bother me because I would never apply full throttle below 4000 rpm in any case. It is the feel of a direct connect with the throttle at lower rpms on the street that I want. Cheers.

 

Nice Denny! You doing ok? Lmk next time you are in my woods heading to kings island and I’ll meet you and Bobby up there. The wife and I have season passes. Now we just need Dalton to develop a torque converter for the 4l80e that works with both naturally aspirated setup and turbo setup so that I don’t have to buy another converter when I go twin turbo next year. Yeah I know...not possible lol. I’ll just buy the SRLS46391 now and run NA this year so that I can pull the 4l60e out and get it under the knife and pop the 4l80e in. The PMLSD4 series with triple disk for the 4l80e when for the turbo’s go in. It’s all good! Sure I can run the 4l60e until I get the twins but then I only have to drop the trans once instead of twice. What fun is that lol?

 

It is not a popular configuration (except for in a few specialized racing classes) but...

The clutch assembly (Fly-Wheel, Pilot-Bearing, Friction-Disk, Pressure-Plate, and Hydraulic Throwout-Bearing) from a Manual-Transmission can be mated and used with an Automatic-Transmission.

The clutch would have to be released when the vehicle is stopped/ slowing-down to a stop...
Then the transmission would do all the shifting on its own (without using the clutch).

On another note... If anyone here needs a Turbocharger repaired or rebuilt at this time...
send me a message (as I am making a run of this now, and only do a large batch twice a year).

 

Asking too much? No, anything is possible... makes sense? no, that's why I'm asking for clarification on what you are calling "lock-up" because my version,and the version of "lock-up" for everyone else here. APPEARS to be different from what you are perceiving as lock-up...

We call lock-up applying the clutch inside the converter, this is essentially just like a manual clutch with a 1:1 ratio(no slip). if this is in fact the type lock up are wanting then as was mentioned in post #2 you will need a triple disc lock up converter, any stall setting will work, and a tuner to tune the lock-up function as you desire.

Now what I BELIEVE you are calling "lock-up" is actually what I described before as converter efficiency or minimal slippage at a certain RPM for that power input. IF that is the case then this is really easy and a simple tight 9.5" or 10" blower type converter will be the ticket as it comes together very early in the RPM band and will offer the minimal slip at a lower RPM you desire.

 

Cheers, so what is the actual part number and spec TC that I can order for the tight blower type converter? Cheers.

 

trabots You didn't answer his question...