Dalton said: "Now what I BELIEVE you are calling "lock-up" is actually what I described before as converter efficiency or minimal slippage at a certain RPM for that power input. IF that is the case then this is really easy and a simple tight 9.5" or 10" blower type converter will be the ticket as it comes together very early in the RPM band and will offer the minimal slip at a lower RPM you desire."

I said "Cheers, so what is the actual part number and spec TC that I can order for the tight blower type converter? Cheers." Meaning, I want a TC with "minimal slippage at a certain RPM for that power input". Question was answered, I don't need a "triple disc lock-up converter" but want "a simple tight 9.5" or 10" blower type converter".



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SRLT3380 For an early model 4L60(input has the nipple with an o-ring)
SRLS3380 for a late model 4L60E(input has the o-ring in between the input and stator splines)

(didn't see year of the car talked about and I'm unsure about Holden's following the same years as US cars.) Vortec might be able to offer some help there if you are unsure.

 

My VZ Ute was the last year the 4L60E was used before the VE went to the 6L80E so I presume it is the later one. I will contact your company and order the SRLS3380. Thanks for your help Dalton.

Dalton, I just went to the FTI website to order and the lowest stall for the SRLS3380 was 2800 rpm or choose "custom stall". What do I tell them you recommend? Cheers.

 

Use the SRLS3380 number. The stall rating is for an average/generic setup so no need to be worried about that number in your case.

 

I've got a T56 so I don't really have a dog in this hunt but after reading through this entire thread let me just say that if I were in the market for a converter Dalton would be my 1st and last call based on how he handled himself.

 

Thanks again Dalton. Will order.

 

Thanks speed freak! Just doing my job.

PS nothing wrong with a little clutch kicking either, my personal vehicle happens to be a manual. while admittedly slower than auto, it makes the drives to and from work more enjoyable.

 

Dalton, Thank YOU!!!

You are taking care of business as you always do!
We appreciate it!
I try to send everyone (that falls into the category of torque-converters that you offer) to FTI or directly to you.
I hope this gets you a few "actual customers" and not just guys kicking tires!

Thanks again for putting in the time and help that you do here!

 

I have received and had installed the TC sent to me in Australia by Dalton. I can report that it is indeed tighter feeling with improved connection to the throttle pedal. The rpm flare from low revs seems up to 500 rpm lower. An improvement but still has me wanting a manual. I used to race formula cars (Formula Atlantic called Pacific here) in the early 80's and so that is why I place so much importance on that pedal connection. There is no way you could be fast with a TC on a road course without having that throttle connect to balance the race car. All good, thanks Dalton. A pic of my 'El Camino' and a rwhp dyno graph of the very cammed LS7. What an outstanding motor! Compare that engine's weight and power to the Ford equivalents with their DOHC largeness.

 

Nice looking vehicle !!!

 

From your first post I'm sure every experienced person here figured you likely had a poor quality converter. Before I knew much about converters I (made the mistake and) bought a 3600 stall TCI converter for maybe $450. The car had very sluggish throttle response and I assumed that was the price to pay (no pun intended) for a 3600 stall. Later I bought a Yank 3600 (for $800) and it was night and day difference as the car felt tight even with very light throttle. Currently I have a triple disk 3600 from Circle-D ($1400?) and it is also very tight.
To define "tight" I tested it - I can accelerate from a stop to 60mph while keeping the tach under 2000 rpm in about 10 seconds. (So briskly - the trans shifted from 1st through 4th). With the old TCI I'm not sure I could cross an intersection under 2000 RPM.
I just drove a Merc SL55 and the throttle response is similar to my car with the 3600 stall. (A AMG CL55 felt more sluggish.)

You kept asking for specific converter model numbers, but premium converter companies like FTI (or Circle-D) will custom build a converter to your needs, cam profile, gear ratios, tire size, etc. That is why FTI kept asking for those.
Also, you don't need a triple disk. And you will not want to lock it under 2000 RPM as with your aggressive cam, the car will buck. I have a similar cam and cannot lock up under 2300 RPM.

 

FTI didn't custom build me a TC, they sent me one from their catalogue, I have no complaints, it is a quality TC. Interestingly, I also have a modded SL55 with well over 600 rwhp that is the equal of the ute in trap speed despite being 200kg heavier. It has instant response to the throttle especially as I have a fixed rather than clutched SC pulley along with the stock TC. It is far more fun to drive than the ute, and in fact the ute with its first mild cam with the stock converter was also more fun to drive than it is now, despite having 100hp less rwhp. My lesson learned is if I want a really fast fun street car with an auto trans (my SL55) and no interest in 1/4 mile ETs, get the power with forced induction and stock TC, rather than a wild engine build. If the latter is still what you want, get a manual trans. As I plan to keep the ute forever, it will no doubt have the stock cam and TC put back in but with the addition of a blower OR leave the cam and install a manual trans. The way it drives now is not fun at all. I want to be able to chirp the tires with the throttle. I hope that all makes sense and before I get criticized again, I do know about cars from my 53 years of trying to go fast (I am 69). I also raced Super Gas for a season in the late 80's, competed in the 1982 Australian Grand Prix, and was 1981 WA Formula Ford champ. My very first motorcycle was an H1 Kawasaki, then an H2, then a Z1, many many Corvettes bought and sold, a 1969 Ferrari Daytona which I drove from Denver to LA in 1978, hitting top speed outside of Reno. I had the roof removed as one of the early spyder conversions before selling. So I am a braggart as well as an ex-mechanical engineer. Thanks again Dalton, this is not a critique of your TC.

 

I do think we are all on the same page now. You certainly are a very accomplished car guy and racer!
Besides try to help the original OP, I try to post info the might be useful to future Google searches. We frequently have posts about people considering some cheap Ebay converter and we try hard to point them in a better direction.

Beautiful Merc BTW. I have been looking for an AMG project car. A non-turbo CL55 just didn't have modern power levels. The SL55 I looked at last week had not been well maintained. A don't think I want to get a CL65 with the V12 engine; sounds too expensive to repair.

 

I also have an E55 which is also awesome even stock. They are so cheap now compared to new price but beware, they all need to have the suspensions replaced with normal springs and shocks. $10k Oz bucks to fix a stock corner on an SL55. Also they have electrical gremlins, lots of CELs. You need a Merc based OBD reader if you want to save money at the stealership. Plenty of go fast stuff available. Absolutely go with a AC evaporator rather than a bigger heat exchanger for the inter cooler water. The 55s are the way to go as just a pulley change and tune will amaze. The later atmoed 63s and the subsequent turbo cars are much more expensive to up the power on.

 

Not necessarily... The boost pressure of a Turbo-Charged engine can be doubled, tripled, Etc... for less than 10 dollars (US).

I do not recommend doing something like this... as Power-Train damage will most likely occur.
However it is possible to do inexpensively.

 

Well, we are way off the original topic, but its your thread.
I was indeed looking for a AMG63 that had suspension problems with a plan to replace the hydraulic corners with coil-overs for about $4000 (US) versus $3000 to replace the hydraulics per corner. However I have now befriended the owners of two Detroit area JYs that specialize in Mercedes and BMWs. They suggest keeping the hydraulic system as they can procure a few used by still functioning parts. I'll keep looking for the right car.

 

If you only trapping 125 with a ls7 you have other issues than the trans.

 

Got any other pics of the vehicle in post #49, front view and back view ?

 

Yes should be as easy as with a super charger, but from what I have read the turbo guys with Mercs spend more money than the older 55's for the same results. It is the increased cooling requirements and ECU tuning of both which need money spent.

 

It seems that the advice early in this thread was spot-on; a manual was really the only way to accomplish your desires with the given setup. But, at least by eliminating the possibility of an unknown sloppy converter making things worse than they needed to be, now you know for certain.