Would you look at that...spent a bunch of time and money making paragraph long posts...just to end up at what was said within the first 10 posts
*shocked face*

Put a manual in it if you want something to drive like a manual

 

Trabots, while I obviously can't refund the freight If you do end up swapping to the manual I'm happy to refund the converter for you if you would like to return it back to me. I appreciate you giving the converter a fair shake. As the others have said, manual was just the best option to achieve the feel you are looking for.

 

So folks, my apologies that my long posts were annoying to some of you, you don't have to read them you know. The number of words I have written here are miniscule compared to the total words in a couple of detractors' thousands of indicated posts. Please stay off this thread at least 2 of you.

I have now had a Tremec Magnum close ratio 6 speed installed. There are still some electronic gremlins to be fixed but I now have throttle response. Dalton, I will be taking you up on the offer of returning the TC which has been used for maybe 200km max. Thankyou, you are a champ. Thanks to the rest of you for your interest.

On the electronic issues my ute would be the same drivetrain (excluding my LS7) and ecu as your 2006 GTOs and Camaros. Has anyone else done an auto to manual swap on one of these cars? I would be appreciative if you could share how you dealt with the ecu issues such as getting the speedometer calibrated and the cruise control operating. Cheers.

 

For anyone interested here in Oz, I have a very recently rebuilt and much strengthened 4L60E transmission (and TCI 2800stall TC if needed) for sale. wstobart@bigpond.com

 

 

Thanks for the pics, beautiful machine !!!

 

we did not have a camaro past 2002 until 2010
so, to answer your swap question...it will depend on your ECM
p01
p59
E38
E40
E67

drive by wire?, 24x or 58x

all of these will matter to answer your question on the swap wiring.

HP Tuners will be able to correct the speedo in any of these setups, and it may be able to correct the cruise control also depending on setup

 

This is a sticky over at the dead LS1GTO.com website: https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/how-t...ite-up.658114/

 

BTW, we have very similar cars, excepting the ute bed of course. Close in power, I also trap in the mid 120's though I have a 1.5 second 60' time. So I think I'm in a position to interpret what you were asking for originally: were you talking about is the speed at which you have to be moving before the stupid converter will lock up when at part throttle/ cruising. It's changeable in the tune, mine currently is 40mph and will be getting changed to 35mph when I find a new tuner. We had tried leaving it at stock but was way to low speed and it caused nasty surging of the car (same thing you will encounter with a stick shift and your cam size btw).

Surging: When in gear (stick shift) or converter locked (auto) at a low enough speed and rpm for the loping of the camshaft to cause the car to lurch forward/coast/lurch forward/coast/ because of the rpm increases/decreases from its own loping. Makes all your tolerances in your drive shaft joints, rearend gears, and axle joints clunk and rattle like a baby shaking its favorite baby rattle.

I contemplated putting in a switch to control lockup manually but decided against it. Just too easy to screw that up and destroy something expensive and besides I'm sure I would have just been annoyed at the surging I no doubt would have been fighting.

 

Thanks for the reply. You are correct about the Camaro. I just Googled 2006 Camaro and of course Google just came up with pics they called 2006 Camaros. In any event my ECU is an E38 bit I can't supply any other information at this time.

 

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the 2004 GTO came with a different ECU than my ute and the transmission is an older Tremec.

 

You wouldn't be aware but a lot has been changed on the body from stock. I removed the boy racer chin spoiler at the front that came with the 'SS' and same with the flared sills which I replaced with the non 'SS' ones. The whole rear bumper was replaced with a modified after market unit. The front factory grills have obviously been swapped for the stainless mesh. Also I had the rear fenders flared at great expense to accommodate the 315 wide MTs. The stock fenders will only allow 275s to fit. There is a Kaaz diff centre also and Koni shocks with stiffer shorter springs and a front brake/disc upgrade. Glad you like it. You were very close to getting the ute as a new El Camino at the same time you got the GTO.

 

A torque converter cannot be altered by the tune as it is not connected electronically to anything. It's operation is purely hydraulic and dependent on only engine rpm which allows slip until a certain rpm (lock up rpm) is reached at which point the transmission input shaft is turning at engine speed supposedly.

 

The Torque-Converter Clutch is being electronically controlled.

The Time and RPM that Lock-Up occurs, as well as Lock-Up being ramped in via PWM.

This is done via the TCC Apply Valve-Train (and Solenoid), and the TCC Regulator Valve-Train (and Solenoid) by the PCM.

 

Thanks for educating me, I was always under the impression the lock up was purely hydraulic. I presume that a 'full lock-up TC" is one with a clutch and I presume that is what most modern TCs are now. Again thanks again vorteciroc!! And my apologies sticks-n-stones.

 

Yes converters actuate lockup hydraulically. But those hydraulic pressures are controlled by the electronic solenoids and valves vortec described.

There is lock up converters, and non lock-up converters,i'm not sure what would be different in a "full" lock-up converter that you are referring too?

 

I am old school Dalton but did sixties cars have clutches in the TCs? Regarding full lock up TCs I thought that meant nil slippage after a certain rpm and non lock ups would be still slipping and relying only on the vanes. Thanks again for you help. I will not send the TC back as it is needed in the auto I need to sell here. Cheers.