Here is the deal, I have a 04 4l80e 2wd, that came out of a 3/4 van. I just want to do a Basic Rebuild, and do some cost affordable upgrades. What would that plan look like? Has close to 200,000 miles, it drove to the shop before it was pulled and sold to me. But here is the kicker, it may of been ran low on fluid, how much or how long not sure, I was told this after I paid for it. lol. It's just sitting here not doing much with it, so I will use it or sell it after the refresh.
I'm aware of the "dual feed" mod, which I will have to look up again on how to do it, check for VB leaks, which I will be making one like Moon's, but after that I'm not sure. I did start on a 4x4 4l60e, that was put on the back burner some time ago.

Thank you.

Stampede.

 

In to learn about this too.

 

-New Boost Valve. Preferrably a Sonnax Unit with O rings
-Vacuum test the valve body. 50/50 wether you will need an AFL valve or a TCC valve. I shoot for 15inHg minimum on those two. The shift valves are usually OK at 10 or 11
-Rollerize the output. Just use a 4r70 pump bushing in place of the stock 80e case bushing. Drive the bushing "proud" of the case about .090. Then use a th350 pump bearing and shims to adjust endplay
-Borg Warner High Energy Clutches for the fwd/int/dir. Stock tan borg warner for the overrun and overdrive
-Bushings. Replace them. Pump, center support, fwd drum. These are almost always wiped out.
-Inspect the fwd drum and direct drum sealing ring areas for grooving. If you find grooves, throw the drum away and get a replacement. If they are grooved...it's because the bushings are ****. If fwd is bad, the fwd drum bush, and both stator bushings are probably cooked. If direct drum is bad, the center support bushing is cooked and the endplay is probably whack
-Use molded pistons
-dual feed
-Drill the separator plate to get desired shift feel.
-For stock or low HP builds, leave the accumulators. You'll appreciate them.
-Set rear band endplay. I personally target .100"
-New low roller
-New OD roller
-Inspect closely the int sprag and race. May need to replace.
-I always spend the extra money and get new solenoids, epc, and internal harness. Peace of mind for myself and customer. However, I'm sure there are 100 guys that will say they just clean it and reuse it with no issues. To each their own.

There are probably a few things I've skipped over, but that's what I rattled off early in the mornin

 

that reminds me. I was getting complete internal electronics kits, all ac delco stuff for like $129 this time last year

now they are $200+ for delco and ~$100 for rostra branded

i see jake's kits coming with rostra switches and harnesses now. anybody have any issues with the rostra stuff?

 

I went with the rostra internal harness and AC delco for the actual electronics. I replaced it all. TCC, EPC, manifold, both speed sensors. I found that rock auto had the best price on the electronics and ebay had the best price on the harness. I didn't get the shift solenoids because I knew those were coming in jakes D3 brake. And then I found out that the EPC isn't really used in jakes D3 brake doesn't even get hooked up lol. I could have just taken the stock one, shaved the center section for the better flow as his instruction advises, and just used that.

 

the last rostra harness i got didnt have the locking tab on the EPC plug and the whole thing looked rather skimpy compared to the OEM one. I sent it back.

 

As OEM harnesses (Both internal and external) become less and less available...
I have been rebuilding them... I keep the plastic connector bodies, but throw-out the terminals and wires.

The new Metri-Pack 150 terminals, Micro-Pack 100w terminals, and wire cost under $5 per harness if you already own the crimpers and extractors.

 

Availability of normal rebuild parts has been problematic lately. We can't even get some of the normal solenoids, clutches, filters, bands, etc that we usually get and we have buying power that many shops don't have.

 

I bought a $25 4l60e to 4l80e harness from akaso_tech on ebay and not one single wire out of the 11 was pinned correctly lol. Repined in myself in 5 minutes, but whomever is making them for $0.01 an hour is obviously just randomly pinning the wires in random cavities.

 

I rebuilt/ restored a large amount of these harnesses this past year as parts-availability has been crap!

I would suggest that any of the pros here consider doing to same for yourselves!
Give it a try... Good Luck and Have Fun!