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I was looking up how to air check all your teflon seals for input shaft and reverse drum. The input drum on its own when air checking its holes are all good and no leaks. When i put it on the pump to air test it with the pump. I can get the 3-4 to engage but air is coming out of the foward hole and the other clutches apply. Same when i check the forward it will apply but air comes out the 3-4 hole. Im guessing your not suppose to have any leakage to the other pump holes, and the teflon seals are not sealing properly? The reverse drum on the pump works just fine and no leaks there.
Are you using one piece teflon seals or scarf cut?
Be certain you do not have an input shaft and stator tube mismatch. If you do, you'll have terrible cross leaking
Are you using one piece teflon seals or scarf cut?
Be certain you do not have an input shaft and stator tube mismatch. If you do, you'll have terrible cross leaking
I am using the same input shaft and stator. They were both tight fit with the original seals. took a bit of force to pull the reverse drum or input drum off the pump. but i didn't find the test for them till i had it all back together, and didn't get to test how it was with the original seals.
They are the step cut seals. They didn't fit that tight and almost flush with the shaft where they seal. So wasn't sure if under pressure things change with them or not. I was gonna leave my old ones in there since they looked fine but since i had these would try them out.
The scarf cut are fine.
Yes, they seal differently with oil and when under pressure.
They just air test poorly usually.
Get liberal with the trans-gel behind and in the gap of the rings, and slather some on the outside of them, then try again with 40-60psi
Scarf cut won't cause an issue.
I always prefer the one piece, but for the average DIY guy that buys a kit...the scarf cut are almost mandatory because they won't have the tools or know how to properly do the one piece
I had this same issue and I reached out to MaroonMonsterLS1 and he had the same advice for me.
They eventually started to seal and check for me. They came in the OH kit as well, but I have the tools to resize so I will be using one piece from now on.
But, the information on matching stator and input shaft is gold. There was a start of change over when they went to the reluctor and input shaft speed sensor. Def something to consider if mix and matching parts from other units
The scarf cut are fine.
Yes, they seal differently with oil and when under pressure.
They just air test poorly usually.
Get liberal with the trans-gel behind and in the gap of the rings, and slather some on the outside of them, then try again with 40-60psi
Scarf cut won't cause an issue.
I always prefer the one piece, but for the average DIY guy that buys a kit...the scarf cut are almost mandatory because they won't have the tools or know how to properly do the one piece
Thanks i will try that. Was gonna put the solid ones in to be sure, but you never know unless you try something out first.
I have a question so I was pushing about 40 psi through pan rail exhaust hole after installing my band and servo to see it move and it's was moving fine on third time blowing air in air started coming back at me through the capsule hole and through some hole behind it too is this normal I'm scared I might have messed up one of those check valves. Please need advice asap thanks guys.
I have a question so I was pushing about 40 psi through pan rail exhaust hole after installing my band and servo to see it move and it's was moving fine on third time blowing air in air started coming back at me through the capsule hole and through some hole behind it too is this normal I'm scared I might have messed up one of those check valves. Please need advice asap thanks guys.
I air test 3 times all with 40psi of air.
1st each component after the initial assembly, (except the L/R or P/R piston) including the 2-4 band because this is where I set up the band clearance.
2nd after building the pump I air test the reverse input drum/ input drum combo all stacked on the pump. I use an old reaction sun shell that broke off for a support fixture.
3rd When air testing my units after assembly, I use an aluminum air test plate I made from a piece of 1/2' material. I can then check the P/R, L/R piston. Then I move onto the the reverse input drum, 3-4 O/R and forward. When testing overruns you will get a leak at the forward hole just like when testing the drum itself. If you use a pair of channel locks you can watch the input shaft turn when these get (except for 3-4's) applied. I then go to the 2nd & 4th portion of the 2-4 band.using the same pair of channel locks to make sure the output shaft stops turning when the band is applied. This is where it gets a little tricky. I use 2 sources of 40PSI air. I apply the 2nd portion of the band Yes with Teflon sealing rings you get a leak through the 3rd circuit. When using D-rings in the servo it usually does not leak there. I then apply air to the 3rd release hole and make sure the band releases.
I never test through the 4th exhaust hole. I do know it will apply 4th and if blocked will inhibit 4th apply. Just don't remember if you have a leak at 3rd release if you do check there.
Here is the last page of the Sonnax Sure cure kit installation instructions, It shows all the different holes and how it should air test.
Last edited by Tranzman; Jan 12, 2023 at 09:50 PM.
Reason: grammer
I always prefer the one piece, but for the average DIY guy that buys a kit...the scarf cut are almost mandatory because they won't have the tools or know how to properly do the one piece
I was always curious.
When you watch youtube rebuilders, they use fancy, super expensive metal ring sizers.
Is there any difference between a super expensive resizer and a plastic one i use?
Can it do any harm?
The feeling i have when i install the drums it feels preety tight.
I was always curious.
When you watch youtube rebuilders, they use fancy, super expensive metal ring sizers.
Is there any difference between a super expensive resizer and a plastic one i use?
Can it do any harm?
The feeling i have when i install the drums it feels preety tight.
Thanks
I have used both myself. I have a Kent-Moore tool for the 4L60E input shaft rings. When it came time to upgrade for the 300mm shaft, I bought an aftermarket aluminum one. It work just like the Kent-Moore, You just have to be very careful with it. The aluminum is far less forgiving than a plastic one. I have a Ring Buddy set for the 4L80E. Although they are not dealer level service tools, they work quite well for the occasional use technician/DIY'er. After using any ring sizer I set the part with the new rings into the stator/drum or what ever they fit with for 20-30 minutes.
Thank you for the advice guys I changed my rings to solid style cuz I didn't wanna worry about it. I tore the trans down again I decided to put new steels in, I was going to reuse old ones but they aren't that much for a set so what the hell. I have acouple more questions what is this new drum differences see the notches? The drum on the right is my new one and is supposed to be a direct replacement from Ac Delco. Old one has that notched out section does this make a difference? Was also wondering if I should use the wave plate instead of Belleville cushion plate?
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4l60e air checking seals question. 
