Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Only problem I’ve had with that drum is the snap ring popping off. I’ve had it happen at high rpm with a new drum, snap ring and release spring. I’m thinking this may be due to centrifugal apply? I don’t know, but every high rpm or high power build I do know gets the snap ring tack welded in place by my tig machine. When I say high rpm, I’m meaning over 7000rpm. One case was 7800rpm 383 stroker

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

For anyone reading this because they are interested in forging ahead with a 4l60, I want to reiterate as I’ve said before, it’s absolutely imperative that you keep some torque management in the tune. It’s a must. Not an option. If you dont, you better like breaking transmissions and rebuilding/pulling them.

bbond105

How are Trans-Brake Springs different from stock springs and where would someone be able to get them? I would guess that they are stiffer.

vorteciroc

When using the Reverse-Input Drum in it's Stock intended manor... High-RPM centrifugal-apply is not a huge issue.

I have no issues at all with the Reverse-Input Drum Return-Spring Cage, when the Lock-Ring is installed Correctly.
Shown in the image below:


For High-RPM or Trans-Brake applications, I will use a Snap-Ring like in the image below:



Also, Maroon Monster is not using the Reverse-Input Drum for ONLY the Stock application.
He is doing something special with the Reverse-Input Drum.

I do not know if He would want me to say anything about it...
So if He wishes to SHARE the information, I will leave it to him.

Or I can Spoil it and Snipe his Post, LOL!

Nah.

vorteciroc

The Springs used in this situation, are much Firmer.

I believe Dana (PBA) sells a Spring set for Trans-Brakes...
Try Him first.

bbond105

Thanks vorteciroc. I have never installed a 4L60 trans-brake, needless to say I didn't know the reverse drum would use stiffer springs. I have learned so much from you that I may need to start sending you tuition.

MaroonMonsterLS1

bleed hole and stiff springs are what I was referring to for needing a larger feed hole in the separator plate. This applies to stock hydraulic application high rpm stuff.
Tac welding the spring there is fine.

post #20 from vortec is prettymuch spot on to what gets done for high rpm applications

as for the other bit of fun vortec is discussing.
It has been tested and we are dealing with the hiccups that arise with any new design.
Nothing I'm ready to share with the world yet, but when I am...I'll make a fun post

2BFAST

iTrader: (11)

Interesting. Can you point out where exactly in the corner you are talking?

THIS

MaroonMonsterLS1

if you've ever built a th400 or 4l80e and put a bleed hole in the direct drum

same concept here

vorteciroc

I think you should send some of that FUN stuff over here, to be tested on the Transmission Run-Stand and the Chassis Dynomometer.

RobPH

Is .93 too big for the forward feed hole sorry I know this thread is older just need to know I drilled it out and don't know how if it was a good idea did the transgo SK kit and went and drilled this extra feed out to .93 along with others transgo suggested in the kit stock 5.3 Silverado truck 2001.

bbond105

.093 should be okay. The forward pack is not a shifting pack, so it won't affect shift timing. I would think at the very worst you may get a harsh engagement when going from neutral to drive. This is what I drill mine to.

You really should start your own build instead of jumping onto old threads. With your own thread all of the info for your build would be in one place. That may help with the advice you get.

RobPH

Haha yeah sorry man I've tried to I feel like I get replies faster if you or a few others are already in it plus half of the topic I'm dealing with is at some of these other threads my apologies thanks for reply.
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RobPH

So again sorry to keep asking you but you confirmed that .93 is what you drill your fwd feed hole to? Also when you check your clutch clearances do you check them to the spec clearance wet or dry do they expect them to be swelled with fluid when installing to specific measurement? Mine are all in spec after swelling in atf.

bbond105

I check them dry. It's okay wet also, the clearance will increase after the trans is run through its gears a few times.

vorteciroc

Generally the clearance specifications that are published, are done so dry.

RobPH

So maybe go to the tighter end of spec and was thinking of using the sonnax hd 3+4 backing plate which makes it hold 7 frictions with 6 .95 steels sucks tho I would need to buy a new set of steels because I have the .106 steels in the 3-4. Any thoughts on that?

bbond105

I don't know what your clearance is, you don't have a thread for me to look back on.
I wouldn't change the steels if your clutch clearance for the 3-4 clutches is around .025" minimum and .040" maximum. A 6 clutch set up will be more than fine it you have addressed all of the 3rd gear hydraulic circuit leaks.

RobPH

I thought it's supposed to be .60 to .85? Is .25 to .40 your suggestion?

bbond105

Yes .025 to .040 with a band clearance of .060 to .070.